OEM Intake Question
- Thread starter jimoblivion
- Start date
jimoblivion
New member
It'll be in Saturday, I'm going to stay bone stock on the intake. Thanks for all the info guys!
jimoblivion
New member
I got the stock intake last night, got it installed about an hour ago. Took'r out for a spin and at first it seemed more herky-jerky, but probably due to having the stock intake on again as opposed to having the AEM (higher flow) intake. After I got the boost up to 11+, she smoothed right out. I'm guessing it was the ECU reaquainting itself w/the stock intake? So, this brings up another question. Is there anyway to tell if the ECU had been flashed for the AEM Intake, other than waiting for a CEL?
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
These are the steps you should have taken:
1) removed AEM intake
2) install stock intake
3) flash the car to the correct OTS MAP
4) let the car idle for 10 minutes
5) drive around normally for another 5-10 minutes
6) boost 5-10 psi to ensure everything calibrated correctly
7) i would advise AGAINST doing WOT runs
1) removed AEM intake
2) install stock intake
3) flash the car to the correct OTS MAP
4) let the car idle for 10 minutes
5) drive around normally for another 5-10 minutes
6) boost 5-10 psi to ensure everything calibrated correctly
7) i would advise AGAINST doing WOT runs
jimoblivion
New member
Ok. While I was taking the AEM off, I had the negative battery cable off. Once finished I hooked up the battery again, I let it idle for 5min. I then took about a 5-10 min drive before getting on the expressway. I had to accelerate to merge onto the expressway, I only got it up to 70ish MPH. I haven't put the AP on yet. I want to see if the CEL comes back on and I'll take it in to Subaru. My bumper to bumper ends sometime next year and if this CEL comes back, I want them to have a look at it while its under warranty. Once that's all taken care of I'll install the AP and the OTS Stage 1 Map.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Unhooking the battery reset the ECU which is fine as well. I cringe at the part where you didn't flash the car to the OTS map. Any idea if the car was ever tuned in the past? I looked back at the first post and I didn't see anything about the tune.
You should at the least hook up the AP and monitor data!
Assuming you have the V3 one that can live monitor six parameters at once:
Feedback knock
Fine knock learned
Manifold relative pressure (boost)
AFR sensor ratio
AFR correction 1
AFR learned 1
You should at the least hook up the AP and monitor data!
Assuming you have the V3 one that can live monitor six parameters at once:
Feedback knock
Fine knock learned
Manifold relative pressure (boost)
AFR sensor ratio
AFR correction 1
AFR learned 1
jimoblivion
New member
No, that's why I wrote the post. I wanted to know how I could check to see if it was already tuned. I've gotten a CEL three times, limp mode. Hill Assist/Cruise/CEL on. After reading about needing a tune w/an AEM Intake I sort of figured that is what was causing the CEL?
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Well if the car ever had an OTS or custom map through an AP in the past, you will never know as it gets erased and reverted to the stock one when you unmarry the AP.
If it was tuned through opensource, the tune could very well be on there, but you'd have to copy the rom that's on the ECU now to extract it and analyze it.
Please don't drive hard without an OTS map on in regards to safety.
If it was tuned through opensource, the tune could very well be on there, but you'd have to copy the rom that's on the ECU now to extract it and analyze it.
Please don't drive hard without an OTS map on in regards to safety.
jimoblivion
New member
I didn't think about Open Source, I figured the AP being unmarried would reset it back to stock. What's your opinion on me waiting to see if the CEL comes back on or should I just install the AP and add the OTS Map? My concern is the warrantyl
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
It's definitely possible that the car was never tuned and just had the AEM intake slapped on. When I got my car, I was on a stock tune with an AEM short ram intake and a turboXS BOV. Nevermind that though, those were different times in my youth that should never be looked back at other than from an experience standpoint.
My suggestion is to monitor those parameters that I listed without marrying the AP.
Make sure the car isn't knocking or running lean.
From what I gather from all your posts, you bought the car used and it had the following mods done to it by the previous owner:
-AEM intake
-muffler deletes
Everything else was stock? Do you know the previous owner? This sounds like he just slapped on parts without researching as MANY people do with these cars.
My suggestion is to monitor those parameters that I listed without marrying the AP.
Make sure the car isn't knocking or running lean.
