Build Help

jimoblivion

New member
I'm wondering which of the following builds would work best for me, I know it's preference but would like opinions. I'm currently Stage 1 OTS w/stock intake. My wife gave me the okay to spend as my birthday is Saturday. I got a $1500 budget and with the car I want to safely hit 330-350 HP. Below are two builds i'm looking at and I don't know if they'll get the desired results but this is where I'm going to start, it may take another year to complete but wanting to get off and away on this but my best friend wants me to take route 2 and route 1 is my direction w/the build.

Route 1: Cobb Downpipe, stock catback w/muffler deletes, Cobb Intake(no box), GrimmSpeed EBC, Perrin Recirculating BOV and a ProTune. ()

Route 2: Cobb Downpipe, Cobb intake (No box) Invidia catback + Protune. Next year add the EBC and BOV

Thanks in advance
 
Route 1 is the one i would go for. the best bang for your buck is going to be the down pipe. As to which down pipe you go with it really is personal choice as everyone will have there own opinion as to which one they like. Additionally instead of going GrimSpeed EBC try this one. Same thing just a lot cheeper. Also its the same EBCS i am running.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAC-Boost-s...ash=item4d38856945:g:mv4AAOSwfcVUJP1L&vxp=mtr if you want a plug and play connector for it you can purchase the connector though here.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/mt-series-090.html

Sumitomo p/n: 6180-2405

As far as recirculating Valve i do not have any input on these at this time. Mostly because i am still running the stock one and haven't gotten around to replacing it with a better one yet.

Finally, all premium members get the tuning service as part of the premium member ship. Gotta say [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] knows what he is doing and does a dam good job at street tuning.
 

jimoblivion

New member
The GrimmSpeed EBC I already purchased, I was going ahead w/route 1 and I let my buddy know and he made a good point, but I needed more opinions on it. The Cobb dp was the cheapest one I could find on NASIOC.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
I would go with Number 2 personally but I would also consider the cobb cold air box... The stock pipes are to restricting and the Invidia will get you closer to your goal and sound much nicer than deleting mufflers (which is also illegal in all 50 states). I would not do anything with the BOV. It will gain you nothing and is a complete waste of money. The stock valve is good for just about any setup except very large turbos and very high pressure. For 330 to 350 you will see around 20-22 psi of gauge pressure on a stage 2 setup so the stock valve is fine unless you are actually seeing issues.
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Also check out our vendors here. They offer great discounts. There is a "Request a Quote" forum in the vendors section.
 
First thing to do is look at the future of your car and see what your final vision of the car is going to be.

Meaning are you going larger turbo or/and e85?

If so then you need to decide on what turbo and of it's going to be stock or rotated. If rotated then realize all the money you invest in the stage 2 components or stock location turbo will be wasted since you have to re purchase all your intake and pre cat back exhaust components.

The decision on e85 or larger turbo will also affect your fuel system purchases. For example larger fuel pump and injectors then deciding if your going e85 compatible filter, lines and components.

If your staying stock location then you can do intake and DP even though the stock intakes are very efficient and won't be a major performance gain. Same with the blow off valve and catback their not going to net you as much bang for you buck compared to other components.

Catback doesn't require a tune so that can be added later on even after a protune.

I personally would do a downpipe with the extra bung already welded on. Then get a nice AFR guage since the down pipe has the extra O2 sensor bung. You can then data log from the AFR guage and obd2 port and try an of the shelf tune for the new down pipe or get a more affordable etune done since you will be able to data log and observe AFR numbers.

If you insist on a protune I'd say go down pipe, EBC and larger fuel pump. This would give you good bang for your buck along with the safety of having extra fuel and boost control.

You can also just go suspension route since $1500 in suspension products can make a world of difference in handling. Swaybars with end links, bushings, mounts, chassis stiffening and braces can make your car a whole different handling machine.

Take note I'm not super familiar with the 2015 sti but I wish someone would have recommended these options to me when I was building my sti back in 06 lol.

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Well go with what HolyCrapItsFast says he knows his stuff and is a legitimate tuner I'd trust. He posted before I finished my post I only know what works best for my specific car and it looks like the newer STI are a much different beast.

