R3V's 2006 World Rally Blue WRX STI

[R3V]

The Madman.

Finally, the long journey with my STI can begin. This is my first car that I will go all out on and become what I have always wanted, a track monster. This is the first car where I will do as much of the work myself as possible, and learn as much as I can both through my own experience and through the help of the immensely knowledgeable people who help me on my way.

I'm not into naming cars, but for all that it is and what it's worth a name stuck out for my STI: I call it "The Madman."

Let's set a tempo here:

t3h_Clap's Wheel33tist Blog

Table of Contents (Not functional until I transfer my posts over)

1. Car and Garage Modifications list, and intro. You are here.
2. First Round of mods - Stage 2 + Brakes, Wheels, and Tires
3. Stage 2 Parts Assembled - COBB Stage 1, WRC Mod, and Wheel Update
4. Downpipe installed, rotors/pads changed, oil change, stage 2 impressions.
5. Invidia N1 Catless, Turboback vs. Catback
6. My Tech Index.
7. Engine + Rotated Planning, Stage 2+ Organization.
8. January 8, 2012 Photoshoot
9. January 13, 2012 - EFI Logics Protune
10. February 21, 2012 - End of Winter Planning
11. February 28, 2012 - Beginning of Spring Tweaking
12. February 29, 2012 - General Path Planning.

The Mod List:
Installed
Waiting Install
Ordered
Wanted

Engine Management
*COBB AccessPORT
*Stage 2 Protune from EFI Logics - 279whp/301wtq.


Engine
*APS BOV - Full Recirc
*Invidia N1 Race CBE
*Invidia Bellmouth Catless Downpipe
*AEM Cold Air Intake
*Walbo 255lph Fuel Pump
*Grimmspeed EBCS
*NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs
*KillerB Oil Pickup
*Moroso Oil Catch Can/Separator
*APS Inlet
*KS Tech 73mm Intake
*Exhaust Manifold - Either EL or LiteSpeed UEL.
*EWG Up-pipe
*TGV Deletes
*IXIZ Phenolic Spacers
*Tial 38mm EWG


Suspension/Drivetrain
*RCE Front Swaybar
*RCE Rear Swaybar
*Kartboy Endlinks
*Fortune 500 Series Coilover W/Swift 9K/8K Springs
*TiC Lateral Link Bushings
*TiC Trailing Arm Bushings
*TiC Clunk Killer Bushings
*Front Control Arm Bushing
*Offset Caster Bushing
*Kartboy Short Throw Shifter
*Shifter bushings + Tranny crossmember bushing
*Whiteline RCA Kit
*TiC X-Brace
*Cusco Rear Trailing Arm
*Cucso Front Lateral Links
*GT Spec Front Strut Tower Bar


Exterior
*Subtle Solutions STI Front Plate Delete
*JNA Polyethylene front lip
*04/05 Tail light Swap with WRC conversion
*GrimmSpeed Front Plate Relocation Bracket
*Wingless Trunk


Interior
*JVC KW-AVX840 7' Touchscreen Headunit
*When I want to spend $100 bucks on a holder: Apple iPhone 4 / 4S used with a Case - Adjustable Holder with Tilt Swivel and Pass-Through Connector with horizontal support*-*ProClip Car Mounts for Mobile Phones, GPS, and Handheld Devices


Wheels, Tires & Brakes
*18x8.5 +45 Advan RZ's
*235/40/18 StarSpec Z1's
*Centric High Carbon Front Rotors
*Centric High Carbon Rear Rotors
*Ferodo DS2500 Pads


Garage:
*BendPak XPR-10 2 Post in home garage lift
*Two In wall wheel/tire racks..

 

[Grinder34]

I copied your wrc tailights mod. I think that was you? I didnt cut any wires on the lights though, just the bulbs.

Also, i wanted the killerb oil pickup, but ended up going with the tigwerks one. Its about half the price (i cant be bothered right now to look it up...netbooks suck for some things), and should be as good.

