HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
TD Boost error is all I really need. :tup:
Burst and Continuous are just other names for integral and proportional.
Burst and Continuous are just other names for integral and proportional.
3 port ebcs not sure what brand? Boosting issue?
- Thread starter STIMULA8
- Start date
Ok cool just did a log, looking at it now. It's about 48degrees out right now
I was able to replicate the jumping/hesitation but I don't see it in the log anywhere. I let it warm up from a cold start, then didn't notice I wasn't logging so car was warming up started logging again, sat at idle for a while, then went around the block, then at a nice open road without traffic I did a pull. Wot at 4K rpm in second, not exactly 4K but close and it pulled hard and great! Then shifting into 3rd is when it jumped and hesitated. And I was able to do this a couple times throughout the log, almost a 15min log.
In the log I accidentally added not noticing, exh. Gas that doesn't read, and forgot to add Boost. But added boost target, damnit. I'll upload in a min to google docs and Google spreadsheet
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I was able to replicate the jumping/hesitation but I don't see it in the log anywhere. I let it warm up from a cold start, then didn't notice I wasn't logging so car was warming up started logging again, sat at idle for a while, then went around the block, then at a nice open road without traffic I did a pull. Wot at 4K rpm in second, not exactly 4K but close and it pulled hard and great! Then shifting into 3rd is when it jumped and hesitated. And I was able to do this a couple times throughout the log, almost a 15min log. In the log I accidentally added not noticing, exh. Gas that doesn't read, and forgot to add Boost. But added boost target, damnit. I'll upload in a min to google docs and Google spreadsheet
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George what's your email? I'm posting the share link. From the looks of it looks like my fuel pump is taking a shit on me. I also added fuel pump duty 
? Line 8827, tps is 100, and fuel pump maxed out at 100 through the pull and that's when I had the WOT hesitation. When I baby the car she's fine. I haven't looked further into it. It's a pretty long log. Lol any help would be appreciated
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? Line 8827, tps is 100, and fuel pump maxed out at 100 through the pull and that's when I had the WOT hesitation. When I baby the car she's fine. I haven't looked further into it. It's a pretty long log. Lol any help would be appreciatedSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
My email is brodix32@gmail.com
I will have a look at the log at work tomorrow. :tup:
Also there is nothing wrong with your fuel pump... Pump duty cycle is the pules width that throttles the pump speed and at WOT it should be 100% full speed. To check fuel pump and/or injectors, you want to log injector duty cycle.
I will have a look at the log at work tomorrow. :tup:
Also there is nothing wrong with your fuel pump... Pump duty cycle is the pules width that throttles the pump speed and at WOT it should be 100% full speed. To check fuel pump and/or injectors, you want to log injector duty cycle.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Does this car have a 16 bit ECU or a 32 bit ECU? It is a 2004 wrx right?
I can see the hesitation in the last run and it is glaringly obvious. I just don't know what the root cause is. Your DAM is a clue though. It starts out in the log @ 4 and then drops to 0 just after the first run. I don't think it has anything to do with the wastegate because the boost seems smooth. Something else is doing this but tracking down DAM (IAM) issues can be difficult if knock is not the cause. There are many things which can cause DAM to fall besides knock.
If you could, can you please get me one more log, only this time log the following...
• Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) (A/F Sens 1 Ratio)
• A/F Correction #1
• A/F Learning #1
• Air Intake Temp
• Boost
• Calculated Load
• Dynamic Advance
• Dynamic Advance Multiplier (DAM) (IAM)
• Engine Speed (RPM)
• Ignition Advance (Primary Ignition)
• Ignition Timing (Total Timing
• Knock Active Switch
• Knock Correction (Feedback Knock)
• Knock Learned (Fine Knock Learned)
• Throttle Position
I can see the hesitation in the last run and it is glaringly obvious. I just don't know what the root cause is. Your DAM is a clue though. It starts out in the log @ 4 and then drops to 0 just after the first run. I don't think it has anything to do with the wastegate because the boost seems smooth. Something else is doing this but tracking down DAM (IAM) issues can be difficult if knock is not the cause. There are many things which can cause DAM to fall besides knock.
If you could, can you please get me one more log, only this time log the following...
• Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) (A/F Sens 1 Ratio)
• A/F Correction #1
• A/F Learning #1
• Air Intake Temp
• Boost
• Calculated Load
• Dynamic Advance
• Dynamic Advance Multiplier (DAM) (IAM)
• Engine Speed (RPM)
• Ignition Advance (Primary Ignition)
• Ignition Timing (Total Timing
• Knock Active Switch
• Knock Correction (Feedback Knock)
• Knock Learned (Fine Knock Learned)
• Throttle Position
Thanks so much man! I will try to log the next possible moment I drive the car. I'm not sure which bit ECU. I don't have the whole skill of reading logs wrapped around my head yet. So glaringly obvious is different to me haha. Well I am gunna be doing a lot more research as to how to read logs better now that I can actually set the right parameters.
I also talked to Cobb! My screen needs replacement because it's starting to fade out and get dim, it has always sat inside the car, and moisture got to it while I left her plugged in one night. The ECU lost connection screen is burned into it haha. Thank you again George!
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I also talked to Cobb! My screen needs replacement because it's starting to fade out and get dim, it has always sat inside the car, and moisture got to it while I left her plugged in one night. The ECU lost connection screen is burned into it haha. Thank you again George!
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HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Thank you for the quick log... it helps me. :tup:
I do notice that your Air Intake temperatures are very high especially for this time of year. Those temperatures correspond to the reductions in timing, so the first issue is your Air Intake Temperatures need to be sorted out. Either employ all of the prescribed engine bay heat reduction methods or get your self a cold air intake or a cold air box.
There is still some timing reduction in other areas that is unaccounted for and I can not track that down with just a log, so there may be other issues besides the high intake temps.
I would like to prescribe a proper boost leak test, under pressure, of the entire intake plenum. Also I would like for you to fill the tank from a different gas station of a different brand just to rule out bad gas.
As for reading the log, in this case I am looking for simple reduction in timing and to do that you simply compare 'Primary Ignition', 'Dynamic Advance' and 'Ignition Timing'. Generally if your total timing (ignition timing) is lower than your base timing (primary timing), then you have an issue because the ECU is pulling more timing than the base, which is expected to be a safe level under normal conditions. To understand it better, the ECU derives it's timing by adding the following compensations together... Primary Timing + Dynamic Advance + Fine Learned Knock + Feedback Knock + Other Compensations such as timing effected by air temp, coolant temp, and more. When timing reduces below base timing (primary timing) your DAM is effected. That is what is happening here and if you notice, your DAM is now hovering around "2" and it should ideally be "16". For a detailed explanation of this, you can read this thread, 4th post... http://igotasti.com/vBforum/showthread.php/213-Newbies-Guide-to-Logging
My only other observation is that there is no FBKC or FLKC being registered and I don't believe this because of all of the timing being removed at times but I suppose it is possible.
I do notice that your Air Intake temperatures are very high especially for this time of year. Those temperatures correspond to the reductions in timing, so the first issue is your Air Intake Temperatures need to be sorted out. Either employ all of the prescribed engine bay heat reduction methods or get your self a cold air intake or a cold air box.
There is still some timing reduction in other areas that is unaccounted for and I can not track that down with just a log, so there may be other issues besides the high intake temps.
I would like to prescribe a proper boost leak test, under pressure, of the entire intake plenum. Also I would like for you to fill the tank from a different gas station of a different brand just to rule out bad gas.
As for reading the log, in this case I am looking for simple reduction in timing and to do that you simply compare 'Primary Ignition', 'Dynamic Advance' and 'Ignition Timing'. Generally if your total timing (ignition timing) is lower than your base timing (primary timing), then you have an issue because the ECU is pulling more timing than the base, which is expected to be a safe level under normal conditions. To understand it better, the ECU derives it's timing by adding the following compensations together... Primary Timing + Dynamic Advance + Fine Learned Knock + Feedback Knock + Other Compensations such as timing effected by air temp, coolant temp, and more. When timing reduces below base timing (primary timing) your DAM is effected. That is what is happening here and if you notice, your DAM is now hovering around "2" and it should ideally be "16". For a detailed explanation of this, you can read this thread, 4th post... http://igotasti.com/vBforum/showthread.php/213-Newbies-Guide-to-Logging
My only other observation is that there is no FBKC or FLKC being registered and I don't believe this because of all of the timing being removed at times but I suppose it is possible.
Thanks for such a good response George! I feel so much dumber now! Lmao, I understand though. It was around pretty close to 60 degrees outside! There has to be something going on.
