Rich idle and -25 correction

[_Broken_WRX_]

First thing's first, have you performed a boost leak test yet?

If this issue began only when the TMIC was removed and put back on, then I'd imagine it being one of two points: the throttle body to TMIC coupler or the turbo to TMIC coupler. A third would be the y-pipe, but I'm assuming that wasn't messed with. It would have to be a mechanical issue if the car was fine beforehand.

Looks like you have a Cobb AP. I'd suggest you monitor some parameters and check if anything seems to be off regardless, but you really need to perform a boost leak test first.

You can monitor things like, but I don't know if it'll help:

(You already mentioned AFR was whack.)
-Roughness Monitor Cylinder 1
-Roughness Monitor Cylinder 2
-Roughness Monitor Cylinder 3
-Roughness Monitor Cylinder 4
-Injector duty cycle
-Injector Pulse Width
-Injector Latency

Do you have a wideband installed post turbo in your downpipe O2 bung?

You can also check the physical spark plugs, coil packs, any loose connections around the engine bay. The intake, turbo, EBCS, and other various connections.

Honestly, you have to begin with a boost leak test! It's extremely difficult to suggest things form behind a computer screen.

Get us a video or some pictures of the engine bay in the meantime as well.

Ill do a boost leak test tomorrow. I dont have a wideband. What should I look for under roughness? My injectors arent really close to maxed out but my fuel pump reads 100 percent duty cycle at points, is this normal? Ill take a video tomorrow and post it to this thread. Thanks


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[Alin]

Well, I only suggested those parameters that came to mind. Roughness shows if you're knocking as if maybe timing were off, a sticking injector, or bad coil pack.

However, IGNORE them for now. your PRIORITY is the boost leak test since you haven't done so yet!

Tell me more about how the car behaved prior to the TMIC being removed. Did everything function correctly as intended?



Edit: I'm looking over your previous threads and it seems you've only had issues with the car. Where are you located? Also, pictures are going to help out tremendously. You don't have a clear list of modifications anywhere. We need more information in order to help you solve your issues.

 

[_Broken_WRX_]

Well, I only suggested those parameters that came to mind. Roughness shows if you're knocking as if maybe timing were off, a sticking injector, or bad coil pack.

However, IGNORE them for now. your PRIORITY is the boost leak test since you haven't done so yet!

Tell me more about how the car behaved prior to the TMIC being removed. Did everything function correctly as intended?

Peak boost is set at 19 psi in the weeks before I dropped off the car to get the trans replaced I noticed that it was only able to reach abt 16 or so on a good day. When I got the car it would sometimes even reach 20. When I got the car back it felt much slower and it would stutter and lean out under boost. I did a couple smoke tests on it and found a few things that were leaking around the intercooler. That made it a little but better until recently when it started dying at stoplights and such.

Ive monitored things like knock sum and feedback knock under boost before and they seem normal. Are those comparable to roughness?


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[Alin]

If you got the car during winter, then these cars tend to overboost with denser/colder air, especially with a catless downpipe. Before we speculate any further, you have to perform the boost leak test. That has to be done and is number one priority at the moment. We'll go over the remainder of things after you've performed the boost leak test because we may be getting ahead of ourselves unnecessarily on aspects that may not even need attention.

I edited my previous post. Please compile a list of all of the modifications that you're aware of. All of them! Get us pictures as well. Also, where are you located? I'd imagine one of us could come check the car out in person if you're not too far away from one of us.

 

[_Broken_WRX_]

If you got the car during winter, then these cars tend to overboost with denser/colder air, especially with a catless downpipe. Before we speculate any further, you have to perform the boost leak test. That has to be done and is number one priority at the moment. We'll go over the remainder of things after you've performed the boost leak test because we may be getting ahead of ourselves unnecessarily on aspects that may not even need attention.

I edited my previous post. Please compile a list of all of the modifications that you're aware of. All of them! Get us pictures as well. Also, where are you located? I'd imagine one of us could come check the car out in person if you're not too far away from one of us.

