Hello from Delaware
- Thread starter Defpo
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We have [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] and [MENTION=5193]War_Panda04[/MENTION] out in that area. Upgrade the internals to be on the safe side
before you think of making any mods after stage 3+Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Are you saying I shouldn?t go to my stage 3+ without upgraded internals? I plan on getting an IAG stage 2 short block before going any further past that. Seems like most people say ~350whp is the limit for stock with a safe tune. Of course that varies a lot who you ask and of course the dyno being tested on...
Upgrade the internals to be on the safe side
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If your getting a short block make sure it?s a closed deck they do have one I think it?s a stage 4, that?s what I?d recommend you?d be able to use your baby as a daily. Not saying that the one your planning on getting is bad but a closed deck would be able to handle more abuse. Check what type of material the forged pistons are made of there are two grades if I?m not mistaken make sure you read more about them and know the differences between them
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If you are ever in the Middle East-Kuwait specifically hit me up
and that goes for every one on the forum Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah I don?t move until coolant is up to temp and nothing hard until oil is up to temp. Not excessive WOT :?, definitely not from low rpms. Don?t really ever hard launch it. She gets driven hard but in a respectful manner :lol:
He's stating that in order to have peace of mind. "better safe than sorry."
I trust you let your car properly warm up, don't always go WOT, launch from every red light, and so on and so forth.
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Will look into IAG closed deck options. Think the next step up to stage 3 is closed deck for like $800 more than stage 2. Probably worth the difference. Will have to do more research on the pistons as well. Thanks for the advice :tup:
Looks like the IAG stage 2.5 closed deck short block is what ill end up going with. With the option to add Cosworth pistons (proprietary alloy similar to 4032). seems the 4032 has less thermal expansion allowing tighter tolerances which reduces piston slap and cylinder wear.
Now you guys have me worried I might be pushing too far with my 3+ setup. maybe just spend a small fortune at once and do stage 3+ and 4 at the same time... lots to think about :lol: good thing I have plenty of time to refine my plans.
Now you guys have me worried I might be pushing too far with my 3+ setup. maybe just spend a small fortune at once and do stage 3+ and 4 at the same time... lots to think about :lol: good thing I have plenty of time to refine my plans.
I personally would worry most about internal components before putting any bolt on mods, I would recommend as well that you keep it stock and not void the warranty, I own a 2015 Sti too and I can?t wait to modify it. I got it second hand and on the second day of purchasing it I had a ring land failure in the second piston. Now if it were modified at that time I would not have had the job done on the warranty it?s (costed 5k$ for a rebuild) my advice is keep it stock until the warranty has expired and then mod it as much as you like and I?d say that would give you enough time to save up money and you?ll get to know more about your car and it?s maintenance. Wish you the very best and here is a picture of my babe
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I know I should leave it stock and ride out the warranty, but I think we both know I?m not going to do that :lol:. Im trying to stay within reason without blowing up the engine but if it does I?ll just have to advance the short block swap.
Do you know anything of the history before you purchased your sti that contributed to the ring land failure? How many miles?
Well the car was serviced on a regular basis, I had it inspected before buying it. However, I think the service center did not detect a thing with the vehicle and the car had around 30000 miles on the clock. Which ever path you choose to take I wish you the very best. I personally am not in the states so ordering an engine from iag would be a hassle but am planning on getting one
we?re both on the same page here XD but I?ll ride my warranty and then afterwards I?ll start modifying it. Thing. Is we have not got any good Subaru tuner so once I have all the build parts ready I?ll have to ship the car to a garage in either Bahrain, Saudi Arabia or the United Arab Emirates Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well the car was serviced on a regular basis, I had it inspected before buying it. However, I think the service center did not detect a thing with the vehicle and the car had around 30000 miles on the clock. Which ever path you choose to take I wish you the very best. I personally am not in the states so ordering an engine from iag would be a hassle but am planning on getting one
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I am only a 2 hour drive from IAG so not a huge deal if I need to get to them. I hope to have them do the short block swap and tuning when the time comes.
That sucks there aren?t any tuners near you. Maybe you could try an e-tune? I have read that they are pretty good if done by a reputable tuner.
Grinder34
Track Monkey
Without scrolling back too much...do you have, or are planning on getting, any gauges? I'm not a fan of the gauges-everywhere look, but if you're starting to get up there in HP, it might be worth a thought to keep an eye on things. Some can probably be displayed with the AP, but certainly not all.
Oil temp - Make sure you're up to temp before wailing on it, and that you dont overcook something and need an oil cooler.
Oil pressure - the stock one is just a warning light that your engine has about 1.5 seconds before detonation. It'd be nice to have more warning!
Boost - Duh.
AFR - Really helps with tuning and making sure you don't go lean.
EGT - I had one. Meh. It also tells you rich/lean, but until someone tells me why I'm wrong, I'd rather have AFR.
Oil temp - Make sure you're up to temp before wailing on it, and that you dont overcook something and need an oil cooler.
Oil pressure - the stock one is just a warning light that your engine has about 1.5 seconds before detonation. It'd be nice to have more warning!
Boost - Duh.
AFR - Really helps with tuning and making sure you don't go lean.
EGT - I had one. Meh. It also tells you rich/lean, but until someone tells me why I'm wrong, I'd rather have AFR.
Other than the AP, no external gauges yet. I do plan on getting a wideband O2 + AFR gauge. there is a factory boost gauge in the little info screen. Oil pressure/temp would be nice to have a gauge for, something like this maybe https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3913-Pressure-Tempgauge/dp/B071JFVMD1
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