Round 2: My 2015 Galaxy Blue Journal
- Thread starter Eagleye
- Start date
Eagleye
Tinkerer
Yeah my Dad's Pinto was moving pretty good (and consistent) yesterday with runs of 9.67 9.68 and 9.70. Not bad for a 90* day in a stick shift small block alcohol Ford.
Holy crap on a cracker! 
eelout:
eelout:
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
@Eagleye , I know you're big into cycling and wanted to ask you for some information.
I recently acquired a bicycle about 3 weeks ago. Last Friday, I bought a gauge cluster/speedometer/odometer for it. I've ridden 43 miles (calibrated the speedometer according to directions) verified with car's odometer and also Google Maps) in the past 7 days and am having a blast. Mind you, through the parkway, not like the people you see on the street. It's not a bullshit bicycle from a local Walmart, but an older cycling bicycle. I'm not familiar with the terminology, so forgive any butchering I may do. I think it's a 24 speed? (3 x 8 gear levers.) It has the curved horns in the front on the handlebars, but nothing crazy like the picture of the bicycle you posted. (That you sold like a month or two ago.) It also has some bizarre small ass pedals, which I actually like a lot! I can take turns way harder without scraping the pedals. It doesn't have shocks and the brakes are fixed to the edge of the rim; not a caliper/rotor combination.
Aside from this speedometer/gauge cluster device, what other cool and unique things can I get for it? I already have a headlight and taillight, and also a rear view mirror is currently on its way. The brakes are pretty worn out, so where and what should I look into as far as replacements go? I'd prefer performance over cheap bullshit. (Unless it doesn't matter in this domain?) What about the brake smearing on the actual rims of the bicycle? Do you have to clean those up with some solution?
You know how it is with cars when it comes to modifying, well, the same exact principle is present with everything else in my life! :tup:
Just a recap in case everything above is spread all over the place:
-Cycling bicycle
-no shocks
-brakes fixed to edge of rims
-tires are speed/riding? blue in color with almost no grooved tread
-3 x 8 speed configuration (24 speed?)
-already have lights
-recently purchased a gauge cluster/speedometer/odometer
Assume I have zero knowledge on the subject. Give me your pointers, advice, suggestions, recommendations, theories, conspiracies, ideologies, comments, and thoughts! :lol:
Edit: So, it's a Marin Larkspur City Sport/Series 7005 Aluminum frame. I don't know exactly what size, but it has to be either XL or XXL because this is the first bicycle that doesn't obliterate my back in half. The previous owner was supposedly 6' tall, and I'm well over that. The seat raises to a length where it extends well beyond the distance my legs can stretch. This was a first time experience for me and very bizarre. :lol: The seat is also extremely small and narrow, but extremely and surprisingly comfortable (aside from bumps, which is brutal in the absence of shocks).
Seat is Selle SMP TRK. (Not OEM.)
Pedals are Shimano PD-M540 SPD. (Not OEM.)
I don't know if this is the exact model I have, but the parts match:
Wheels and Tires
Hubs: Aluminum double-sealed
Tires: Kenda Kwest, 700 x 35c
Spoke Brand: 14g stainless-steel
Components
Brakeset: Linear-pull
Shift Levers: Shimano EF50 EZ-Fire
Pedals: (Mine has something else, aftermarket, not what was listed here)
Rear Cogs: Shimano HG30, 8-speed: 11-32
Saddle: (Mine has something else, aftermarket, not what was listed here)
Handlebar: Aluminum
Handlebar Stem: Aluminum adjustable
I recently acquired a bicycle about 3 weeks ago. Last Friday, I bought a gauge cluster/speedometer/odometer for it. I've ridden 43 miles (calibrated the speedometer according to directions) verified with car's odometer and also Google Maps) in the past 7 days and am having a blast. Mind you, through the parkway, not like the people you see on the street. It's not a bullshit bicycle from a local Walmart, but an older cycling bicycle. I'm not familiar with the terminology, so forgive any butchering I may do. I think it's a 24 speed? (3 x 8 gear levers.) It has the curved horns in the front on the handlebars, but nothing crazy like the picture of the bicycle you posted. (That you sold like a month or two ago.) It also has some bizarre small ass pedals, which I actually like a lot! I can take turns way harder without scraping the pedals. It doesn't have shocks and the brakes are fixed to the edge of the rim; not a caliper/rotor combination.
Aside from this speedometer/gauge cluster device, what other cool and unique things can I get for it? I already have a headlight and taillight, and also a rear view mirror is currently on its way. The brakes are pretty worn out, so where and what should I look into as far as replacements go? I'd prefer performance over cheap bullshit. (Unless it doesn't matter in this domain?) What about the brake smearing on the actual rims of the bicycle? Do you have to clean those up with some solution?