Edit: it looks like it was you! Post it up to the how-to section. I can add info about the bulb if you'd like (not that it's that difficult).

 

[R3V]

Well done. Makes me want to swap over to the 04/05 tail lights now. The 06/07 are just.. well.. I think they're ugly lol.

I totally agree. Some like the 06's since they are gunmetal and not chrome. I sold mine for the same price as I paid for my 05's.

I copied your wrc tailights mod. I think that was you? I didnt cut any wires on the lights though, just the bulbs.

Also, i wanted the killerb oil pickup, but ended up going with the tigwerks one. Its about half the price (i cant be bothered right now to look it up...netbooks suck for some things), and should be as good.

Edit: it looks like it was you! Post it up to the how-to section. I can add info about the bulb if you'd like (not that it's that difficult).

Ah thanks for reminding me, I'm working on transferring all my useful stuff over. I love the WRC mod. What did you do to the bulb? I opted to cut the wire because that way the light still functions under braking.

 

[R3V]

Added: http://www.igotasti.com/vBforum/showthread.php?3279-WRC-Tail-Light-Mod

 

[Grinder34]

I added my 2? to that thread

 

[R3V]

Much obliged. That's a neat trick that I didn't think of. Very cool.

 

[R3V]

Final list of parts being picked up/ordered tomorrow:

• 18x8.5 +45 Advan RZ's
• 235/40/18 StarSpec Z1's
• Ben's AccessPORT
• 2005 STI Tail lights
• GrimmSpeed EBCS
• Walbro 255lph Pump
• NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs
• After MAF Hose
• New Filter for my AEM intake
• Centric High Carbon Front Rotors
• Centric Premium Rear Rotors
• Ferodo DS2500 Brake Pads
• Grimmspeed Licenseplate relocation kit

I don't think I'm forgetting anything. Merry Christmas to me!

 

[R3V]

Update


This is a more formal update to add to my table-o-contents.


Flashed to COBB OTS Stage 1 for the stock intake last night, and I am impressed. I don't feel a huge increase in power or anything, but I do definitely feel an enormous improvement in the overall feel of the car. It is MUCH smoother, and power comes on a bit sooner which is nice.


I've assembled all parts needed for my ProTune, and over the weekend I'll be installing my downpipe and intake to flash to COBB Stage 2. My protune will come about 2 or so months down the road. As I stated in previous posts I will be doing the GrimmSpeed EBCS for better boost control, a 255lph fuel pump, NGK 1 step colder plugs for engine safety (EFI recommended), and a COBB Afta MAF tube that was on sale, so why not.


I have my summer wheel and tire setup courtesy of Kilya, who hooked me up with great condition Advans and StarSpec Z1's :devil: so no matter what issues I have, grip and sexiness won't be one of them. :lol:


I also have a GrimmSpeed plate relocation bracket on the way, and a JVC AVX840 head unit which should be a great setup. My swap to 05 tails is complete, and I did the WRC mod which I think is awesome looking and much cooler then the JDM mod, especially if you do a LED bulb in the center housing. WRC mod can be seen here:

 

[R3V]

Downpipe installed, rotors/pads changed, oil change, stage 2 impressions.

Today was a success! Installed my new pads and rotors all around. Stops great! The last owner was actually already using the pads I have, so the difference I can tell is a combination of the rotors + new brakes. They are pretty quiet considering.


Big thanks to T3h_Clap for all advice given. If I'm ever in his area, I'm taking that dude out for a nice steak dinner.


Decided against doing the AEM intake and running it on the COBB map since the risk outweighs the value. That being said, I've read a lot on these forums that going to stage 2 is like driving a totally different car. They are right. This no longer feels anything like stock, it is a HUGE improvement. Power all the time, and the sound of my full TBE N1 race is simply amazing. I highly suggest it. I'll be scheduling my protune with EFI tomorrow, and hopefully within the next two weeks the car will be all set and in a nice safe/reliable/happy place.