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First thing to do is look at the future of your car and see what your final vision of the car is going to be.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

This right here is the most important part on deciding what to do with your car and how to mod it. Great suggestion @Doppelganger.
 
Last edited:
This right here is the most important part on deciding what to do with your car and how to mod it. Great suggestion @Doppelganger.
Thanks I wish someone would have suggested this to me when I first started purchasing parts but in 06 there still was minimal info in the USDM and the magazine's along with vendors were pushing every product out there. Also tuners would tell you to purchase things just to make you spend more cash it's how I ended up with my perrin FMIC on a stock turbo when it was definitely not needed.

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Thanks I wish someone would have suggested this to me when I first started purchasing parts but in 06 there still was minimal info in the USDM and the magazine's along with vendors were pushing every product out there. Also tuners would tell you to purchase things just to make you spend more cash it's how I ended up with my perrin FMIC on a stock turbo when it was definitely not needed.

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LOL.. FMIC i honestly think is not needed,, causes too much lag. Air/water intercooler on the other hand is the route i am going with my 04 sti. As far as you statement goes, I was forced to wait to do any upgrades to my beloved 04 due to funds just not being there. So I guess poor mans savior, till knowledge has arrived on our GD's
 
LOL.. FMIC i honestly think is not needed,, causes too much lag. Air/water intercooler on the other hand is the route i am going with my 04 sti. As far as you statement goes, I was forced to wait to do any upgrades to my beloved 04 due to funds just not being there. So I guess poor mans savior, till knowledge has arrived on our GD's
LOL I think original tuner just liked the extra safety of FMIC and walbro fuel pump on his stage 2 protunes just to save his but. The FMIC was definitely not needed. I understand the poormans savings my car has been a paper weight since like 08 or 09.

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jimoblivion

New member
I would go with Number 2 personally but I would also consider the cobb cold air box... The stock pipes are to restricting and the Invidia will get you closer to your goal and sound much nicer than deleting mufflers (which is also illegal in all 50 states). I would not do anything with the BOV. It will gain you nothing and is a complete waste of money. The stock valve is good for just about any setup except very large turbos and very high pressure. For 330 to 350 you will see around 20-22 psi of gauge pressure on a stage 2 setup so the stock valve is fine unless you are actually seeing issues.
Sounds like good way to go! Thanks, I'm on it!
 

jimoblivion

New member
This right here is the most important part on deciding what to do with your car and how to mod it. Great suggestion @Doppelganger.
Once I've paid it off past half-way is when I plan to do more with it. Right now I just want a safe reliabel 330-350HP. Once I feel better about it being mine, I'll go deeper in. Thanks for the input!
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Well go with what HolyCrapItsFast says he knows his stuff and is a legitimate tuner I'd trust. He posted before I finished my post I only know what works best for my specific car and it looks like the newer STI are a much different beast.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

I don't disagree with anything you said. All sound advice IMO. :D :tup:
 

jimoblivion

New member
Okay, so I went w/the second setup minus the BOV: Downpipe-Catback Exhaust-Cobb CAI/Airbox and GrimmSpeed EBCS and pro-tune.


During the tune I get a call from the place, the tuner asks if I did anything to the fuel system, he's got it on the dyno and it's "running dead lean." He says he's going to have a look in the fuel system and get back to me. An hour later he calls back again and says that the turbo's blown? WTF? They said it was blown before they got to it. I asked how is that, it was never smoking before. He mentioned that as soon as they got it on the dyno, it started smoking because of the catless downpipe.


The guy tuning it says it was because you had a catalytic converter on it, the cat took all the excess oil and crystallized it and that's why I hadn't seen any smoke from it. I mentioned that the car is still under warranty and they wanted more time to talk and they'd have me call later. I called later and told them I'm taking the car to a Subaru Dealer. They wanted me to contact my warranty company and they could do the work, but.. They're not an accredited repair shop.


