Car upgrades

[Grinder34]

To answer that question we need to know what you use your car for?

Here are a couple of categories, try to let us know how often you do them:

Daily driver/commuter
Track Days
Auto Cross
"canyon runs" (i know...no canyons in NOLA)
Drag strip

Then also, how do you like your car to feel? Do you like power down low, or would you rather an engine that's happier in the upper rev-ranges? That is to say, is spool particularly important to you, or would you rather have peak power, but have very little power before 4-5K rpm?

 

[NOLASTI]

To answer that question we need to know what you use your car for?

Here are a couple of categories, try to let us know how often you do them:

Daily driver/commuter
Track Days
Auto Cross
"canyon runs" (i know...no canyons in NOLA)
Drag strip

Then also, how do you like your car to feel? Do you like power down low, or would you rather an engine that's happier in the upper rev-ranges? That is to say, is spool particularly important to you, or would you rather have peak power, but have very little power before 4-5K rpm?

I DD it sometimes and I usually drive it on the weekends.
Id like power quickly but I have noticed once it gets past 80 its a little slower at the top
I guess upper rev range because If I am driving spiritedly the revs will be high

 

[Spamby]

I'll chime in.

I have a stage 2 GR on corn, Cobb protune, and the difference is night and day to your OTS Perrin map. Why do I know this? Cause I ran the Perrin map.
I was very disappointend in the Perrin map but I somehow managed it for about 3 years.
If you have E85 available try it and see how you like it. If that is not enough then go the turbo route.
In the hands of competant tuner, a stage 2 on pump or corn is a night and day difference from the shabby OTS map. A tuner can make the VF48 pull harder in the upper limits but also make the car hit hard down low.
Our cars a pretty light and nimble and 450awhp I believe is not that necessary to make them go fast. And remember, torque is what makes your neck snap when stepping on the pedal. I've got 380 to the ground and that is pretty exciting.

My advice is to get a protune and see how you like it. If it just doesn't have enough where you want it then go for the turbo but a motor build should also be in the picture.

 

[NOLASTI]

where would I start on an engine rebuild exactly? I havent researched it at all and I am a little lost on where to begin

 

[Spamby]

You just did! Starting here is a good place.

Generally, forged pistons is what your after and since the casting issue, you may also be in for some block/cylinder wall beefing.

1. You can buy a new or used short block, build it and then yank your old motor and swap accessories. Keeping the old block as a spare or sell it to recoup some of your cost.
2. You can yank your motor and build it and then put it back in.

I'll let the guys who have done with Subaru engines clue you in on more of the specifics.

 

[NOLASTI]

Manley pistons are what I like.

Looser bearing clearances

Looser top ring gap

Balanced rotating assembly

I have one person I trust to build engines because he will spend the right amount of time and is attentive to details.

any exact products I should find online, I have a local guy who does only subarus and he quotes a grand to pull the engine and do everything, you just have to supply the parts

 

[NOLASTI]

You just did! Starting here is a good place.

Generally, forged pistons is what your after and since the casting issue, you may also be in for some block/cylinder wall beefing.

1. You can buy a new or used short block, build it and then yank your old motor and swap accessories. Keeping the old block as a spare or sell it to recoup some of your cost.
2. You can yank your motor and build it and then put it back in.

I'll let the guys who have done with Subaru engines clue you in on more of the specifics.

how do I beef block and wall?

 

[Spamby]

Pistons brands:
CP
Manley
Wiseco
Crawford
Cosworth

head studs and connecting rod bolts:
ARP
Cosworth
Map Performance
Carr
WMC

Gaskets:
Factory

Bearings:
ACL
Crower
Clevite


Fuji has a very good working knowledge of these motors. He has seen plenty and I would trust his word when he specifies parts for these specifically.

 

[NOLASTI]

is that all I need to do? I mean while the engine is out I should change cams and other stuff too right?

 

[Spamby]

is that all I need to do? I mean while the engine is out I should change cams and other stuff too right?

Not unless you plan on running a different cam with a different profile.

 

[NOLASTI]

so just reinforce pistons, rods, and bearings?

Im one of those people who needs to see/given the laundry list of things to do then I can figure it out

 

[IGOTASTi]

Don't forget "Sponsor" membership. Adds 40 HP! :rofl:

 

[NOLASTI]

Don't forget "Sponsor" membership. Adds 40 HP! :rofl:

Im starting to see the benefits

 

[IGOTASTi]

You haven't seen the rest of the goodies. They are hid.

 

[Spamby]

If I were in your spot this is what I would do if I had the engine out:

Pistons
Rods
main bearings
rod bearings
rod bolts
head studs
oil pump
oil pump pickup
new gaskets all around
bigger oil pan like killer bee
port and polish manifolds
tap manifold for egt probe
upgrade clutch
upgrade pressure plate
new throwout bearing
TGV delete
larger intake tube like AMR hard pipe.
new/bigger injectors
new/bigger fuel pump
possible fuel rails
boost control solenoid
lightweight crank pulley
balance the engine assembly
go bigger turbo if that is what you desire
get other stuff for said bigger turbo and depending on what turbo
tune for fuel of choice


I am sure there are others and be prepared for others.

Talk to your mechanic.

 

[Spamby]

oh yea. Sponsor the site for 40 ponies and a key to pandora's box.

 

[NOLASTI]

so main upgrades: bearings, pistons, rods, crank pulley, and balance

 

[Grinder34]

Well for internals, those are certainly the main ones.

But as Spamby indicated, while the engine is out, there are lots of other things you may consider doing, but some are just "nice to do" and not really "necessary"

I just spent a whopping 3 minutes googling dynos for stock turbos, and not many (any?) of them came to 400 whp. From what i saw, on E85 (do you have that in NOLA), they were getting ~350 whp and ~410 wtq. I only spent 3 min and I trust Fuji, so i'm probably wrong though--but it at least looks like it'll take E85 and some other mods to get you there.

 

[NOLASTI]

we do have e85 I found a gas station that sells it, thank you very much I am gonna get to researching

 

[NOLASTI]

I guess I want to beef up the weak spots so it can handle upper 300 and low 400 awhp. I dont wanna go over that.

My worst fear is driving the car and the engine literally exploding and chunks of my engine goes out the exhaust pipe.