GD SubieEngineer's 2007 UGM STI Limited #576, The Gentleman's STI

SubieEngineer

New member
Slight update... I'm still waiting on my EBC blanks, so I'm going to order the HP+ for the rear either tomorrow or Tuesday, along with the GS UP. Come Friday, I'm swapping all 4 corners with some good braking! My Kartboy STS should be here one day this week. I may install it along with the pads and rotors. I also discovered the Girodisc makes titanium pad shims similar to TiC's, and GD makes them for the rear, which is sweet. They're also $20 cheaper than TiC (before adding a few $$$ for shipping). I also saw that they carry OEM-style shims for $15/axle, which is awesome! I priced some OEMs for the front from Annapolis Subaru and they were ~$65 just for the front. I'll probably order GD shims for the front and rear and pick up some titanium shims with track pads when I plan the next track day.

I've also gotten an estimate on my car from my insurance... Just under $3.4k for the repair. Basically they want to use Paintless Dent Removal on the whole car and remove and inspect the head lights and tail lights. I went to a local PDR shop and a body shop waaaaay out in a rural area (recommendation) and both agreed that my wonderful aluminum hood should be replaced and painted/blended. The PDR shop also said $4k to PDR everything but the hood. I'm now torn as to what to do, as most of the local body shops have backlogs through at least mid-August. The body shop I visited recommended that I get PDR done, then take it to him or someone else for trim/hood replacement and painting as necessary. My preference is to visit 1 shop and have them do everything, as that's obviously less hassle for both me and my insurance company. After some thinking, I essentially have 3 options:

1. Ideally, suck it up and wait, and have one shop handle the PDR and body work.
2. Next best, find a non-local shop (like in Nashville), have a single shop handle everything.
3. Potentially the most PITA, have a PDR shop do what they can, get supplements as necessary, then take it to a body shop, with mo' supplements, I'm sure.

I'm leaning towards the 3rd option. I don't want my car to be in the shop until the first week of June at the earliest, as I've still got parts to install.
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And the next AX is this weekend... I'll be calling some local shops and see how they do PDR, then visit their recommended shops for quotes. I don't have a problem with driving my car as-is, but I'm not waiting until the damn fall to get it fixed if I don't have to.
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I'm also about to pull the trigger on some DD wheels/tires... 17x9 +42 Rota Grids in Hyperblack wrapped in 245/40/17 Continental ExtremeContact DWS. I wanted something wider than stock at about the same weight, and a long-lasting tire that can handle the few months we're likely to get snow. And amazingly enough, I found a company in Oakland, CA called Aspec Wheels that had an eBay listing for the Grids who can sell them to me ~$300 cheaper than Wheeldude (albeit with cheaper "generic" spline lugs versus McGards).
 
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SubieEngineer

New member
So this past Friday I installed some much better stopping powah: HP+ pads with EBC blank rotors at all 4 corners. I bedded them in and all I can say is holy crap! :eek: These stop much better than the Yellowstuff with much less pedal pressure! I also installed them with Girodisc OEM-style pad shims and used liberal amounts of brake lube from Advance Auto (Permatex in a can with a brush built-in to the lid, very handy). I did this in advance of the autocross coming up Sunday. I did drive maybe 100 miles on them Friday/Saturday and know I'm going to have to seriously recalibrate my braking at the AX.

Sunday comes, and I'm ready for the event. There was even a GTR signed up for STM that day! I was definitely looking forward to seeing what it could do on-course. I'm in the 2nd heat, and my first run is a re-run due to someone getting lost on course. No big deal, but I could immediately tell that my car was going to be stupid tail-happy for some reason. First run, I do the crossover, come back for the 180* to start up the hill, and promptly spin going into the 180*. Crap. Finish the run with a bad time and +2. Run 2 starts off well. I don't spin entering the 180*, but coming out of it is a 3-cone slalom. Back end gets loose and as I counter-steer to bring it in, I know I'm going to spin. Yup. And I nail a few cones, again. Finish up Run 2 with +3. Run 3 goes on to be spinless, but dirty with a single cone. Run 4 I spin in the same place as Run 1, and still pick up 2 cones. My final run turns out to be my best, but it's still dirty with a single damn cone. Final result: Placed 10 of 12 drivers. Definitely not one of my better days.

