Grinders E39 ///M5

[Alin]

[MENTION=662]Batmobile_Engage[/MENTION] , he sold the STi back in like 2016. You'd have to look in his STi's journal for the exact date.
[MENTION=652]Grinder34[/MENTION] , I have to say, man, that iDrive shit is really nice and changes the look completely! :tup: Why did you change the shift knob from the wood grain and was it during the SSK swap? Yeah, the M5 is a sports oriented car, but it's still a luxury boat. I learned to appreciate wood grain from the D2 A8 I had.

So, what's next on your to do list?! Show some pictures of the steering wheel you wanted to get! When are you going to take more pictures for us?!

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

@Alin that's what I thought, but wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything. :lol:

 

[Grinder34]

@Grinder34 , I have to say, man, that iDrive shit is really nice and changes the look completely!

Thanks! It just even FEELS newer. I have a bunch of pictures somewhere, but it was tons (for me anyways) of fab work to make it look factory, and no guides to follow. Hacked the idrive controller into the center console, and made a fame for the monitor

:tup: Why did you change the shift knob from the wood grain and was it during the SSK swap? Yeah, the M5 is a sports oriented car, but it's still a luxury boat. I learned to appreciate wood grain from the D2 A8 I had.

Yes, it was part of the SSK endeavour. It's a weighted and backlit shift knob that came with a new leather boot. I think it was standard on the outgoing M5, and could be stretched to fit. My leather was pretty beat up. The auto-dimming rearview fluid leaked out onto the leather and deteriorated it badly!

So, what's next on your to do list?! Show some pictures of the steering wheel you wanted to get! When are you going to take more pictures for us?!

I'll get more pics, I promise. Everything's always just dirty!

Here's what I want:

vs what i have:

 

[Alin]

Oooohhh!! Pictures of the light up shift knob as well, then!

How in the hell did the auto-dim rear view mirror fluid leak??? I've never heard or read about such a thing!

Your stock steering wheel is a fatty! How much do the newer ones go for?

Was this well bought?
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2002-bmw-m5-50/

 

[Alin]

At what air pressure do you keep your M5's tires filled at? Are all 4 tires filled up to the same PSI, or do they vary from front to rear?

 

[Grinder34]

At what air pressure do you keep your M5's tires filled at? Are all 4 tires filled up to the same PSI, or do they vary from front to rear?

I'm trying to recall what i used for the last Auto-x. I think it was a slight stagger in air pressure, and a bit higher than typical street pressures. I don't concern myself with it too much since I'm a much bigger variable in car performance than my tires' pressure.

For the street I keep them between 34 ish front, and maybe a few psi higher for the rear. All cold measurements.

 

[Alin]

What would running slightly higher PSI in the rear affect exactly (especially on a FWD car)? Let's say instead of filling all my tires to 35-36 PSI as I normally do, I fill the front up to 35 PSI and the rear to 38 PSI.

Recently, I looked at some cars' fuel cap for the recommended PSI values for cargo weight and was very surprised that some vehicles, from the factory, with half cargo (there's half cargo and full cargo recommendations) recommend high 20's PSI.... High 20's PSI would destroy my fuel economy...

 

[Grinder34]

What would running slightly higher PSI in the rear affect exactly (especially on a FWD car)? Let's say instead of filling all my tires to 35-36 PSI as I normally do, I fill the front up to 35 PSI and the rear to 38 PSI.

Recently, I looked at some cars' fuel cap for the recommended PSI values for cargo weight and was very surprised that some vehicles, from the factory, with half cargo (there's half cargo and full cargo recommendations) recommend high 20's PSI.... High 20's PSI would destroy my fuel economy...

I'm sure there's a TON of physics at play. Somewhere in one of my many car setup/handling/physics books I'm sure resides an answer.

But I'm sure it's just fine-tuning the handling characteristics along with expected loads & weight transfers. If i have time later today I'll peruse the books to try to find you an answer!

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

I don't know if we want to get too off topic in this thread (maybe we start another one instead) but I'm kind of surprised at both of you, in regards to your tire pressure settings. I've never seen anyone run a higher pressure in the rear unless they were trying to induce a lot of oversteer. Not only that, but I feel like you guys are running a little high as well. Do you both eat up tires like crazy or what?

 

[Grinder34]

I don't know if we want to get too off topic in this thread (maybe we start another one instead) but I'm kind of surprised at both of you, in regards to your tire pressure settings. I've never seen anyone run a higher pressure in the rear unless they were trying to induce a lot of oversteer. Not only that, but I feel like you guys are running a little high as well. Do you both eat up tires like crazy or what?

Well, the E39 pushes a LOT, especially at low speeds. Anything to get the back to rotate is welcomed in an AutoX. Plus pressures are a bit higher than normal to prevent tire rollover and accomidate for low additional heat (very short runs)

Some of the other M5 guys are running something like 38/42 on the street though!

