Is This Setup Good?

jimoblivion

New member
Seems i've been around the world and back with car. Not the place to tell the story but the moral of my story is always do a Pre-Purchase Inspection on a Subie. Secondly, I'm once again looking to get my STI on the right track but I'm waiting for my insurance claim to clear. Once that happens I'll have a stock engine again. My question for today and I'm wondering if this setup makes sense? Once I get the stock engine back in, I'm only going to change out the dp for a catless bellmouth and ELH. I'm not putting the Cobb air intake or the Grimmspeed EBC back on, both of which were in my previous setup. First I hope this is in the correct forum, if not please redirect. So going to have the car tuned to the catless dp and ELH. Is this ok, smart or dumb?

I did see another post where [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] says he believes the stock intake is good enough and watching some cheesy old videos of the early EVO's vs the GC8 and Bugeye's, they were all stock and the commentator was talking about how you don't really need to modify these cars but people do. With the ELH, I want to give the car longevity. I know you can still get ringland w/them but I won't be driving like that or tracking the car. The catless dp is so the engine breathes better. I'd rather have reliability over performance. My engine troubles were caused by the oil pickup being cracked. Car had been in Subaru on 4 occasions and they never diagnosed it as that and one of the times in it was in there for a blown turbo.
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
Seems i've been around the world and back with car. Not the place to tell the story but the moral of my story is always do a Pre-Purchase Inspection on a Subie. Secondly, I'm once again looking to get my STI on the right track but I'm waiting for my insurance claim to clear. Once that happens I'll have a stock engine again. My question for today and I'm wondering if this setup makes sense? Once I get the stock engine back in, I'm only going to change out the dp for a catless bellmouth and ELH. I'm not putting the Cobb air intake or the Grimmspeed EBC back on, both of which were in my previous setup. First I hope this is in the correct forum, if not please redirect. So going to have the car tuned to the catless dp and ELH. Is this ok, smart or dumb?

I did see another post where @HolyCrapItsFast says he believes the stock intake is good enough and watching some cheesy old videos of the early EVO's vs the GC8 and Bugeye's, they were all stock and the commentator was talking about how you don't really need to modify these cars but people do. With the ELH, I want to give the car longevity. I know you can still get ringland w/them but I won't be driving like that or tracking the car. The catless dp is so the engine breathes better. I'd rather have reliability over performance. My engine troubles were caused by the oil pickup being cracked. Car had been in Subaru on 4 occasions and they never diagnosed it as that and one of the times in it was in there for a blown turbo.

1) I like ELH, but some people dont--they say it ruins the boxer rumble.
2) As for the intake, you dont really need it, especially if everything else is stock, but why not?
3) The EBC is probably better than the stock 2-port, I'd leave that in for better control.
4) Catless DP is a good way to go. If you're doing the Cobb one, know that it's not a true 3" and will be a bottleneck down the line if you try to do a full exhaust system.

None of the items are related to the oil pickup though, that's just bad luck!
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
I'm not certain how this platform performs on the stock EBCS combined with a catless downpipe, but everywhere I've looked, I've seen either the GS or the Cobb 3 port EBCS used for better control. It may be possible that the car would still overboost. In regards to the ELH, I don't have any experience or knowledge on the subject as I've never researched nor really cared about it. At one point, I decided that I would be an UEL boxer rumble kind of guy. You'll have to do some more research and wait for others to respond.

The stock intake is indeed good for around roughly 400HP. The only time you'd truly need to upgrade, is when you get a bigger turbo that requires more air to be sucked in. However with that being said, the Cobb SFI has a honeycomb flow straightener inside that helps even out airflow. The Cobb SFI is one of the best options if you were to upgrade over the stock intake. @HolyCrapItsFast has all of the knowledge and information on pretty much all aspects. :tup:

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"This system utilizes several unique features in an effort to maintain optimal flow for performance while minimizing turbulence that can cause engine management problems. From a custom conical cloth air-filter element, we use a CFD-designed velocity stack leading to an unique air flow straightener grid. This straightener grid is specifically designed to smooth the incoming air flow as it passes the Mass Air Flow sensor for precise readings. This eliminates the "dead spots" experienced by other aftermarket intakes due to turbulence. No other aftermarket Subaru intake system utilizes these critical design elements."

 

jimoblivion

New member
1) As much as I love the rumble, it doesn't bother me that it'd be gone.
2)I do have the Cobb SFI, but if its no benefit. Save a couple hundred bucks. I'm not going to try to hit 400whp or anything like that.
3)Thanks for everyone's in put, I'll keep the GS EBCS on.
4)I have a Megan Racing 3" DP raring to go
5)So no one thinks I need to get the Killer B pickup so I don't have this issue again?
6)I may rethink #2 and just put it on, I do have it already?
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
I mean, you have the Cobb SFI already, and it does have an advantage, so why not use it?

Regarding the oil pick up tube, you can't go wrong with Killer B, but there is also Moroso as another option. I've been fortunate that my car has performed as intended, but if I were in your shoes with your past experience, I'd definitely get an oil pickup tube for peace of mind.
 

jimoblivion

New member
Yeah, that's what I was thinking about the pickup but wasn't sure if the killer b was overkill? I believe the cracked pickup was from the previous owner. I got the car w/24K on it and before the engine fiasco I have it up to 32k. This car has been in more shops and my garage than on the road.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
When it comes to engine safety, reliability, and your mental well being, there is no such thing as overkill. :lol: :tup:
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
Any oil pickup will be better than stock--and even the stock one has been fine for 99% of the people.