The part that ticked me off is that I never figured out exactly why my back end wanted to come around so easily. I did have that problem early on in the 2010 season, but I corrected most of that with setting the RSB on full soft, and I've only spun once since about mid-2010 at our local lot. I ended up dropping the tire pressures and was at 35/30 by my 4th run. Granted, it was damn hot (90*), but my car never felt this bad last year when it was hotter out. The only change I've made since the last event is the rear diff mount bushings (comfort) and the pads/rotors. I know that day I was too heavy on the brakes for the desired level of stopping, but I suppose these pads are so much more aggressive than the Yellowstuff that I need to learn modulation much better and not overdo it.

Results: Final Results, #3 - ETRSCCA - Regional #3 - Pellissippi State - Sun 05-22-2011

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0ist4ltwTI&feature=channel_video_title

Pics:

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GTR:

Untitled by Connor Hinkle, on Flickr

Friend of the GTR owner:

Untitled by Connor Hinkle, on Flickr

Another update on my rattling muffler... I've found mention of several people on IWSTI using a Magnaflow #14835 muffler with custom piping and I think I'm going to go that route. I've ordered the muffler from Advance Auto and will have my friend simply cut the piping and the hangers off the Cobb muffler and weld them onto the Magnaflow. Comparing the dimensions, both mufflers are almost identical, and I love the fact that the Magnaflow is a straight-through design like the Cobb, and with a lifetime warranty. I've got to do something soon, as this rattling is driving me nuts! I have examined the mufler closely, and it's definitely something internal to the muffler and isn't the center piping through it.

Friday I plan to install the KB STS, and take my DP off so my friend can reweld it. Saturday I'll be reinstalling the DP and my Grimmspeed up-pipe, which I will be spraying with a ceramic coating (except the flex section). I'm considering wrapping the UP while I'm at it, any thoughts as to wrap? Advance Auto has a titanium wrap I'm considering. I'm also thinking about doing the same to the DP since it'll be off the car, but I'm much more hesitant where water will easily be able to get onto the wrap and possibly get trapped between the wrap and the DP itself.

And as for the hail damage, I'm dropping the car off at a local paintless dent removal place and I found a reputable body shop about 45 min away that'll see me the week after I get the PDR done. Hopefully she'll have a near-perfect body by the next AX and the end of June! :D
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
What tires are you running? Weird that you kept spinning out. Was the tires squealing at all?
 

SubieEngineer

New member
What tires are you running? Weird that you kept spinning out. Was the tires squealing at all?

255/40/17 Star Spec son 17x9 +42 Kosei K1 TS. I've been using these same tires since March of last year. They're down to just under 4/32" now. The tires would squeal, but they never felt they were near the typical breakaway point. If you watch my video, about 2/3 through or so when I have the camera outside the car, you can see I'm turning in about 30*-40* and the back end just lets go. :?
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
I saw that. Have you checked the rear end to make sure everything is nice and tight back there?
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Let me know if you find anything. I'm curious to see if or what you find.
 

SubieEngineer

New member
Well, it's been a productive weekend thus far, and I didn't find anything loose in my rearend...

Friday, I took the time to install my Kartboy STS. The install went well, my only advice is to be very careful with the white cup the bottom of the shifter sits in and to be damn sure both black o-rings are on the cup when you put it into place.
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I was about to put the center console back together when I realized I had a black o-ring sitting out. Then I cracked the cup pulling the shifter up.
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It still shifts fine and this hasn't happened, so I'm hoping I'm good for quite awhile. Oh, and snap rings f-ing suck! My dad's snap ring pliers would also snap open if I closed them too tightly, and one end liked to get stuck in the end of the ring. Sheesh. But, shifting feels good and noticeably more enjoyable. Now if I only had a heavier shift knob to use...
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Earlier today I took the time to install my Kartboy rear differential outrigger bushings, so now I have the entire Comfort Klunk Killer installed. I couldn't tell much difference in the brief test-drive I did to be sure I had no outstanding issues. I think the rear diff mount bushings did a lot more for hard acceleration. I took a pic of everything apart:

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I also checked random nuts/bolts/connections in the rear to see if I had something loose causing my tail-happiness at the last AX... Nope, nothing loose. I paid special attention to the swaybar and endlinks, but they were all tight. Oh, well. Guess my driving just sucked that bad.
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I also coated my Grimmspeed up-pipe with VHT flameproof and wrapped it with DEI's titanium exhaust wrap:

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If I can get a 2nd hand tomorrow, the GS UP will go on and I'll take my downpipe to my friend to get the 3" flange rewelded.
 

