how about some explanation on mapping strategy? e.g..what do you tune first? Fuel, ignition, then boost?
Also, how do you know where to stop advancing or retarding timing and how do you get to LBT without the use of a dyno? a knock log might be useful for timing but is it safe enough to knock and then retard a couple of degrees?
The short answer is Fuel first then a combination of fuel, timing and boost. Yes it is safe to observe a little knock and then back it down till you see no knock. This is common practice. As long as it is not knocking all the time, a couple of degrees is not going to do anything. Download Virtual Dyno. It will help you see your power gains/looses.
The long answer is I personally start by defining everything very conservatively at first, rich fuel, low timing, low boost (no waste gate duty). Then I start calibrating for closed loop fuel and timing.
(the key word here is calibrate, not define. Defining fuel come later) For the most part, Stock timing is good in closed loop but you could adjust it further to improve smoothness and response. Essentially I will start with a smoothed stock fuel map and smoothed stock timing and low boost (no waste gate duty) and then calibrate the closed loop MAF region till the logged parameters for A/F correction and A/F learned together are with in 3-4%. This gets the AFR's out the tail pipe to match the fuel map. I will then define the fuel map and/or timing map in certain areas for fuel economy or to improve response. Knowing how to do this is key though and it takes experience to get it right.
After that I will calibrate my WOT MAF so the AFR's at the Wide Band match the fuel map while boost is low. Then bring boost up and keep calibrating the MAF while keeping an eye on knock. Keep doing this till you have reached target boost. Adjust timing as needed to counter any knock. Once the MAF is calibrated, you can now start defining your fuel map by leaning it out. When I define fuel for wot, I am observing knock at the same time. Knock can be seen by observing feedback knock and learned knock parameters in the log and also observing dynamic advance multiplier to be "1". You can define your WOT fuel by leaning the fuel map at WOT and form 4000 rpm to about 11.3 to 11.5 AFR. Usually this is from load cells 1.75 and up. In my experience, this is the ideal AFR for the STi. Then start to add timing till you start to observe feed back knock and then back off the timing 2 degrees. Keep doing that till you are happy with the results. If you are comfortable doing so, you can further lean out fuel at RPM's lower than 5500 but be careful and compare your results with a reliable dyno plot using Virtual Dyno.
Observing knock is actually a combination of observing power gains and knock parameters at the same time and the best way to do this is to use Virtual Dyno software to dyno-plot your logs. Even though your log may not show any knock, The dyno plot may suggest otherwise because it shows you have lost power which could indicate that you are actually seeing knock or that you have not achieved MBT.
Essentially Fuel, Timing and Boost have to be all adjusted together, but if you calibrate your fuel first and just maintain 11.3-11.5 AFR, you should be able to just go right into boost and timing together. My reason for maintaining such a rich AFR is to help control Exhaust gas temperatures and also allow me to use more aggressive boost and timing. It builds in an inherent level of safety because street tuning while using Virtual Dyno leaves a certain level of uncertainty. On a real reliable dyno, there is no doubt and the results are your guide.
It takes experience to know the comfortable starting point and to be able to pick out the subtle differences and I don't recommend anyone just start tuning their own cars unless they have a clear understanding of the previous information and the relationship between timing fuel and boost.
To make VirtualDyno as repeatable as possible, always use the same exact stretch of road to do your run and try to duplicate all of the conditions each time. Start the run at the same RPM and in the same gear every time. Check the air in your tires and feed the software the most accurate information you can when defining the profile. It should not be used to determine how much power you are making, but to see what the differences are between runs. Also try to do all of your tuning on the same day. Environment has a profound effect on the numbers