Also did an oil change (Mobil 1 5w30) and changed my windshield wipers

 

[R3V]

Invidia N1 Race Full Catless Turboback vs. Catback

So, now that I figured out how to title individual posts I thought I'd throw up my thoughts on the differences between then N1 Race with the cat-back portion only, and the full turbo back. I'd like my journal to start containing more useful material, both for myself to look back on and for others to learn from, rather than being full of the rambling thoughts I tend to have. :lol:


Now keep in mind, the Cat-Back Exhaust (CBE) Is largely a question of preference, as power is added from the downpipe. Additionally, there are little differences in terms of power between catted vs. catless downpipes according to Pete over at EFI Logics. If your more interested in knowning about catted vs. catless downpipes, simply do a search and get reading. Choosing a CBE is largely based on sound and appearance.


The N1 exhaust is actually what first called my attention to STi's. The rumble (caused by the unequal length of the exhaust manifold as I learned later, not the flat boxer style of the motor). I remember it distinctly, a blacked out hawkeye (06/07) STi pulled up to WaWa back when I had my VR-4 Gallant, this is when I still knew little about cars, and I remember being massively impressed at the noise coming from the black car with the parking bench and hood scoop. I looked at the exhaust and love both the angle that it came out on and that it was not as big as some other exhaust I have seen.


After buying my STI it was naturally the first change I made, swapping my APS CBE for a Invidia N1 race. The sound was much more aggressive then the APS, and the volume increased 5x over the APS which makes the N1 about 8x over stock. The tone, rumble, styling, and noise at WOT make this my personal favorite of the GD exhaust options. Not so large as to be a melon cannon (coughHKScough), but just as vocal with a much better appearance.


I have seen on this and other forums many times questions such as "How much louder does the downpipe make it?" or "Does it change the tone", "Will it drone too much?" etc. Upon installing my Invidia catless bellmouth style downpipe, I discovered that the things that initially made me choose the N1 were magnified. I'd say overall its now 10x louder then stock. The rumble is still there, but more aggressive sounding. The overall tone is retained, and the volume isn't massively "magnified" but it is louder. It's as if I've uncorked the exhaust. It carries farther and hits harder. A slight rasp is added which I feel only adds to the overall appeal of the exhaust, giving it a very aggressive tone. If you are nervous of this sort of thing, simply opt for a catted exhaust. The drone added over the CBE is minimal, if you can live with the CBE portion then the full TBE will not bother you. For the sound (and the wild performance of adding a 3 inch downpipe) accept no substitutes.

 

[R3V]

My Index

*Work in progress*​

I started this over on IWSTI, and thus a fair amount of the links are to threads over there. This forum has as much or more solid technical info, but I'm not about to page through and swap it all over ATM.

I've asked all the stupid questions, started all the repeat threads, and pretty much done every "noob" move possible. I soon learned that simply searching for and taking the time to read and understand the vast mounds of material that lay before me was a much better means of answering my questions and that understanding the reasoning behind a decision was far superior then just having someone spoon feed me their interpretation of what was best for the given situation.


New to Forums? Start here:

• Stages?
• So you've gone stage 2. Now what?

Engine Tuning/Modding Basics:

• Perrin's COBB AccessPORT Guide.
• Planning to upgrade the turbo? Read this before your start.
• So you want 400whp?
• Getting Started with Tuning and Logging.
• How to read Data Logs.
• How to make useful Data Logs.
• Want an External Wastegate but can't determine the appropriate size?
• Tuning Methods.
• TGV Delete?
• Camshafts!