You know how it is with cars when it comes to modifying, well, the same exact principle is present with everything else in my life! :tup:
Just a recap in case everything above is spread all over the place:
-Cycling bicycle
-no shocks
-brakes fixed to edge of rims
-tires are speed/riding? blue in color with almost no grooved tread
-3 x 8 speed configuration (24 speed?)
-already have lights
-recently purchased a gauge cluster/speedometer/odometer
Assume I have zero knowledge on the subject. Give me your pointers, advice, suggestions, recommendations, theories, conspiracies, ideologies, comments, and thoughts! :lol:
Edit: So, it's a Marin Larkspur City Sport/Series 7005 Aluminum frame. I don't know exactly what size, but it has to be either XL or XXL because this is the first bicycle that doesn't obliterate my back in half. The previous owner was supposedly 6' tall, and I'm well over that. The seat raises to a length where it extends well beyond the distance my legs can stretch. This was a first time experience for me and very bizarre. :lol: The seat is also extremely small and narrow, but extremely and surprisingly comfortable (aside from bumps, which is brutal in the absence of shocks).
Seat is Selle SMP TRK. (Not OEM.)
Pedals are Shimano PD-M540 SPD. (Not OEM.)
I don't know if this is the exact model I have, but the parts match:
Wheels and Tires
Hubs: Aluminum double-sealed
Tires: Kenda Kwest, 700 x 35c
Spoke Brand: 14g stainless-steel
Components
Brakeset: Linear-pull
Shift Levers: Shimano EF50 EZ-Fire
Pedals: (Mine has something else, aftermarket, not what was listed here)
Rear Cogs: Shimano HG30, 8-speed: 11-32
Saddle: (Mine has something else, aftermarket, not what was listed here)
Handlebar: Aluminum
Handlebar Stem: Aluminum adjustable
Eagleye
Tinkerer
So let's see...congrats on the new bike! Don't get too caught up on changing this or that or worrying about specs. Trust me, this is a deep dark hole much like modding cars.
- One mod I can highly recommend is fitting the widest road tire possible for your frame clearance (something like the Gatorskin by Continental is a good option).
- If you like the gauge cluster you have that is great, but if you have a smartphone I recommend using an app called Strava. You buy a phone mount for the stem/handlebar and it is a free way to track each ride (distance, speed, time) and it stores each ride on their app/site so you can see your progress. Really no need to have any of the dedicated speedometers anymore.
- Lights are an excellent idea.
- Typically you will hear people only refer to the rear cassette when referencing gearing (8, 9, 10, 11 speed).
- The brakes you have are "rim brakes". A lot of newer bikes have embraced disc brakes (they are superior in every way).
- Be sure you stay on top of tire pressures and brake adjustment, you can limp the bike home on bad gear tuning but the other 2 can make things very sketchy.
Other than that, YouTube is your friend for any adjustments you may need to make to the bike or fitment questions. I recommend Chain Reaction Cycles as a good online store for any parts, but finding a good local shop is key when starting out. One near me is absolutely fantastic. The guys really go out of their way to help, keep the cost minimal or free, and are friendly. I've been in 4 local shops and they are by far the best (and I didn't even buy my bike there!)
Please ask any specific questions related to anything cycling and I will do my best to answer. I can talk cycling like I talk cars.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
So let's see...congrats on the new bike! Don't get too caught up on changing this or that or worrying about specs. Trust me, this is a deep dark hole much like modding cars.
- One mod I can highly recommend is fitting the widest road tire possible for your frame clearance (something like the Gatorskin by Continental is a good option).
- If you like the gauge cluster you have that is great, but if you have a smartphone I recommend using an app called Strava. You buy a phone mount for the stem/handlebar and it is a free way to track each ride (distance, speed, time) and it stores each ride on their app/site so you can see your progress. Really no need to have any of the dedicated speedometers anymore.
- Lights are an excellent idea.
- Typically you will hear people only refer to the rear cassette when referencing gearing (8, 9, 10, 11 speed).
- The brakes you have are "rim brakes". A lot of newer bikes have embraced disc brakes (they are superior in every way).
- Be sure you stay on top of tire pressures and brake adjustment, you can limp the bike home on bad gear tuning but the other 2 can make things very sketchy.