From what I gather from all your posts, you bought the car used and it had the following mods done to it by the previous owner:
-AEM intake
-muffler deletes
Everything else was stock? Do you know the previous owner? This sounds like he just slapped on parts without researching as MANY people do with these cars.
jimoblivion
New member
So flashing the map is marrying it? I can put the AP on for the monitoring tool? No, don't know the owner. I got the car from a Chevy lot here in Rochester, the CarFax shows that the car is from PA originally.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
It's been a long time since I've used an AP as I've swithed to opensource. I recall that you can monitor data without marrying. Hook it up to the ECU and check if you can. Don't worry about marrying because have to go through 2 or 3 different verifications ensuring that you want to flash before it ever does.
jimoblivion
New member
And yes it came stock except for the deletes and AEM intake. Ok, will connect the AP and monitor. Right now I'm contemplating not running it at all this winter, until I can get this figured out somewhat.
jimoblivion
New member
Completly new, but I did have the v2 AP on my WRX, but that was all setup before I got it. I did play around in there w/the 0-60 and what not. It shouldn't be that hard to setup for that though. I've seen a lot of post about it, just never tried it on my own. Not talking trash or anything but I do tech support, so I know as long as I stay away from the maps, it should be okay?
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Yes, logging data doesn't do anything other than that: monitoring data. As long as the AP allows you to log and monitor without marrying to the ECU.
It goes the same for opensource: you can monitor data without ever flashing a rom on the car.
The sole purpose is to verify that the car is running correctly.
If you can get us a log, that would help everyone out. The only issue I have is that I can't view any logs, so someone else would have to help you out in that regard in the meantime. Go ensure that you can monitor and I'll get the parameters that you need to log for closed loop.
It goes the same for opensource: you can monitor data without ever flashing a rom on the car.
The sole purpose is to verify that the car is running correctly.
If you can get us a log, that would help everyone out. The only issue I have is that I can't view any logs, so someone else would have to help you out in that regard in the meantime. Go ensure that you can monitor and I'll get the parameters that you need to log for closed loop.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Accessport closed loop parameters:
-A/F correction #1 (STFT)
-A/F learned #1 (LTFT)
-A/F sensor ratio
-Barometric pressure (atmosphere)
-Calculated load
-Close/open loop switch (CL/OL status)
-Engine speed (RPM)
-Feedback knock
-Fine learned knock
-Manifold Relative Pressure (boost)
-Mass airflow voltage (MAF voltage)
-Throttle position
Log about 15-20 minutes of normal city and highway driving with slight boost (~5 psi) and then let idle for 3 minutes. Make sure you don't get any more than -2 feedback knock WHILE boosting. If you see it go past -2, you should cease boosting immediately! AFR should be ~14.7 during idle and normal driving. AFR should be anywhere from 10.0-13.5 during boost. It heavily depends on the tune and I know the stock one is crap. :lol:
-A/F correction #1 (STFT)
-A/F learned #1 (LTFT)
-A/F sensor ratio
-Barometric pressure (atmosphere)
-Calculated load
-Close/open loop switch (CL/OL status)
-Engine speed (RPM)
-Feedback knock
-Fine learned knock
-Manifold Relative Pressure (boost)
-Mass airflow voltage (MAF voltage)
-Throttle position
Log about 15-20 minutes of normal city and highway driving with slight boost (~5 psi) and then let idle for 3 minutes. Make sure you don't get any more than -2 feedback knock WHILE boosting. If you see it go past -2, you should cease boosting immediately! AFR should be ~14.7 during idle and normal driving. AFR should be anywhere from 10.0-13.5 during boost. It heavily depends on the tune and I know the stock one is crap. :lol:
jimoblivion
New member
I was thinking about something this morning that slipped my mind yesterday. It may or maynot be anything but wanted to throw it in there. See the pic below. When installing the stock intake I found the piece in the pic below still attached to the car. Any idea what it is or what it does? In the videos I looked at for removing the stock intake, they all took it out and on the end that connects to the bulkhead they put some type of cap on it. Is it possible this piece was causing problems as well?
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g188/jimoblivion/A Car Stuff/DSC01161.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g188/jimoblivion/A Car Stuff/DSC01160.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g188/jimoblivion/A Car Stuff/DSC01161.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g188/jimoblivion/A Car Stuff/DSC01160.jpg
jimoblivion
New member
Just an update, this morning I decided to just put the Stage 1 Map on. I was doing some casual driving around and I'm getting better gas mileage w/the stock filter than w/the AEM Intake. Going out to flash it now! Thanks guys!
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