SubieEngineer

New member
So this past weekend was very productive car-wise...

Friday: Installed KB STS.

Saturday: Installed Kartboy rear subframe outrigger bushings.

Sunday... Failing to enlist a 2nd hand from someone that's done this before (he knows who he is... :p), I decided to tackle the up-pipe install solo. Oh, my. Get the front end in the air. take downpipe and exhaust manifold off, and finally get the uppipe off. I'd opted not to replace the gaskets for the manifold/uppipe or the manifold/engine, as those are easy to get to. My main concern was the uppipe/turbo connection, as that one is a PITA to get to. I'd bought a new gasket off a NASIOC member, and it turns out to be a gasket that covers the entire uppipe flange, instead of the area where the turbo bolts to the uppipe. Basically, the flange on the turbo connects to the uppipe with 3 nuts on the uppipe's studs, and the other 2 studs go to mounting brackets coming off the engine. Anyway, said gasket is multilayer and doesn't fit for crap. I end up filing 3 of the 5 holes in it to get it to fit the uppipe, and it's split in 2 by this point. I have no issues replacing gaskets, but this is the one gasket I REALLY don't need to leak. I also find out my friend can't reweld my downpipe until the next morning.

Most of the bottom of the turbo as seen from the passenger side of the engine. The uppipe slides through this area.

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Crappy downpipe welds, complete with holes:

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New versus old uppipes.

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Stuff off the car:

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At the end of the day:

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Day 2, I roll out of bed and head over to my friend's. He's able to reweld the holes and touch it up a bit. I'd noticed that the crap muffler shop I'd used completely slacked off and didn't even bother to cut off the 2.5" flange/taper from my DP. Rather, he just welded the 3" flange over it. Lazy $^%^&$^. So the holes are fixed, and my friend takes an air grinder to the taper and grinds it out as much as possible. So I have a 3" catback and a ~2.75" downpipe. He also hooked me up on a new OEM downpipe gasket.
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I also galled the local Subaru dealer, and they did, amazingly enough, have a new OEM uppipe/turbo gasket in-stock. After getting the DP fixed, I swung by and picked it up. I took this as a sign that I should probably not use the one that'd split.
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I get home, and immediately replace the uppipe/turbo gasket (I'd bolted the manifold and everything back up the night before, so ~20 min to unbolt the manifold and uppipe). Then I spray my downpipe with VHT Flameproof after masking off the O2 sensor, flanges, cat, and the wideband bung. I used the rest of my titanium wrap to wrap the DP from the bung to the 45* turn. I would've started at the turbo flange, but my hose clamps weren't big enough. It's a cast bellmouth, anyway.

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So I bolt everything back up, get the TMIC back on, and crank it up around 6. YESSSS!!!! IT LIVES!!!!
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Next step is to check for leaks, so I get my mom to jump in and rev it. The manifold/engine connections seem fine, but I have a slight leak at the uppipe/manifold connection. Whatever, it's 2 bolts.
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This morning I ordered a Grimmspeed gasket (it's 22% thicker and cheaper than OEM, before shipping). Most of the local auto parts stores carry the manifold/engine gaskets, so I order a pair of those from Advance Auto Parts for good measure. I'll be replacing those this weekend, and thankfully it's a simple job. Step 1, remove splash shield. Step 2, start unbolting the manifold.
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Next Monday The Gentleman's STI goes to the paintless dent removal guy, then to the body shop the following week for a new hood. Hopefully I'll get my Magnaflow muffler on this weekend (it gets delivered tomorrow).
 
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SubieEngineer

New member
Nice progress, glad to see you got those shitty welds fixed. Leaks can be so much fun, huh?

Yeah, "fun." :lol:

I've ordered a Grimmspeed "regular" gasket, so I should be good once I get it. I found out that Napa, Advance Auto Parts, and AutoZone carry the Felpro line of gaskets for the manifold/engine, so I snagged a pair of those for $9.99.