I was afraid my warranty would get voided if I call the company and tell them, my car is a XYZ Racing and the turbo's blown, is this covered. In the print of the warranty it says if racing the car it won't be covered. I didn't want to have XYZ Racing in my story to the dealership in any kind of way. They wanted me to do it w/them but I'm like no way am I going to get stuck having to pay this. They were hesitant but I told them to take the downpipe off and put the catalytic converter back on.


It was like they were hemming and hawing about it and it took them 2 days to get back to me to tell me they would do that. Then it took them 3 days to do the work. I told them the day the turbo went, I'll come and pay, I just want to get the car to Subaru. When I came to get the car, they said I'd tow it, I wouldn't drive it. I was communicating w/the shop assistant all day via FB and never once did he tell me don't come get the car, it needs to be towed. He chose to call my wife, I left my number w/them, but had been communicating w/the assistant through FB for days. When I get home, so my wife can bring me to the car she says they called her and told her to tell me not to drive it, it needs to be towed.


Once I got to the shop the guy that tuned it was no where to be found, neither was the shop owner. When we were on the phone for the blown turbo call, all three of them were on. So I ask the assistant, what if I limp home, don't go over 40 mph, he said yeah you'll be fine just don't hit boost at all or even get close, so of course I did that all the way home. I had the car towed to Subaru, I told them that I was merging into traffic. I was doing 35-40 mph and where I was merging into, they were running 55-65mph, so I got on it to merge and I felt it stumble and I didn't' have the power and I could see a big cloud of smoke out the back. I limped home and had it towed here, but while at home I checked the oil and it was down 2 qts and I had an oil change only 600 miles ago.


They took the car for three days and found nothing to be wrong w/the car. Now.....Who do I believe? I told the Subaru Dealership that it was definitely a power loss and smoke out the back and i'm 2 qts low on oil. Subaru said "TECH AND SHOP FOREMAN ROAD TESTED 20 MILES-NO FAULT AT THIS TIME". I'm planning on getting a street tune as I took the downpipe off and the Airbox and CAI from Cobb and the EBCS on the car.


I did flash to Stage 1+, I did a data log this morning but I didn't bring the connector cable to transfer the files to my work PC. Oddly enough we had 81 MPH winds and our power was out until 3am this morning. I'm going to have a street tune because really w/the Stage 1+ tune, the only thing not accounted for is the EBCS. I'm not driving it hard or playing until I can get some clarity out of this mess. Man, my heart dropped when the guy said the turbo died. I thought I was sold a lemon, actually it's still pending, i could have a lemon but the performance doesn't seem to be an issue?
 
Easiest way to see if something is wrong with turbo is to take DP off and check for shaft play. Also check you intercooler and all duct piles for large amounts of oil. Next thing I would have done is take it to a shop and have a leekdown and compression test done. The leekdown and compression test will tell you the general heath of the motor. Oil in the air duct lines will tell you if you have blowby or blown turbo seals. How many miles on the engine, and have you ever noticed excessive oil usage beforehand?


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jimoblivion

New member
I apologize for the late reply, we're still having power issues at home so I wasn't able to get on and respond. As of this morning the car has 25,750mi on it. I will say no to excessive oil usage but I purchased the car w/23,900mi on it Sept. 20th of last year. I only drove it to work Thursday's and Friday's from the time I got it and I garaged it the first real snow we got the first week of December. I did take the car to the Subaru Dealer for the 24k maintenance in Oct. even though the Chevy Dealership I purchased it from claims to have done it. The first I ever knew of excessive oil usage was when the Racing Shop Tuner mentioned it, and he says it was 2 qts low?
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Easiest way to see if something is wrong with turbo is to take DP off and check for shaft play. Also check you intercooler and all duct piles for large amounts of oil. Next thing I would have done is take it to a shop and have a leekdown and compression test done. The leekdown and compression test will tell you the general heath of the motor. Oil in the air duct lines will tell you if you have blowby or blown turbo seals. How many miles on the engine, and have you ever noticed excessive oil usage beforehand?


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That right there ^

Do a compression test right away to rule out damage to the motor. Stay away from that shop... something sounds fishy about them from the story you told.

When you get a chance, post a log. :tup:
 
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