Engine Basics:

• The Spark Plug.
• How to read spark plugs.
• Camshaft Timing.
• Changing your oil and Common Oil Misconceptions.
• Basic CamShaft Understanding
• Engine Cooling.
• Crankshafts
• Engine Timing.
• Compression Testing.
• Intake Manifolds.
• Exhaust Flow and Tuning.
• Fuel Injectors.
• Oil Weights and Viscosity.
• Cold Air Intake Design.
• Horsepower vs. Torque.
• Oil Cooler Design Basics.
• Engine Intake + Exhaust Valves.
• The Flywheel.
• Valve Springs.
• Pistons.
• Piston Rings.
• Slave Cylinder and Throwout Bearing.
• Front Mount Intercooler. (FMIC)

Advanced Engine Building/Cooling/Tuning:

• Turbine Guys AWIC.
• Intake Runner Length Tuning.
• Wiring a fuel pump relay.
• Valve Seals and Springs.
• Static vs. Dynamic Compression Ratio.
• E85.
• NASIOC's E85 Army.
• Tuning A/F Mixtures.
• Cooling Mods that work.
• Cam Gear Tuning.
• NOS, Wet vs. Dry.
• Understanding Nitrous Oxide.
• Electronic Power Steering.
• Engine Blueprinting.
• Exhaust Cutouts.
• Surge Tanks.
• Fuel Line Basics + Ethanol, Alcohol, Methanol Prep.
• NOS Fogger Systems.
• Dry Sump Oiling System.
• High Performance Traction Control.
• Motor Break in.
• Building up the heads.

Drivetrain:

• Carbon Fiber or Aluminum Driveshaft? RSD has you covered. and also here.

Suspension:

• STI Weight Distribution vs. Fuel Load.
• STI Suspension Buyers Guide.
  
  
  
  Suspension Discussion: (From Strechs Notes.)
• TiC Coilover Development Thread
• Critical Damping Analysis of many coilovers for the STI
• All lowering springs (and even stock springs) ride on the bump stops!
• Another major problem found with many lowering springs: coil bind
• Can you pick up more suspension travel with new coilover spring? Coil bind revisited.
• The complexities of tires in suspension design and tuning
• How stiff are your sway bars really?
• Sway bars and total spring rates (why sway bars sometimes do too much)
• Damper tuning and dyno graph discussion
• Damper design, twin-tube versus monotube
• The stock struts are perfectly damped (to everyone's surprise?)
• Neat trick to improve your suspension geometry
• Lifting the inside rear wheel- who cares?
• Spring frequency calculator
• Suspension Calculator! Weight transfer, spring frequency, damper, body roll calculator, and more!
• I don't like progressive springs, why do you?

Wheels Tires and Alignment: (I realize alignment is more in the suspension department)

• How to properly roll the fenders of a 2005-2007 WRX/STI.
• Performance Street Alignment, the right way.
• Aggressive Fitment
• Camberbolts, what they are and what they do.

See something useful that's not in here but should be? Send me a PM with the link and I'll add it to the appropriate section.

 

[R3V]

Engine Build + Rotated Planning, Stage 2+ Organization.

So I'll start this out by setting a list of parameters that I feel are totally achievable. This car is going to stop being my DD as soon as possible since I have to drive a considerable amount each day, and the work I plan on putting into the car would make it both impractical and inconvenient since I want to do as much of it myself as I can which would be difficult if I'm driving most days of the week. I plan on having one shop build, install, and tune the block/turbo so that I don't have multiple people to deal with. All the remaining work will be done by myself. There is no real timeline on this, but I expect to have the car paid off entirely within the next few years and a DD of some sort in half that time.


I am getting pro-tuned by EFI Logics in 1 week. Provided I like how everything goes (I'd be shocked if I didn't) then they will be handling anything that I am not up to from here on out.


What I currently have:

• AEM CAI
• Catless bellmouth downpipe
• EBCS
• 1 step colder plugs
• 255lph pump
• APS BPV.
• AP Stage 2 (Protune next week)

I plan on doing a bit more to the car by opening up the "breathing" capacity of the stock turbo. To do this:

• AMR Hard Inlet
• Litespeed UEL Header
• Up-pipe with EWG (yes I know I'll have to swap the header and up pipe later)
• 38mm EWG
• TGV Deletes
• I'll also work on harness/cage/harness bar at this time.