Other than that, YouTube is your friend for any adjustments you may need to make to the bike or fitment questions. I recommend Chain Reaction Cycles as a good online store for any parts, but finding a good local shop is key when starting out. One near me is absolutely fantastic. The guys really go out of their way to help, keep the cost minimal or free, and are friendly. I've been in 4 local shops and they are by far the best (and I didn't even buy my bike there!)
Please ask any specific questions related to anything cycling and I will do my best to answer. I can talk cycling like I talk cars.
The bicycle came with new tires, so I'll leave them until it's time to swap them out. Regarding tires:
-How long do tires last on bicycles?
-What aspects does a wider tire alter? Pros and cons?
-How much actual force can the tires absorb with no shocks before taking damage? (What must happen in order for a tire to receive a huge damaging impact?)
-How hard can I lean on the sidewalls before losing control? They are really narrow tires and I feel like the bicycle will just flip over in the middle of a hard turn. :lol:
-Is there an optimum PSI to set the tires to?
What about brake pads, what do I need to know?
-Are there actual different types like normal and performance pads? Pros and cons?
-What about the actual rim edge where the brake pads press against; do they need to be cleaned regularly?
What about positioning on the bicycle?
-What's the optimum stance?
-Should my leg fully extend from seat to pedal during cycling?
-Should my arms be angled or extended during cycling?
-How high should your butt be in parallel with the handlebars?
What about the chain?
-Does it need to be greased regularly like a motorcycle's?
Why do people wear helmets when cycling on the road? Is it a legal issue, safety, or both?
Assume I have zero knowledge on the subject. A brand new slate! :lol:
Eagleye
Tinkerer
Tire life is dependent on how soft the compound is, how heavy the rider is, and road conditions. It's fairly specific to the make and model of your particular tire so googling what others have gotten will get you the best estimate.
I would go with something like a GatorSkin or 4season from Continental. You get what you pay for when it comes to bike tires. Cheap ones may last longer but will be less comfortable and sacrifice a lot of grip and in some cases speed as well (higher rolling resistance).
Wider tires will soak up more bumps as they have a wider contact patch and you can run then at lower psi without worrying about pinch flats. If you ride a bike with 20mm tires vs 32mm you'll immediately feel a big difference in comfort and the 32 will likely be faster contrary to the old beliefs. The only time skinny tires are faster are on pristine surfaces like an indoor track.
How far you can push the tires depends on your bike handling skills, position on the bike, rider weight, bike geometry, road surface. I learned the hard way how far I could push my tires, taking several turns over the years a little quicker than I should have. You learn the limits.
Yes there are optimal psi ranges, you can find charts online for certain tire widths and rider weight.
Keep the rim edge clean of build up. Discoloration is okay, build up is not. SwissStop make really nice pads and they are easy to swap and adjust. They should be mounted at a slight angle across the rim to promote even braking and wear.
Positioning on the bike:
You should not be looking out your knee on the downstroke or feeling your hips dip with each stroke (seat is too high). If you decide to ever get cycling shoes to go with the "clipless" pedals on your bike your "stack height" will change vs normal sneakers and you will want to adjust your seat height accordingly. Your arms should have bend. How much you want to be bent forward is dictated by your flexibility and core strength. The more you can lean the faster you will be (more aero). Are is more important than weight. You will go faster by becoming more flexible and riding smoothly vs losing right from you or the bike. I suggest checking YouTube for fitting videos. Super easy to get yourself setup.
Keep the chain cleaned and lubed with bike specific lube such as finish line wet/dry lube. Doing so reduces wear, improves shifting, and reduces drivetrain power loss.
Absolutely wear a helmet, and not some cheap crap from Walmart. A helmet saved me from serious injury last year. I walked away with some bad road rash but avoided brain damage or other serious injuries to my head. I donated the helmet to a local bike shop to show why people should wear one. If you buy a good one they are comfortable and breathe well, no reason not to.
I would go with something like a GatorSkin or 4season from Continental. You get what you pay for when it comes to bike tires. Cheap ones may last longer but will be less comfortable and sacrifice a lot of grip and in some cases speed as well (higher rolling resistance).
Wider tires will soak up more bumps as they have a wider contact patch and you can run then at lower psi without worrying about pinch flats. If you ride a bike with 20mm tires vs 32mm you'll immediately feel a big difference in comfort and the 32 will likely be faster contrary to the old beliefs. The only time skinny tires are faster are on pristine surfaces like an indoor track.
How far you can push the tires depends on your bike handling skills, position on the bike, rider weight, bike geometry, road surface. I learned the hard way how far I could push my tires, taking several turns over the years a little quicker than I should have. You learn the limits.
Yes there are optimal psi ranges, you can find charts online for certain tire widths and rider weight.
