Blowin' Them Tires Right Off!
- Thread starter OldManSTI
- Start date
Wait, you want me to check the lug nuts every couple of hundred miles? I've NEVER had to do that on any other vehicle I've owned. Why would it be different on my Subie?
Spamby
Meat Product Toy
Ok. Here are few things
1: ninety lbs feet of torque is not good. This deviates considerably from the factory spec of 73.8. 66 is also noted as the correct torque on older gens.
You'd think 16-24 lbs feet of torque is too much but it an very well be enough to cause damage. Just because the stud doesn't snap off doesn't mean that damage hasn't occurred.
2: my charts are listing a stud of m12-1.25 as having a torque yield of 60-120 lbs ft. This depends on the type of metallurgy the stud has but is expressed in dry torque.
3: the fact that no one knows what the damn stud can withstand before deformation of the threads occurs. Everyone is pissing in the wind.
4: find me the stud manufacturer and the MTR and I'll give you the torque spec, tensile strength.
5: take note that [MENTION=4899]OldManSTI[/MENTION] has an issue with the nuts BACKING OFF CONSIDERABLY even AFTER torquing to spec and THEN torquing over spec.
6: #5 indicates a problem with lugnuts and/or the studs.
Having to check and recheck the lugnuts every few hundred miles when you shouldn't have to is ignoring the problem. Ignoring problems caused accidents and death. Have your wheels fly off at 80mph and find out how that crash test rating is.
Crank that puppy down to 150 and she's just fine. Lolol
7: get a dial or digital caliper and check the length of a new factory stud. Now check the length of your used and suspected stretched stud. If the used stud is longer then the darn thing is stretched. You could also check the diameter as most likely it has elasticized and deformed most likely becoming thinner in the middle.
8. Change the studs. Either yourself with some kind of press or a clamp press attachment. If you use a hammer then make sure you support the hub in such a way that it will not deflect when you start whacking. If they easily pop out with a gingerly snap of a five pound hammer, then you aren't doing any harm, no more force than what's being applied as you turn and slide sideways.
Pressing in the studs using a nut and washers DOES NOT harm the wheel bearing. In fact, it applies no force to the bearing at all as the force is localized evenly within the constraints of the washer diameter across the hub area at that point.
9. Take it to a shop and have them do it for a small fee if you're at all intimidated by any of the processes it should take in doing so. You'll get a warranty on workmanship.
10. Never use an impact on any lugnut ever again. Impact wrenches are notoriously unreliable with regards to how much torque they apply or are set to apply. Hand tighten the darn things and torque to spec with a certified and calibrated wrench.
1: ninety lbs feet of torque is not good. This deviates considerably from the factory spec of 73.8. 66 is also noted as the correct torque on older gens.
You'd think 16-24 lbs feet of torque is too much but it an very well be enough to cause damage. Just because the stud doesn't snap off doesn't mean that damage hasn't occurred.
2: my charts are listing a stud of m12-1.25 as having a torque yield of 60-120 lbs ft. This depends on the type of metallurgy the stud has but is expressed in dry torque.
3: the fact that no one knows what the damn stud can withstand before deformation of the threads occurs. Everyone is pissing in the wind.
4: find me the stud manufacturer and the MTR and I'll give you the torque spec, tensile strength.
5: take note that [MENTION=4899]OldManSTI[/MENTION] has an issue with the nuts BACKING OFF CONSIDERABLY even AFTER torquing to spec and THEN torquing over spec.
6: #5 indicates a problem with lugnuts and/or the studs.
Having to check and recheck the lugnuts every few hundred miles when you shouldn't have to is ignoring the problem. Ignoring problems caused accidents and death. Have your wheels fly off at 80mph and find out how that crash test rating is.
Crank that puppy down to 150 and she's just fine. Lolol
7: get a dial or digital caliper and check the length of a new factory stud. Now check the length of your used and suspected stretched stud. If the used stud is longer then the darn thing is stretched. You could also check the diameter as most likely it has elasticized and deformed most likely becoming thinner in the middle.
8. Change the studs. Either yourself with some kind of press or a clamp press attachment. If you use a hammer then make sure you support the hub in such a way that it will not deflect when you start whacking. If they easily pop out with a gingerly snap of a five pound hammer, then you aren't doing any harm, no more force than what's being applied as you turn and slide sideways.
Pressing in the studs using a nut and washers DOES NOT harm the wheel bearing. In fact, it applies no force to the bearing at all as the force is localized evenly within the constraints of the washer diameter across the hub area at that point.
9. Take it to a shop and have them do it for a small fee if you're at all intimidated by any of the processes it should take in doing so. You'll get a warranty on workmanship.
10. Never use an impact on any lugnut ever again. Impact wrenches are notoriously unreliable with regards to how much torque they apply or are set to apply. Hand tighten the darn things and torque to spec with a certified and calibrated wrench.
TK-421
New member
Totally 100% without a doubt agree.
Honestly most "shops" will just run them in with an Air gun with one of those highly inaccurate colored torque sticks. How do I know this? Because I see it done all the time. Nothing and I mean NOTHING beats a well calibrated torque wrench. A good torque wrench doesn't mean some $1000 dollar Snap On tech angle. It means it comes with a calibration sheet. I've seen some really nice Grearwrench brand torque wrenches that are click stop that come with calibration sheets for under 200 bucks.
But [MENTION=1507]Spamby[/MENTION] is correct 90ft lbs is way too much.
Don't be the guy to run em in with the Gun.
And don't trust torque sticks they aren't as accurate as you think they are.
Spamby
Meat Product Toy
Also, when storing your torque wrenches, leave them at the lowest setting. Don't torque something to 100 ft lbs and then throw it in the toolbox. Back the dial down to zero or 5 lbs and then put it away.
If you're at all suspect of the accuracy of the wrench, send it off to a local shop or an online vendor and have it certified. Small fee saves a headache down the road.
I hope [MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION] and I have covered this well enough so we shouldn't have any more discussion? If something's been missed or not clear, by all means speak up!
If you're at all suspect of the accuracy of the wrench, send it off to a local shop or an online vendor and have it certified. Small fee saves a headache down the road.
I hope [MENTION=4577]TK-421[/MENTION] and I have covered this well enough so we shouldn't have any more discussion? If something's been missed or not clear, by all means speak up!
Similar threads