Those modifications should allow for excellent spool and drive ability while pretty much, to my understanding, maxing the stock turbo out. It is with this setup that I will begin consistently doing track days, since it would be unwise of me to jump into it with anything more. I plan on doing some days before this setup, but I won't want to be serious with it until I can do more then just a CG lock.


I plan on using this on the street, and at the track. Drag racing holds zero interest for me, so we are talking a majority being road courses and the occasional AutoX. What you should take from this is that:

• Spool is important. I want an accessible powerband.
• What I do NOT want is a 600whp monster that doesnt hit full boost until 5K rpm.
• Numbers are not specifically what I'm looking for, what I want is an excellent range of power.
• That being said, I feel since I am doing the build I want to break well into the 400whp/wtq range.

This is my baby, and if I have it my way I'll never sell it. Everything being done will NOT be pushed to the limit. Build it for 100% power, and run it at 80%.


Now there is a lot that goes into an engine build, as I'm sure many of us know. What seems to be the most logical path is to first go rotated on the stock block, and push it a fair amount. Since it will not be my DD I feel that spacing going rotated and building the block is the best path, since it involves spending less at any given time, the engine can pop and I can take my time with the build, and will allow me to appreciate each step as well as document the gains/advantages/disadvantages that would be less apparent if everything was done at once.


The Turbo


I want rotated from the start. None of this stock location business. There are a ton of options for this, and I would really love some input as to what others have experienced.


Blouch 2.5xtr Seen on SeaofGreen's 2007 STi.


GT3076 Seen on FourSeasonSandles car with a RalliSpec Street series block. Makes solid power and seems to have excellent drivability. In the link he's comparing various setups.


Garrett GTX3576R New, but by the time I go rotated will definitely have a few dozen dynos floating around. Dspin posted a thread talking about it here. This looks like it will make 35R power while retaining 30R spool which would be very nice, but I'm unsure is this sizable turbo would be beneficial for my goals.


HTA3586


EFR 7670Similar to above, comes packaged with everything needed. Which is awesome.


I'm sure there are more options, but I want to open this up to suggestions (keep in mind my goals) and researching more options will take a great deal of time.


Motor


Rallispec seems the way to go with their street series block. At a cost of only $3,500 its affordable. That being said EFI does do their own motor which I believe consists of a stock shortblock and they do forged internals, whatever cams best match the turbo, etc.


On the subject of cams, I'm going to try and match the cams and valve springs to the characteristics of the turbo. I want to decide on the turbo before building the engine so that I can try and maximize the "harmony". I also thing I'll be swapping to KillerB's EL header when I build the block, since it pretty much sets the standard.


Obviously there's a lot more that needs to go into this, but I want input on it all sooner rather then later so feel free to critique and offer direction.

 

[R3V]

January 8, 2012 - Princeton Quick Photoshoot

Photobomb:

 

[R3V]

January 13, 2012 - EFI Logics Protune

Time for a nice full update:


So this prior Friday (1/13/2012) I took the 2 1/2 hour drive up to Bethel CT to EFI Logics for my first ever protune. The drive up there I took the George Washington bridge o) which put me through the top of NYC. It was fun, on my stiff full suspension. I was pulled over shortly after leaving the city on my way out of NY by two officers who informed me that my exhaust was illegal in the state of NY, as it was "way too freaking loud". :lol: Needless to say, I took the long way home.


Eventually I made it up to EFI, where I met Pete and saw the shop for the first time. I met everyone up there throughout the day and was impressed by how nice everyone was, so needless to say my first impression was very good. There were a lot of really really nice cars there too. Pete was very nice and got us situated and had the car pulled in by Jack nice and quick. It took awhile to get everything installed and on the dyno, but they had plenty of stuff going on and I liked (staring creepily through the windows) watching everything going on.