I probably should I update the first post but i just upgraded the grounds from battery to fender wall, intake manifold to intake manifold, intake manifold to fender wall, I do notice the car responds faster
? the coils are getting their proper spark. Hmm, I just got a new AEM filter as well, it was the same dry one too, I think! Maybe the oiled filter can get heat soak from not being a dry paper filter? I will try to get a cold air intake, but I'll need to get a new fender liner because I don't want any water getting to it. Or possibly make a heat shield.
I always fill up at the same station Mobil right next to the Bills stadium! It's probably the most expensive in the area because of its location and the traffic it sees. I will get Sunoco by route 5. I did add Lucas gas treatment, when I was below quarter tank, and I then filled up.
I will get the fittings and caps and such to make a boost leak tester, because I am not paying somebody 75$ for a smoke and pressure test lol
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I probably should I update the first post but i just upgraded the grounds from battery to fender wall, intake manifold to intake manifold, intake manifold to fender wall, I do notice the car responds faster
? the coils are getting their proper spark. Hmm, I just got a new AEM filter as well, it was the same dry one too, I think! Maybe the oiled filter can get heat soak from not being a dry paper filter? I will try to get a cold air intake, but I'll need to get a new fender liner because I don't want any water getting to it. Or possibly make a heat shield. I always fill up at the same station Mobil right next to the Bills stadium! It's probably the most expensive in the area because of its location and the traffic it sees. I will get Sunoco by route 5. I did add Lucas gas treatment, when I was below quarter tank, and I then filled up.
I will get the fittings and caps and such to make a boost leak tester, because I am not paying somebody 75$ for a smoke and pressure test lol
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HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Sounds like a plan! :tup:
I took the time to make a pressure tester. I found a boost leak in the silicone coupling that the fmic connects to the compressor housing. I have an APS fmic. They don't seek replacement parts anywhere. I need the coupling it's two elbows making an "s" shape. It has a pretty significant hole and is torn up because I have a really bad hose clamp and not a t-clamp like I should. The holes in the ****ty hose clamp ripped the coupler and now idk how to find a replacement one. I did wrap the coupler in electrical tape and stuffed it on the compressor housing and tightened and boost leak tested again with pressure and soapy water and it is significantly less now. Car does run smoother. I also cleaned the IAC valve and both boost leaks and the dirty valve can cause the rpm drop when popping into neutral. It does throttle response better now I half fixed the leaks, because it is no where as near as bad now. And it does spool quicker.
I am still having the bogging/hesitation though. Would a pin hole leak still cause my issues? Hesitation on WOT and not pulling through the rpm band on WOT as well as EWG not working/opening because of this. Not getting up to spring pressure. It's not going past 1 bar.
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I am still having the bogging/hesitation though. Would a pin hole leak still cause my issues? Hesitation on WOT and not pulling through the rpm band on WOT as well as EWG not working/opening because of this. Not getting up to spring pressure. It's not going past 1 bar.
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11$ at Home Depot
Male compressor fitting
3" coupler end
The end cap to match
Threaded it very tight with a bunch of Teflon tape.
Drilled a 1/2" hole and threaded the compressor fitting very tight. No leaks
I like it because it's very cheap and I and use it instantly and not wait for silicone/epoxy to dry. Worked like a charm. Now I have a very useful tool!
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I'm upset because that was the only leak in the system.
I could hear air going through the turbo but none escaped.?
While pressure testing if there was a leak in the gasket from up pipe to turbo would you hear it? That would be my only guess why I'm hearing the air around the turbo area. Besides the ripped coupler.
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So just for the hell of it, I checked with the AP the CEL section...and I have the TGV low circuit codes 2 of them, I have TGV deletes, I bet they aren't turned off in my tune when I disconnected the battery! Would this cause me to go in limp mode? Because a while back I had my tuner flash me a revision of the map with the TGV code deleted, but now I'm thinking he just cleared it. This was in April. I was scheduled to get pro tuned and couldn't because I had a turbo oil line leak. That has been fixed and I never been back since. Not driving 6 hours for a couple dyno pulls...I'll take my chances on a local shop in buffalo.
So I have no CEL on my dash, but I have the two codes in my Cobb AP and when I clear them they will not go away!! This is my problem then? Boost leaks fixed, everything else checks out, besides my high load, high boost, and pulls in timing, which I believe is a tuning issue, since my TGV codes are still present
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So I have no CEL on my dash, but I have the two codes in my Cobb AP and when I clear them they will not go away!! This is my problem then? Boost leaks fixed, everything else checks out, besides my high load, high boost, and pulls in timing, which I believe is a tuning issue, since my TGV codes are still present
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