I believe with the trans brace and the front subframe it should be another 20-21 pounds of weight reduction on top of the 24 pound U brace weight reduction. I still need to install the tubular bracing along with a ton of bushings.
Regarding the front bumper beam I have a perrin front mount intercooler that replaced it.
. It's minimal but still something. 
Main deciding factors of u frame removal was the fact that we purchased a GMC Yukon xl as a family car and that's what my family will be in 90 percent of the time even after I get this car on the road. The other factor is since I purchased the tubular front subframe I figured it would stiffen up the front more enough for me to remove the u brace. Once the u brace was removed I can confirm it does minimal of nothing for chassis stiffening and is there just for insurance purpose. I still am considering doing some triangulation bracing of front corners to sub frame once I get the engine back in.
Yes I've seen the turn buckle combo and have considered it for trunk and did think it could be a possibility for front end depending how motor sits. Do you still have the undergrad under yours? That's the main reason I was thinking about figuring out a bracing so I can mount the under tray back under the front
I definitely suggest a carbon fiber driveshaft. I got the Driveshaft Shop 1-piece Carbon Fiber driveshaft. They are usually $1,099-1,199 but you can sometimes find them on sale for ~$899-999. Jordan at @DefinedPerformance should be able to hook you up.
5000-7000 rpms screamed by in half a heartbeat. I even moved my idiot-light down from 7000 to ~6250 rpms just as a reminder. I can't remember the exact numbers, but there was a guy back in the day that did a couple Dynojet runs before and after a CF DS install and saw an increase in both horsepower and torque, but especially torque.
It's also a really easy mod. I did it in the driveway with 4 jackstands. Make sure you have a large oil drain pan, because about half the trans fluid will come out when you remove the DS from the trans. I recommend draining and replacing all the trans fluid during this mod. Use either Subaru EXTRA S gear oil or the best AMSOIL you can find. My trans guy recommended a Motul Gear 300 GL-5. (Usually GL-4 is what should be used in synchromesh transmissions. I assume that because mine has been lightly modified that this is why he says to use GL-5. I'll have to look around and see what EXTRA S is rated at.)I definitely suggest a carbon fiber driveshaft. I got the Driveshaft Shop 1-piece Carbon Fiber driveshaft. They are usually $1,099-1,199 but you can sometimes find them on sale for ~$899-999. Jordan at @DefinedPerformance should be able to hook you up.
Not only is it about 1/2 weight of the stock 2-piece unit, but it's also a reduction in rotating mass of the drivetrain, rather than just sprung weight. Revs climb a LOTTT faster. In fact, the first couple times I took it out for a spin after installing the CF driveshaft, I slammed the rev limiter in first and second gears.
Lastly, since the CF flexes ever so slightly, it tends to absorb a lot of fast transients in the drivetrain, such as the BANG! you often get when side stepping the clutch or slamming gears at WOT. There used to be a couple articles around on other forums (links are dead now) about how a CF DS helps (slightly) reduce stresses on other parts of the drivetrain, such as the rear diff.
Yeah I think I'm going to remove them and flip them since it came with the Unabomber Sexy Rearend kit I bought from TIC. I wasn't aware of the difference between the sti and WRX differential mounts and it appears that only the GD sti had the solid mounts for the USDM.
Thanks for the input and yes I'm planning on doing a transmission fluid change when I do the drive shaft. Actually spent a couple hours looking at sites trying to hunt down the best price for a drive shaft since I'm trying to finish all the drivetrain, subframe and bushing upgrades before placing the engine back in.