I got the chance to talk to a few other customers of EFI's for awhile which was pretty cool, and talked with Amy (StripesRX) for a few hours while she visited EFI. Excellent meeting everyone!


Once I finally got on the dyno, I ended up making 279whp and 301wtq. Chris advised me that my older model AEM cold air intake was actually choking off power, and that swapping to another intake would gain between 10/15whp. For this reason, I plan on swapping to a KSTech intake around June.


The drive home was AWESOME. There is much more power then simply stage 2, and it comes on so smooth and hard it surprises me how quickly I'm accidentally going way too fast :devil:


I give EFI Logics a 10/10.


On a different note, finding out my intake was robbing me of power was a little bit :banghead:. I'm taking this as an excuse to do:


Exhaust Manifold
New Inlet
JDM TGV's
KSTech 73mm Intake
Phenolic Spacers
ID1000's


I was also advised by Jack that my front sway bar was unlike any design he had ever seen. The popping and groaning I had heard (which I thought were my endlinks/coilovers) is actually the odd design of my sway bar, so I'll be switching that out with something new as well as new endlink bushings in the rear.

 

[R3V]

February 21, 2012 - End of Winter Update

Time for a nice little update!


I've solved 99% of the binding from my front coilovers by adding an additional 1/4 inch of preload. This makes me VERY happy. They still bind occasionally, but that's to be expected from any aftermarket coil. I also cleaned them all off with an air gun which helped get rid of the creaking from the front right, since the construction near my house led to lots of crap getting stuck in my springs. I am now quite happy with these coils, and for the money I'd be hard pressed to find a better setup. I am still waiting on brake line brackets, but my temporary solution is very solid so I feel no rush.


Swapping my winter bumper out for my summer in the next two weeks as well as putting my Advans back on and getting the car corner balanced. I have some neat things coming for my center console, dash cluster, vent surrounds, and A/B/C pillars coming soon that should be eye grabbing and pretty cool. I just need to start gathering the pieces I'm going to use for it, and set aside a weekend to make it happen.


I'm super excited to get the car in summer mode and do a few visual tweaks. I want to get my tint re-done, since I have a permit that allows me to have it done on my front windows (terrible eyesight) in NJ. I also plan on a full detail and undercarriage cleaning to get the gunk out from winter. There will be TONS of photos from shoots of individual cars, track days, and meets this spring/summer which is exciting.


I also fixed my exhaust leak so my car sounds much better, it was making a farting noise when I got on it. :lol:

 

[R3V]

Beginning of spring tweaking.

So I decided now that with the insanely warm winter we are having coming to an end, and it being in the 50's and 60's here now I'd swap my wheels over to my summers since my winters are totally fried.

I had a local alignment shop give me -1.5 all around, and harmonic balance my wheels. They also swapped out my RCE swaybar for a whiteline. I think that when messing with my car they changed the preload on my front suspension however, since my front right coil is now binding and creaking like an old hooker. I'll need to pull the wheels off and check for myself which I'll do this weekend. I think I'm going to start taking my car to AZP Installs (the subaru performance shop that organizes the ride along's at WBM, and an excellent place to get worked on) for all the suspension tweaking. I plan on scheduling a corner balance/oil change in the next 3 weeks.

In other news, I had my nice scratchless summer bumper at my parents house for storage. This was apparently a mistake as it got shoved (face down) into the crawl space in my basement. Now it needs a full re-paint. Fortunately, one of my best friends owns a body shop so I'll be having it shaved (the plate bracket) and re-painted with my fenders/hood blended to match.

I'm also going from M1 to Motul 5W-30 for my next oil change as M1 is giving me more oil in my IC than I find acceptable and will be installing the Moroso dual catch/AO separator setup.

 

[Paul.c]

Why did you go with just 235 star specs? Why not wider? Fuel economy? With an 8.5 rim you could easily go 255. Just wondering.

 

[Grinder34]

Why did you go with just 235 star specs? Why not wider? Fuel economy? With an 8.5 rim you could easily go 255. Just wondering.