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My Magnaflow muffler also came in. Hopefully I'll get it on this weekend before I turn my car over to be fixed next Monday.

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SubieEngineer

New member
Mild update...

Last Friday, June 3 I went to one of the local 1/8 mile dragstrips... Ended up entering the Street Tire Shootout, or whatever it's called and won a trophy for my trouble!
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Basically, they pit the imports against one another and do the same for the domestics, all on street tires. Then, the winner of each class faces off. Thankfully, the Mustang faulted, as he ran a 8.2 and I managed like a 9.1 (bad launch). It was my first time at the strip, so I don't think I did too bad. Pretty fun, and I shall be going back next week with some friends.

Video (I think me against the Mustang): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7urhetwmj94&feature=player_embedded

My quickest run was a 8.884 agains my friend's TransAm. At some point he laid down a 8.7XX. Here's me and him, he won this one a good 0.25 seconds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg57YKt0q8w

I also took the car to a local paintless dent removal shop on Monday. Got her back yesterday and so far so good! I'm taking it to a semi-local body shop next week to get the hood replaced and blended and some dented trim pieces replaced.
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SubieEngineer

New member
Fourth local SCCA AX of the year was today. Pulled out the win of 4 drivers with a meager 0.078 second margin. Started off raining as the event started. We delayed it for a bit to see what the weather would do (infrequent thunder). It started to slack off and we had the first car off by 11:30. As I was afraid of, the pavement started to dry up about midway through my run group (I ran first). First 3 runs were basically wet, 4-5 was drying a bit and 6th was too randomly split for me not to suck.
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I think I'm getting the hang of modulating the HP+, but I need to do a dry event to be absolutely sure.

Video compilation: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haOaQOvl9gk&feature=player_embedded

I'm seriously thinking about doing the PDX at the Subaru Challenge at Carolina Motorsports Park in 3 weeks... Need to flush the brakes and give the suspension a once-over for good measure.

I also did an oil change this past Tuesday... 1st fill of T6 done, 2nd fill now running its course. At the same time, I swapped from the Purolator PureOne PL14612 OEM-size filter to the PL14610, which is slightly longer. It holds a few ounces more, so now 5 quarts fills it up versus 4.7-4.8.
 

Paul.c

New member
Good idea with the filter. I've heard of others doing that but never did it myself. If not for safety then just for the fact that you can use 5 whole quarts and not have 0.3 left over to go to waste.
 

SubieEngineer

New member
Good idea with the filter. I've heard of others doing that but never did it myself. If not for safety then just for the fact that you can use 5 whole quarts and not have 0.3 left over to go to waste.

Yup. It's nice to use all the oil and not have any leftover. :D

I finally had my Magnaflow muffler installed last Friday. Sounds great, very similar to Cobb, maybe a touch deeper. The shop was, as I'd hoped, literally able to cut off the Cobb muffler and weld on the Magnaflow, as well as reuse the Cobb hangers. Pics:

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Also flushed fresh RBF600 through the system and greased my pads with some high-temp grease from Advance (some type of Permatex, ~$15/bottle). Tomorrow I'll be AXing with the local PCA as a shake-down for next weekend when I go to the Subaru Showdown at CMP (www.subarushowdown.com).

I've decided that since I had to take the damn AI enclosure out again so my dents in that corner could be popped out, I'm not putting it back in the car. Else, I'm sure I'd have some other reason to take it out before long.
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So, I've ordered a Sound Ordnanace 8" powered sub to stick under the passenger seat. It should ship 7/18, according to Crutchfield's site. More info: Sound Ordnance? B-8PT 120-watt compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
 
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SubieEngineer

New member
Ran at the local AX lot yesterday with the local PCA club. Had a good time! Got in 6 runs and both run groups were done in about 2.5 hours.
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My friend works for a shop that has a Lemons racecar and the owner let him take it to the AX yesterday. I managed to get the GoPro on his fastest run: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o90cT_-hKa0

My fastest time was a 51.267: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PZSXIZYNtc

2nd fastest was a 51.274: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1zLRTI-j6c

It was also a good chance to hear what my new muffler sounds like at WOT from outside the car... It's definitely not as smooth as the Cobb, but I don't think that's a bad thing. Definitely has a meaner growl to it and still sounds mellow/Cobb-like from inside the car.
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My rebuilt/revalved inserts also arrived from Feal a few days ago. I won't have them on the car for a few weeks, though, as I have no time to install them and get an alignment before CMP this weekend.
 