I'd get a new one, just because its relatively cheap. But its nothing you'll ever see again, and probably never have to think about it again, so just pick up one and be done with it!
 

jimoblivion

New member
UPDATE:

I had the replacement engine installed. I put on 1320 Racing ELH, Megan Racing Catless DP, the Cobb Intake/Airbox, the GrimmSpeed EBC and got a street tune.

All of that was completed the Spring of 2019. The first few weeks w/the car I kept getting a CEL in the mornings when it was colder out, but w/in 2 days it would go away. I wasn't sure what it was (the code) because every time I decided to go to Auto Zone to have them read it, the code would go away. That happen for a week or two and as it got warmer out, the CEL's stopped all together. So all summer there was no issue.

Once Fall set in and colder mornings came back, I started getting the CEL's again. One Sunday afternoon I took the car out and it was around 70 degrees out. I'm driving normal for about an hour and a half and I start making my way home. I get between 4 and 6 miles from home and a couple of cars wanted to drive spirited and I did. I've got a green-eyed monster in me that all he needs is some spirited driving and he's loose and I'm ripping around in the car. I'm learning and trying cognitively to combat that.

So I'm at 4 way intersection about 3/4 of a mile from home and I'm stopped at the light. I have a quick left-hander and about 60 yard before the road starts a 45 degree incline. I figure I'll give'er one more rip before we go back home and I garage her. The light turns and I take off, as soon as the wheel straightens out I'm at 3500 RPM, so I rip through 2 & 3rd and I ride 4th slightly longer and I do the same w/5th gear now I'm on the incline and I'm figuring to hold WOT until I get to the top and I'll coast over. I'm at about 74 MPH in this 35 MPH zone and first the engine hickups and it throws a CEL.

I was actually afraid this time because of the load on the engine and how abrupt the CEL came about. So I start reading the nasioc forums (not sure if that's taboo around here) and I find one that describes Boost Creep. The way I got the CEL, it felt like there was a fuel cut and power was shut off. The car drove the rest of the way home no problem, I'm just gun shy I guess.

So after reading about Boost Creep I was told multiple times and EWG would remedy this, so I set out to get an EWG for 2020. So as Spring sprung, I was again getting a CEL in colder mornings. Not long after is when Covid came about. So the first Stimulus I was able to get a Tial EWG w/GrimmSpeed Uppipe & plumbing. I got a TurboSmart 2 Port BOV,(My tuner has worked extensively w/them eventhough he recommends a 50/50 recirc) Killer B Oil Pickup Tube & Baffle. Also I purchased a Mishimoto FMIC w/Christmas money I receive, so I had it a few month before having it installed.

While all of these things were being put on the car we found out that the 1320 ELH was warped or was warping. The mentioned it too 200 lbs of force to straighten it to get it off and something needed to be remachined as the studs were bending in. So I ended-up having to purchase Invidia ELH's. (Knock on wood) I was able to get a Stimulus and continued working, I do support for a food corporation and was needed the whole time and our company actually had more work than we were able to handle, so no one was ever furloughed.

Right now the car is where I want it power wise, I don't think I should try to push for more. The drive-ability of it is great and I want to have a fun reliable 300+ HP. My tuner, although it hasn't been on the dyno says I have a healthy 300 whp. So now w/everything worked out the car drives like a dream. I have some excessive heat under the hood but my tuner says it's fine. He mentioned that if I wanted more power I'd need to move up my injectors to 1000cc's. I mentioned that I'm about where I want to be w/power, just looking to reduce the heat under the hood. He mentioned (and this sounds good to me) That I could get a slightly bigger turbo and it would run more efficent. So right now I'm a happy camper! Just a quick update!
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Heat wrap and/or heatshield! :tup:

lEEkNyk.jpg
 

Grinder34

Track Monkey
I'm glad the car's ok after your CEL issues!

Definitely pick up even a cheap-o OBDII scanner, its worth it to be able to read even generic codes sometimes!

As for heat, as Alin said, some wrap or a headshield, wrap, turbo blanket will help, but since you've got an FMIC now, i dont think it's as big an issue as with the TMIC. You can install a "radiator shroud" to help direct all the air through the FMIC/radiator. Other than that, engines just get hot...
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
I'm glad the car's ok after your CEL issues!

Definitely pick up even a cheap-o OBDII scanner, its worth it to be able to read even generic codes sometimes!

As for heat, as Alin said, some wrap or a headshield, wrap, turbo blanket will help, but since you've got an FMIC now, i dont think it's as big an issue as with the TMIC. You can install a "radiator shroud" to help direct all the air through the FMIC/radiator. Other than that, engines just get hot...

Are radiator shrouds worth their price, and are they effective enough to warrant as a "must buy?"

Full disclosure: my car came with a Cusco shroud and it's been on ever since, and I never questioned or looked into the matter. :lol:
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Definitely wrap your header, up pipe and (if desired) the first ~20" of your downpipe from the turbo on down. A turbo blanket isn't really necessary, but can help substantially. Do you have the turbo heat shield in place? Lots of people find that the heat shield doesn't fit anymore after installing an aftermarket downpipe. But instead of tossing it aside, trim it with an angle grinder and it will fit again. I've been able to fit the factory shield--trimmed--back on across 2 different aftermarket downpipes and 2 different aftermarket turbos. So it's pretty easily done.
 
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