Engine(built at 102k):
Fully built shortblock 99.75 bore
STi nitrided crankshaft
Manley 99.75 platinum pistons
Manley H-beam rods
King Race rod bearings
Factory main bearings
STi oil pump
Tigwerks oil pickup
Fully ported heads
EGR & SAI delete
TGV delete
Clutchmasters FX350 clutch
Aluminum radiator
VF52 upgrade
Turbosmart IWG75 wastegate actuator

Fueling:
ID1000s
AEM320 fuel pump (ethanol safe)

Bolt-ons:
Perrin cold air intake
Process west verticooler(installed 1000miles ago)
Turbosmart kompact recirc bov
Moroso dual oil catch cans
Agency power Equal length headers (wrapped)
Cobb catted down pipe (wrapped)
Muffler delete done at local shop
Perrin Turbo heat shield


Im located in Charleston SC that would be great if one of yall were close by. Thanks


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[_Broken_WRX_]

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[Alin]

I don't think any of the active members that I'm aware of reside near you, unfortunately.

I don't know the exact ins and outs of the 08-14 WRX since the layout changed in comparison to the STi, but you need to locate the EBCS and check those lines as well. According to your modifications list, you're still running the stock boost controller?

Based on your second picture:

 

[_Broken_WRX_]

I would assume its the stock ecbs although im not even sure where its located. I think its the thing next to the alternator though. I just went through and centered up that line and tightened it. I reset the ecu again in hopes it would help and not much changed. Ill try the boost leak test tomorrow...


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[Alin]

Alright, then we'll wait for an update after you perform the boost leak test.

 

[_Broken_WRX_]

So it seems like I found the issue. I did a smoke test because that was all I could do at the time and didnt find anything. But I had to take off my intake and tape it up so that pressure wouldent leak out of the filter. In the process of putting it back together I found that one of my clamps was stripped out and wasnt holding very well. So I fixed that and reset the ecu again and now it is much better. The idle is way smoother and correction is basically normal at idle. I havent gotten a chance to do a WOT pull yet but it made 16 psi at about 2/3 throttle so im assuming it will get close to peak boost. Also I found out that I have an AEM ecbs and I made sure all those lines were tight.
Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Woohooo! Great!

Try not to flog it too badly until you are certain that everything is okay.

 

[Alin]

What do you mean by "tape up the intake?" Why is it leaking? If the filter is damaged and compromised, you need to get a new one ASAP. Also, don't go WOT if your car isn't in fully functional condition! I hope you know the procedure that you need to go through whenever you reset the ECU in order for the car to learn the parameters anew correctly.

I don't recall there ever being an AEM EBCS and a quick search doesn't net back any results... Take a picture of the EBCS.

 

[_Broken_WRX_]

I put the hose for the smoke tester in the line for the brake booster and if I dont tape up the intake tube all the pressure leaks out. I let it idle for abt 10 mins after the reset to let it relearn.


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[_Broken_WRX_]

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[Alin]

Alright, gotcha.

Looks like that's a universal 3 port EBCS.
https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/boost-controllers/boost-control-solenoid#buy-direct

Where is the EBCS located in the 08-14 WRX, by the way?

I'd suggest you drive at least another 30 minutes with light load and little boost (~5 PSI) before you attempt a full WOT run. Please monitor knock whenever you do the WOT run and abort if it exceeds 2 degrees for longer than 1.5-2 seconds.

 

[_Broken_WRX_]

Alright, gotcha.

Looks like that's a universal 3 port EBCS.
https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/boost-controllers/boost-control-solenoid#buy-direct

Where is the EBCS located in the 08-14 WRX, by the way?

I'd suggest you drive at least another 30 minutes with light load and little boost (~5 PSI) before you attempt a full WOT run. Please monitor knock whenever you do the WOT run and abort if it exceeds 2 degrees for longer than 1.5-2 seconds.

What parameter would exceed 2 degrees? Feedback knock?


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[Alin]

Yes, that is the parameter you want to monitor. Which version of the Cobb AP do you have?

 

[_Broken_WRX_]

Yes, that is the parameter you want to monitor. Which version of the Cobb AP do you have?

The v2... rip. Also the ecbs is on the back left side of the intake manifold.


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[Alin]

Give us an update later on with how the car is behaving during normal driving and partial boost. I'd recommend you keep WOT's at a minimum. In reality, there are very few circumstances where WOT is necessary.

 

[_Broken_WRX_]

Give us an update later on with how the car is behaving during normal driving and partial boost. I'd recommend you keep WOT's at a minimum. In reality, there are very few circumstances where WOT is necessary.

I know what you mean. I havent floored the car in about 2 months tbh. Mainly bc it was super broken but still.


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