I thought much wider than a 235 would require fender rolling? If not, I'll have to do 255s next!

 

[R3V]

Why did you go with just 235 star specs? Why not wider? Fuel economy? With an 8.5 rim you could easily go 255. Just wondering.

They came on the wheels for free, so I wasn't going to argue.

I thought much wider than a 235 would require fender rolling? If not, I'll have to do 255s next!

It will require fender work, but I'm considering running 255/35/18's next. I'm leaning toward pilot SS's sometime around June.


These are more of a DD suited wheel choice. Once my car is off of daily duty, I'll be selling these and using the cash to fund some fender flares + at least a 10.5 wheel.

 

[R3V]

General Path Planning

I thought I'd take some time and really lay out my plans for the car within the next few years. For reference, I'm 22 years old and make pretty good money for someone my age without a college degree, but I am on a "budget build". My main priories now are paying off my debt and getting back into school. Everything here come's second to that. That being said, I'm going to do this right and take my time. I will not fill this car with hasty unplanned and ill advised decisions and parts.

I would VERY much appreciate input and general guidance.

Spring/Summer 2012:

My original goals for this spring/summer season were to get my ass to NJMP and some AutoX days. Given my current situation with the car, and lack of a daily, I am debating cutting the amount of track days down to only 1 or 2 since I can't afford to have my car go down right now. I currently drive 70 miles per day, so the wear on my STI is already fairly high considering I want to keep the car for the next decade or more. I think these are the main things I now want to accomplish with my STI this season:

• Boost, AFR (serial connected), EGT, Oil Temp, and Oil Pressure gauges. Debating Prosport Evo's pretty strongly. No peak/warning is my main hesitation now.
• My summer bumper needs to be re-sprayed and the plate frame is getting shaved. My lip is also getting painted black at that time.
• BaysonR CS Style Side Skirts
• Blacked out headliner, custom ABC pillars and center console.
• Blacked out headlights with Halo's.
• Custom fog lights that also serve as brake ducts.
• Moroso Dual Oil Catch/Separator

Winter 2012/2013:

This coming summer/winter I hope to move form apartment living to renting a house with some friends. Fortunately, we are all into cars and are all willing to look hard + pay a bit more for a place with a large garage. Moving from an apt to a house with a garage will allow me to work on my own car, and for that reason I plan on adding some more parts to the car for both safety + power. I'd like to add:

• KillerB or Tigwerks Oil Pickup + baffle tray + pan.
• 1000+CC injectors & Fuel system overhaul
• Delete my TGV's
• KS Tech 73mm intake
• Phenolic Spacers
• EWG + up-pipe
• Exhaust Manifold. Either an EL, or the Litespeed UEL.
• Turbo Inlet

Spring/Summer 2013:

Since I am putting off the track until this season, I plan on focusing on suspension/tires/brakes/and safety while learning how to be a fast driver with a fast car. Intended modifications are:

• Quick ratio steering rack and D shaped wheel.
• Racing fixed back bucket seats
• Harness's with either a harness bar or 4 point rear (removable) cage.
• Every bushing TiC sells.
• KB Short Shifter

Beyond:

Once the car is pretty much paid for, or I have a reliable DD and a place to store the car, I want to pull and build the motor. I'm aiming to build it for 500whp+ but only run it at around 450-500 since I doubt my driving will be to the point that the car is holding me back. My goal is to have a street legal race car. I don't want to lose being able to drive it on winding mountain roads with the windows down, but I also want it fully built to handle weekend after weekend doing HPDE's and such. Obviously with having it so built up, maintenance/logging is crucial and even then things WILL break. I understand that.

Another thing happening around this time is that I will be flaring my fenders and going for an extremely aggressive wheel/tire combo. I honestly would do this this summer, except the flares are really not meant for a DD car and I wouldn't want to spend the money on them just to invariably have them damaged or destroyed. Plus the idea of running a 10.5 wheel every day is laughable.