Keep the rim edge clean of build up. Discoloration is okay, build up is not. SwissStop make really nice pads and they are easy to swap and adjust. They should be mounted at a slight angle across the rim to promote even braking and wear.
Positioning on the bike:
You should not be looking out your knee on the downstroke or feeling your hips dip with each stroke (seat is too high). If you decide to ever get cycling shoes to go with the "clipless" pedals on your bike your "stack height" will change vs normal sneakers and you will want to adjust your seat height accordingly. Your arms should have bend. How much you want to be bent forward is dictated by your flexibility and core strength. The more you can lean the faster you will be (more aero). Are is more important than weight. You will go faster by becoming more flexible and riding smoothly vs losing right from you or the bike. I suggest checking YouTube for fitting videos. Super easy to get yourself setup.
Keep the chain cleaned and lubed with bike specific lube such as finish line wet/dry lube. Doing so reduces wear, improves shifting, and reduces drivetrain power loss.
Absolutely wear a helmet, and not some cheap crap from Walmart. A helmet saved me from serious injury last year. I walked away with some bad road rash but avoided brain damage or other serious injuries to my head. I donated the helmet to a local bike shop to show why people should wear one. If you buy a good one they are comfortable and breathe well, no reason not to.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Thank you so much for the wealth of knowledge! :bow: I'm sure I'll ask you more questions the more I dive into this realm. :tup:
I just checked my tires and they were set to 40 PSI... The OEM recommends 50 PSI minimum and 85 PSI maximum. I set them to 60 PSI and took a quick spin. Vast difference, wow!
It seems the Grand Prix 4-Season tires are more suitable for me. Remember, most of my riding will be in the parkway and sidewalks.
I just checked my tires and they were set to 40 PSI... The OEM recommends 50 PSI minimum and 85 PSI maximum. I set them to 60 PSI and took a quick spin. Vast difference, wow!
It seems the Grand Prix 4-Season tires are more suitable for me. Remember, most of my riding will be in the parkway and sidewalks.
Grinder34
Track Monkey
Bike fitting is an art, not a science. You can find a million reviews/guides/etc... online, but everyone's body is different. Like for your height do you have....Long arms? Short legs? Heavy torso? Those can all make a difference.
Wider tires will allow more air, more air = plusher ride. Narrow tires are somewhat faster due to lower rolling resistance and better aero. But if you're not trying to hit 30 in the straights, go wide!
I use Strava (well the Wahoo app linked with Strava) as my bike computer with a phone holder. I also got a saddle bag, CO2 inflator, CO2 cartridges, tire levers, a bike-specific multi-tool, and a patch kit for my bike. All easily stolen if you lock it up, but if you're going for a long-ish ride you may want all of them.
Also, a bike lock. Don't cheap out, i found out the hard way. Any U-lock is better than any cable lock. But here are a few independent testing facilities: https://www.stichtingart.nl/art-foundation/ and https://www.soldsecure.com/ U-Locks are high up there, but NOT as good as a *good* chain and padlock combo.
As for cornering, its definitely a feel thing. You'll have to find out the hard way.
Do you have bike shoes? Sounds like you have SPD-style pedals on there. They're the very popular shimano off-road specific clips. You can get a set of SPD cleats (not SPD-SL) and put them on bike shoes to get a lot better power. But, if you've never used clips before you're likely to fall over once or twice, especially at stoplights and the like!
Hmmm...what else?
Wider tires will allow more air, more air = plusher ride. Narrow tires are somewhat faster due to lower rolling resistance and better aero. But if you're not trying to hit 30 in the straights, go wide!
I use Strava (well the Wahoo app linked with Strava) as my bike computer with a phone holder. I also got a saddle bag, CO2 inflator, CO2 cartridges, tire levers, a bike-specific multi-tool, and a patch kit for my bike. All easily stolen if you lock it up, but if you're going for a long-ish ride you may want all of them.
Also, a bike lock. Don't cheap out, i found out the hard way. Any U-lock is better than any cable lock. But here are a few independent testing facilities: https://www.stichtingart.nl/art-foundation/ and https://www.soldsecure.com/ U-Locks are high up there, but NOT as good as a *good* chain and padlock combo.
As for cornering, its definitely a feel thing. You'll have to find out the hard way.
Do you have bike shoes? Sounds like you have SPD-style pedals on there. They're the very popular shimano off-road specific clips. You can get a set of SPD cleats (not SPD-SL) and put them on bike shoes to get a lot better power. But, if you've never used clips before you're likely to fall over once or twice, especially at stoplights and the like!
Hmmm...what else?
