Eagleye
Tinkerer
I have also never heard of this causing problems unless he is referring to something different than what I am thinking of...although I'm not really sure what that would be.
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- Thread starter Eagleye
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I have also never heard of this causing problems unless he is referring to something different than what I am thinking of...although I'm not really sure what that would be.
Eagleye
Tinkerer
will do, thanks
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Hey Tyler... I was looking at the wheel well liner I bought and it is for the passenger side. I bought the wrong one. So I ordered another one and it should be coming to your address. You now have two brand new wheel well liners :tup:
Eagleye
Tinkerer
Thanks George, I appreciate that. But I can certainly pay you for it. I should be hearing from the guy who is picking the Carr up today. Im thinking it will be a Thurs pup.
Fuji: i used those on my mustang and they were nice. I still have 2 new 275x40x17s.-
GuyWithCameraPGH
New member
Most cranks are nitrided to harden the outside bearing surfaces. When you cut the cranks you reduce the thickness of this hardened layer. I've never looked at a Suby Fs but I've never seen one that recommends cutting the crank. To me its a best practice thing as well. Plus if you spun a bearing there's still the reason why it spun that may end up causing it again whether it be oil pump, plugged galley that can't be seen or properly cleaned, or factory defect in the oiling system through the crank.
Also just my opinion but Nittos (like et streets and thos bfg's) are "axel breakers".
Also just my opinion but Nittos (like et streets and thos bfg's) are "axel breakers".
I will make sure to go to you for "stroking it out"........ :-o
Although I usually need more than 2.7 strokes..... :shock:
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
See now knowing what I know now and seeing it in action I would do the opposite and destroke it to a 2.3. I am finding that though the stroker will develop the torque you will run through the gears too quickly and not reach the power potential of the engine. My car right now with the stock crank hits redline way to quickly. Essentially you will be spending much of your time shifting and losing valuable time. With a destroked engine you can run out the gears much longer.
I very rarely disaggree with my colleague Fuji but there is always a first time. IMO the replacement for displacement is the turbo and other component selections along with good tuning. My friend has a destroked EJ with a 40R turbo and runs his gears out to 10000 rpm and it pulls like a freight train all the way through. He recently did an 11.2 on 17psi of boost and just upped it to 30psi. He took me for a ride and I shit my self. Off a 60mph roll he breaks the tire loose in fourth gear.
I didn't observe much low end loss of power as others would suggest and his spool time was reasonable.
My thoughts are to have a well rounded motor and just stick with stock crank.
I very rarely disaggree with my colleague Fuji but there is always a first time. IMO the replacement for displacement is the turbo and other component selections along with good tuning. My friend has a destroked EJ with a 40R turbo and runs his gears out to 10000 rpm and it pulls like a freight train all the way through. He recently did an 11.2 on 17psi of boost and just upped it to 30psi. He took me for a ride and I shit my self. Off a 60mph roll he breaks the tire loose in fourth gear.
I didn't observe much low end loss of power as others would suggest and his spool time was reasonable.
My thoughts are to have a well rounded motor and just stick with stock crank.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
WHY DO YOU DO THAT TO ME! :lol:
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
He is using the Cosworth 12mm pump I believe. He is also using extra oil clearances under my recommendation along with 10w40 synthetic. You are right... we could do much better. Our valves are the weak link I think... They don't fair well much past 9500-10000. I see them break all the time. His have held up pretty good so far though. I have to find out what he is using. He turned it back a bit on the turbo this week. 30psi was just to insane.
Doubleyouarex
New member
I enjoy reading all of this, just sitting here wishing I could actually build a motor 
Eagleye
Tinkerer
Got the car into the garage today, the real work will begin tomorrow. The plan is to get the motor pulled and on a stand, but with work and guys wanting to see the car, who knows how well that will go haha. I am pretty well down to 2 options as far as getting the car running again. If the damage is very minor I will get the crank turned, new rod, new bearings, new gaskets, new oil p-up tube and have everything balanced. If there is more significant damage I will be buying a new short block and getting it tuned. If I have to go with the new shortblock I will be building a 2nd motor, so I think either way I will be happy and within budget. I will be sure to get pics up as i go.
Holy, do you have the balance sheets for the current motor? I would need them if I am able to go with the first option.
Holy, do you have the balance sheets for the current motor? I would need them if I am able to go with the first option.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Oh god I have to look but I don't think I do. The only thing I had balanced was the crank though. The flywheel I was going to replace so I didn't bother with that.
The rods were so close to each other and they come pre-balanced already. It would be a shame if you had to replace those rods... They are very expensive and supposedly can handle upwards of 1000 hp.
Hear is another thought also... The spare block that I gave you can't be bored out anymore. You should sleeve and pin it and possibly o-ring it to make an absolute monster out of it.
The rods were so close to each other and they come pre-balanced already. It would be a shame if you had to replace those rods... They are very expensive and supposedly can handle upwards of 1000 hp.
Hear is another thought also... The spare block that I gave you can't be bored out anymore. You should sleeve and pin it and possibly o-ring it to make an absolute monster out of it.
Eagleye
Tinkerer
Good to know, what exactly was done to the crank?
Do you know the specs for it if I have to have it turned?
Do you have the A/C unit?
I did pretty well with limited time today, got up to removing the bellhousing bolts. I'm starting to get anxious, I want to know what I am working with internally (in both motors).
How much is interchangeable between the two motors (I dont know what is in the 2nd motor...is it stock?)?
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Both cranks are uncut and stock pin and journal sizes so there is room for adjustment on both. The only thing stock in either motor is the crank. The rest of it has been changed.
I do have the AC compressor but I have to wait for my friend to bring it to work. When I get it I will send it out ASAP. The thing I don't have is the evaporator... or is it the condenser... what ever goes in front of the radiator.
I to am anxious to see what you uncover.
I do have the AC compressor but I have to wait for my friend to bring it to work. When I get it I will send it out ASAP. The thing I don't have is the evaporator... or is it the condenser... what ever goes in front of the radiator.
I to am anxious to see what you uncover.
Eagleye
Tinkerer
Sounds good, hopefully I will be able to work with what is there then. I was starting to think I would have to go with a new short block to start with. As far as the A/C goes just let me know how much shipping is and I can send you a payment through paypal (and I believe it is the evaporator you are referring to).
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