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SubieEngineer

New member
Well, last weekend was awesome! I went down to Carolina Motorsports Park for the Subaru Showdown. I did both days of the PDX on the east course. Had a blast running the East Course! Had a great instructor, which made it even better. Massive thanks to the SC SCCA and the sponsors, especially SoA.
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I went, I drove, and my car and I survived to make the drive home.
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Friday was pretty uneventful. We unpacked all our crap at our hotel, then headed to the track to get our tech inspections done so we could save time Saturday. We had to get up EARLY Saturday, like 5:45 AM to get to the track by 7 AM. My driver's meeting was at 7:15, immediately followed by the first classroom session. At the meeting, I sort of meet all the other students and find out my instructor. I also met nhallman off NASIOC, as he was the guy in charge of the whole weekend. After the meeting, we head to the classroom session where Jon (one of the SpecOps 2.5RS drivers of 42 Autosports) goes over the course, how to grid, how pit works, and the flags. Then, we go to our cars. I finish prepping mine and wait.

First session was interesting. I was in the intermediate group due to the lower #s of drivers. My instructor thankfully has a headset system that we used, as I'm sure you can image how easy it is to talk to someone with the front windows down at 90+ MPH. I just took it easy, feeling out the course. Pat, my instructor, was an awesome guy. Friendly, funny, helpful, and provided plenty of explanation for everything, including words of praise when I took the right line coming out of the turn.

It was pretty funny after the first session... We went to class and Jon was talking about how he the corner workers were seeing small fireworks from the front brakes from me and another guy. We're both running HP+ in the front and I was "AX braking," waiting until the absolute last moment, then coming down hard on the brakes to slow enough for the turn. Produces a lot of heat and apparently some pyrotechnics. They were mainly concerned that we'd burn through our pads. My technique is great if every second counts, but not so much if I want to run 160 min on a track on the same pads. So, afterwards my instructor suggested braking the same amount, but earlier and over a longer period of time. Same amount of slowdown, but much, much easier on the brakes. They were smoking after the first session, and never again did they smoke. I still have at least half the pad left, I believe. And my rotors look good. No grooving or signs of heat checking, but some "hard" pad deposits on the rotor that will probably come off with street driving.

East Course map for reference: http://www.carolinamotorsportspark.com/cmpeasttrack.gif

Highlight was the first session where someone in front of me lost their brakes going into Turn 8. The stretch was Turn 7 to 8 I will about top out 4th gear, 110-115 MPH. Me and my instructor saw the yellow flag and the massive dust could (also on video). They only allowed passing in 2 spots, the straight from T7-8 and the straight from T8-1 (the kink is T9).

Sunday was more of the same, just as relaxed. The sessions went by quicker as much fewer instructors and advanced/time trial drivers took to the course (some groups no one ran, so they skipped ahead). The places I need to work on taking better are Turn 3 and the carousel, Turns 5-6-7. Turn 3 annoys me because the apex is a curb, and it's very hard to find a point in the distance to look at, as I find myself looking through (or rather, at), the corner station. I eventually spun it there, doing a neat 180* and staying on the track. And it's on video.
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Overall, had a freakin' blast! My car survived to be driven home, my brakes wore well, my Star Specs survived (with 1-2/32" of tread left, actually). I shall be doing this again, soon...
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My 2 vids from CMP:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHZmuA_MuhU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YE8KijB1VEI

Pics: SubaruShowdown pictures by silvergle - Photobucket
 

SubieEngineer

New member
So it's been awhile since I posted anything, figured I'd finally make an update now that I'm not so damn busy.
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A few weeks ago I picked up my Grids at the local Discount Tire and had them matched with 255/40/17 Continental ExtremeContact DWS. Why DWS, you ask? Because I don't need ultimate grip to get back and forth to work and the grocery store.
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So far I love 'em... Quiet, grippy enough for what I want, and 50k mileage warranty. I've also picked up a new set of 245/40/17 Star Specs to mount on my Koseis in the "near" future.