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Thanks for the input, [MENTION=652]Grinder34[/MENTION] ! I'm not going to get crazy into cycling; it's mainly just joyriding for fun. I've ridden just over 74 miles in the past 9 days, which is a lot for me considering I haven't ridden a bicycle in close to a decade. I'm mainly just riding around my neighborhood and went to nearby cities a couple of times. Longest ride has been 15 miles round trip thus far.
I average between 10-15 MPH depending on how strong the wind is and I've been riding anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour and half daily. The fastest I've ridden was 26 MPH for about a minute. How do people pace high speeds for an extended duration of time?!!
I average between 10-15 MPH depending on how strong the wind is and I've been riding anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour and half daily. The fastest I've ridden was 26 MPH for about a minute. How do people pace high speeds for an extended duration of time?!!
Grinder34
Track Monkey
Huge legs. And then they have bikes that weigh half of what yours do, and they have significantly more aero.
And then they get in a peloton and rotate who's up front pretty often.
But if you're doing "only" 7.5 miles out, you shouldn't really need all the tools I mentioned. You can always get an uber and throw your bike in the back if things go wrong. But 15 miles is good! You may just decide you like it and do rides that take you a few hours--then you may want to stock up on repair stuff!
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
I've ridden 109 miles so far, which is insane for me. I've also built more endurance because I used to average 10-11 MPH and now I'm averaging 14-15 MPH.
@Grinder34 and @Eagleye , can you guys recommend some sort of tool pouch that can hook up on the bar connecting the seat and the handlebars, and tire inflating cartridges? Something cheap that will work. This is all for fun, I'm not trying to go hardcore.
A three or four hour bike ride isn't out of the question right now, so I may as well start preparing.
@Grinder34 and @Eagleye , can you guys recommend some sort of tool pouch that can hook up on the bar connecting the seat and the handlebars, and tire inflating cartridges? Something cheap that will work. This is all for fun, I'm not trying to go hardcore.
A three or four hour bike ride isn't out of the question right now, so I may as well start preparing.
Grinder34
Track Monkey
This is what i have:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWD2AJ2/
It's rear-mounted though. You might be looking for something off of this page:
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=bike+bag+frame
Here's the rest of my kit:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QVXB3BN/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JF2ZB8/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9IFSH6/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076DNP3FR/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NU928OO/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZDUGHCW/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017WP7XU/
and of course, to keep it all safe:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3TL52S/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4Z1EYS/
Can also get fancy with these:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0YRQIA/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWD2AJ2/
It's rear-mounted though. You might be looking for something off of this page:
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=bike+bag+frame
Here's the rest of my kit:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QVXB3BN/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JF2ZB8/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9IFSH6/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076DNP3FR/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NU928OO/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZDUGHCW/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017WP7XU/
and of course, to keep it all safe:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3TL52S/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4Z1EYS/
Can also get fancy with these:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0YRQIA/
Eagleye
Tinkerer
14-15mph is pretty good for starting out.
To address a common misconception, narrower tires do not have a lower rolling resistance in most circumstances. Due too how narrow the tire is, it has a very long contact patch vs a wider tire that had a shorter contact patch that is slightly wider. The key is to pressure. Where a 20-23mm tire requires around 80psi, a 25-32mm tire can run at 60psi and be faster as it absorbs the road imperfections and keeps contact with the road. This goes out the window on a smooth surface such as a velodrome.
As far as the fast pacelining... Time on the bike mainly. Proud live on the bike. I can ride with a group at about 22-25mph depending on the group and have gone over 50mph on some descents. Their speed isn't what impresses me... It's how long they can sustain it for especially on mountain stages. Crazy power and endurance.
To address a common misconception, narrower tires do not have a lower rolling resistance in most circumstances. Due too how narrow the tire is, it has a very long contact patch vs a wider tire that had a shorter contact patch that is slightly wider. The key is to pressure. Where a 20-23mm tire requires around 80psi, a 25-32mm tire can run at 60psi and be faster as it absorbs the road imperfections and keeps contact with the road. This goes out the window on a smooth surface such as a velodrome.
As far as the fast pacelining... Time on the bike mainly. Proud live on the bike. I can ride with a group at about 22-25mph depending on the group and have gone over 50mph on some descents. Their speed isn't what impresses me... It's how long they can sustain it for especially on mountain stages. Crazy power and endurance.
Grinder34
Track Monkey
I've hit 50 on a descent too, and it was scary AF. I was worried about hitting literally anything and going flying. But i DID do double the speed limit on a bicycle that day... Can you get a ticket for that?
Similar threads