I don't eat tires. I dont drive the thing much either, so who knows.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Wow. I'm still kind of amazed. On the street, that seems so high, especially in the rear! For example, I put my daily drivers through their paces. In totally stock config with all the silencers in place, you can still hear the turbo singing in my Buick on the regular. I don't really slow down for turns and such. Thus, I run tire pressures intended to perform well AND get reasonable mpg and tread life. That said, here's how I am normally aired up:

2014 Buick Regal Turbo (FWD): 35psi Front, 32psi Rear
2004 Subaru STi (AWD obviously): 34psi Front, 30psi Rear
2004 STi for autocross: 32psi Front, 29-32 Rear (depending on course layout)

 

[Alin]

Interesting. Well, I've never ran my tire pressures differently (front vs. rear) on any cars. Then again, I've never had a proper RWD car. (The Toyota truck doesn't count cause it was a POS.) In the STi, I run 32-34 PSI in all 4 tires. Recently, I've been experimenting with slightly higher pressures in the TDI and they're currently set at 36 PSI in all 4. (Still corners amazingly for what the car is.) I have never eaten up tires. I've actually always been baffled at how many miles I can squeeze out of all of the tires I've ever had. Unless your toe is fucked or your camber is set to an insane amount (CAMBER ALERT!), and you rotate your tires every 3,000 miles, then there's no reason as to why tires wouldn't last. This even includes summer performance tires and when I say lasting, the comparison is on an individual manufacturer's suggested mileage longevity (since all manufacturers are different).

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

I'm sure you guys are aware of this unlike many others out there, but tires are an essential variable in suspension performance and comfort. For me, I can tell even if I'm only a passenger, if the tire pressure is f-ed up. Especially if it's too high, specifically in the rear. Every little imperfection in the road is amplified, the higher that tire pressure goes. I hop in my wife's Equinox and run <1 mile down to RiteAid for milk, after she comes back from a service appt. (it's a lease) and I'm like "wtf did they do to the tires, it's like I have brick instead of rubber". I check, and sure as shit, they have it cranked up to 43 psi front and rear. The middle of the tire contact patches get worn faster than the shoulders, leading to increased hydroplaning and I even notice tire squealing when cornering because the tire isn't flexing and maintaining contact across the patch.

I've even called them up and given them the "wtf is wrong with you? are you trying to increase our tire wear? I just checked and they were all 48-53psi." They don't like it when I call them... :lol:

 

[Grinder34]

I don't know if I'm that in tune with my vehicles. MAYBE i could tell if I actually took the time to pay attention? And tried it too-low, just right, then too-high. Maybe. Never tried it, so hard to say!

The only time i usually notice is if only one tire is low and it's pulling, so yeah. I wish I was better, just dont think I am!

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

I swear, if my tires are down a couple psi, I will rarely notice unless there is pulling because of it. But 2 psi high and the butt dyno says "somethin's fucky". :lol:

 

[Alin]

First of all, I feel anything higher than 45 PSI is ludicrous... Isn't the max limit on average right around 60 PSI per passenger vehicle tire? I know semi trucks run 120 PSI, but they have 10 tires and the weight of the trucks alone are around 18,000 lb. However, that's a different story.

In the TDI, since I run mid 30's, I CAN feel when they're low. Every time the car feels off, I check the tires and they're 28-30 PSI. (Usually only drops in the colder months.) 36 PSI isn't high enough air to cause the middle portion of the tire to wear unevenly. Now, 48-53 PSI like you mentioned, Ryan, is something I can't fathom. :lol: Do note though, that the TDI's stock tires are 195/65R15. In the 17's (215/45R17) I sold recently, the pressure was set to 34-35 PSI. So, sidewall also plays a key role in the amount of pressure you can/should run.

 

[Alin]

[MENTION=652]Grinder34[/MENTION] , we need updates! :banghead:

 

[Grinder34]

Been dealing with battery drain issues. My car pretty much never gets driven since i now work from home, bike to pick up my daugter from day care, and take the wifes station wagon on the weekends.

Here's my saga:

I couldn't get it started last time, so tried my GOOLOO brand jump starter. Nope. Already suspected it was crap. So i put it on a Battery Tender Junior (trickle charger) and it said it got up to voltage. False. Car wont start and If i un/re-plugged it in, it would register it still needed to be charged. So i kept checking on it, un/re-plugging it. Still can't get it to start. I bust out my cheapo HF multimeter to check the battery, also dead. Ordered a Lithium micro-usb rechargable 9V from amazon. Also buy a Noco GB70 2000 amp jump starter to replace the GOOLOO. Keep un/re-plugging charger multiple times a day waiting for package to arrive.
Car battery at ~9V. Take the Noco straight out of the package, try to jump the car---nothing. Go inside and buy a Schumacher 3A battery maintainer. Meanwhile keep un/re-plugging the other battery tender to try to get some charge. Charge up the Noco overnight, BOOM, it starts up. Not sure if it was the Noco, or extra charge from the old maintainer. Switched to Schumacher maintainer, left it for two days (today). It says its fully charged and maintaining. False. 9.5V read across battery terminals. Try the NOCO, nothing. Try the Noco on the under-hood terminals AND the GOOLOO on the actual battery and it starts up!

So now I guess I return the Noco and the Schumacher because they aren't fixing my problem. Still no idea about the battery drain, or how to deal with it.

 

[Alin]

Hmm, what an odd situation. Have you checked the BMW forums if anyone else had a similar issue?

 

[Grinder34]

Best I can figure I have a bad battery. Probably from being drained a few times.

I kept the reciept and Autozone has already replaced it once under warranty. Maybe they'll do it again!