Crappy cell phone pics:

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I had an interesting issue with the Grids and the centering rings, too. The hub bore of the Grids and my Koseis is identical, 73mm. Well, the 73mm centering rings the previous owner had (provided to him by TireRack) would fit the Koseis, but constantly get stuck. Like pry it out with a tool stuck. I've lost 2 center caps due to this, sadly. When the tech at DT installed my wheels, he said the centering rings were too snug. I didn't see him test-fit the rings, so I took the wheel off myself a few days later and saw this:



So I did some digging, and found these 72.6mm centering rings from IAG Performance. I ordered a set, and did a test-fit when they arrived. Perfect fit for both the Grids and the Koseis.
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Don't know why 0.4mm makes such a difference, but whatever. Oh, and if anyone's curious, I had DT order me some McGard spline lugs in black. Great fit, and I ended up replacing the 4 locking lugs with 4 regular spline lugs.

As for the quality of the Rotas themselves, unless there's an issue balancing them this weekend, my only real complain is the finish used on the wheel. It's chipping slightly (or maybe never covered that section to start with) around 2 wheels' center cap area. And while removing the lugs, the paint in the lug holes where it contacted the lugs fell off in chunks.
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Discomforting, but as long as it doesn't spread, I'm content. And even if it does, I'll just have them painted at some point.

I also finally received my revalved/rebuilt inserts from Feal Suspension a few weeks ago. They were testing new seals in my inserts, so they had them for a good 3-4 months. I went on ahead and picked up a used set of Yellows and matched the Yellows with the inserts in the front, and haven't touched the rear. Ride feels a bit firmer in the front. As for the valving, I went with the more aggressive than stock, but not as aggressive as it would've been had I had Feal match the valving to the spring rate. I went in for an alignment and finally figured out the trick for getting the negative camber up front I should've had months ago... Push in on the top of the rotor as you tighten the OEM camber bolt. Thankfully, I can set the bolt to full negative, and use a breaker bar through the LCA and 6-point socket to hold the bolt while I use an impact gun to snug the nut. I had Firestone do my alignment, and ended up with -2.2*/-2.3* front, -1.6*/-1.2* rear camber. The rear-right # is odd, and that's the corner that's been groaning for quite awhile now. In the next month or so I'll probably take that strut apart and double-check it, or at least check the top hat and center nut.

Pic of the new front end drop:

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I also had an issue with the horizontal bolt that goes through my shift linkage... The nut decided to take a vacation and the bolt had backed halfway out of the linkage. I couldn't get the bolt to line up for the life of me, and even if I did, I didn't have a replacement nut. So, I took it back to the shop that installed it and they took care of it. This was after I'd ordered and replaced that little white plastic cup that the bottom of the shifter sits in, thinking that was the problem.
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As for autocross, I've missed 2 events due to being out of town, and the next one is 8/21 and I'm aiming for the win.
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And at some point this month, I'll give her a nice had wash and get some better pics. Driving back from CMP I realized that my Magnaflow can drone on long trips, so I'm looking into either having a resonator welded into my midpipe or buying another midpipe that's resonated and will swap out with the Cobb MP (WBR is one that looks to fit).
 
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SubieEngineer

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Well, the AX went as planned yesterday. I was not driving with my head where it should've been, and managed an annoying 5 out of 15 drivers in STM. But this did show up for some extra fun:

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Yes, that's a F430 Scuderia. Oh, sweet giggidy! He ran STM and (not surprising) pulled the winning run on his last run. Laid down a 49.X, with 2 others (both STIs) right behind him. 4th went to a 350Z, and my best of 50.9 landed me in 5th. I think my issues stemmed from not making the 180s as tight as I could, and not having enough balls going down the hill (not surprising, there). I'm still in the running for winning STM, but I've bumped myself to 4th with this event (and having missed the last 2 points events).

We also did a special shootout/challenge after the 5 points runs. The 14 class winners went head-to-head in a bracket, with 2 more drivers randomly chosen. Each pair's times were compared based on PAX, so the class they ran that day didn't matter. Of course, I had no chance in hell of being in the challenge, but I'm glad we finally did something else different.
lol.gif


My fastest run: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xo6Q2wm9I9I

F430 Challenge Run: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hGYxW3p5Pk
 
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