The Batmobile_Engage Member Journal

[Batmobile_Engage]

I couldn't find pics online that illustrated what I would like to do, but maybe that's because it's not possible.
I was hoping that the base supports that bolt into the trunk (maybe an inch above the trunk lid? Idk, how the
mounting is which is why I'm asking) could stay there permanently and then I could bolt the entire upper section
to the base mounts, so that #1. I would have no opens hole in the trunk lid to seal, #2. I could bolt it to the
bases quickly.

I guess I just need to know what individual parts come with it and how it mounts. I hope I'm describing this properly.
I want to stay wingless for DD, because I get eye-fucked a lot, especially by the cops.

 

[Grinder34]

There's no good way to do that i dont think.

Each vertical support has two studs in it. The studs go through a baseplate (to distribute the load), through the trunk, and then you have washers/nuts on the other side.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Damnit, well thanks for the info. I'll figure something out :banghead:

 

[35r]

[/QUOTE]

you know... i kinda do miss that. not a lot... but i do miss it .

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Cherry Blossom Red....now you've seen a comparison. :rofl:

 

[Grinder34]

I've been reading your rants about wingless...You should investigate an aftermarket wing since you seem to like the ability to adjust. The problem I see with the rear wing is that it's HEAVY (at least with the OEM steel trunk. Never held a wingless steel trunk, so I could be off-base. But that weight is up high too. I got a CF trunk with an APR GTC-200 and i can set it how I like on track days. On non-track days, I take it off and cover the 4 minisucle holes with electrical tape and never even notice the holes are there.

But if you ever go nuts and get a front splitter and aero, you can pump up the rear aero to match AND save weight.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

I already have a large front APR splitter. I do like adjustments, but the main reason I roll wingless is to reduce attention...especially from the cops.

I've considered the wing you mentioned...the main thing was, I was trying to find a wing that comes in a number of pieces. For example, one where I could bolt a portion down flat and mount the wing to it after the fact, so that there wouldn't be any holes to cover or fill. Roll around wingless with a flat mounting plate on the trunk and bolt the wing on before a track day. It seems right in my head
..but that place is a mess sometimes...so I hope you all follow.

 

[Grinder34]

APR is as close as you come. At the simplest, its 4 nuts and washers. If you disassemble it even more for easier storage, its an extra 4 bolts. I do it in 15 minutes alone, and could probably do it in 5 with an extra set of hands. As for the holes, people recommended various plates and plugs to me, but none were as discreet as electrical tape (on a black car anyways).

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

I like your experience with this, specifically because you're also driving a black car.

I've just been having a hard time justifying the money spent on all the parts I want
for the future considering I'm saving for a built motor and heads.

Damnit, I make about the same $ as I did when on active duty, but I now get taxed
so much more heavily, that it's killing my mods budget. FML

Absolutely killing me. I've seen 3 things on sale this week that I really want and just
can't really afford them right now.

I just bought a Ruger Mini-14 Ranch with a 4x30mm scope and a 30 round mag....
I'm also seriously considering a pistol in the next 6 months, and so there goes at least
one more mod. FML yet again.



......I'm about to start buying Powerball Lotto tickets:fuji:

 

[Grinder34]

I am *always* on a budget. I bought my CF trunk AND wing for...cheap. And the CF trunk before that...cheap. They all needed refinishing, and most people are obsessed with the carbon look, so they pass-up perfectly good wings that have some surface blemishes. Look around for deals. Remember that the GTC-200 is not application specific. I believe just the mounting "towers" are, and even then there are only a few versions (i'd do a bit of research on this to verify my claims). So look around on ALL car forums for a GTC-200 and find a used one for cheap, maybe one that's in need of some TLC. If you really only care about the performance on a track, you can even just bondo and rattle-can it and get 100% performance minus the show-car look. If you have a friend in the body shop business, even better. He can do a pro job for cheap, but even a garage job will hold up pretty well if it only sees the sun when its at the track.

I think I rambled for a bit. But here's the gist:

If you just want performance when at a track, get a used beat-up one for dirt cheap--they're out there. You can spend various amounts of $$ after that to make it look incrementally better, but performance is performance.

 

[IGOTASTi]

Now you guys see why I rant about dollar per horsepower.

I thought you just like to rant, lol.

 

[Grinder34]

Now you guys see why I rant about dollar per horsepower.

I can't tell if you approve of the performance-on-a-budget line of discussion, or you disapprove of the trying to get the bottom dollar aspect.

 

[Spamby]

JJ, I barely touch on the ranting subjects and try to stay focused...

I can write up my recent thoughts about the real answer to quantum physics if you want. It's pretty much a rant on the meaning of life and some really hardcore math that everyone can do with just a compass and a ruler. I spent 12 hours working on the math behind 3D quantum physics and have a rather acceptable answer.

I want to read this. Really, I do.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

:hijacked:

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Nah. No hijack.

LOLOLOL

 

[STIMULA8]

JJ, I barely touch on the ranting subjects and try to stay focused...

I can write up my recent thoughts about the real answer to quantum physics if you want. It's pretty much a rant on the meaning of life and some really hardcore math that everyone can do with just a compass and a ruler. I spent 12 hours working on the math behind 3D quantum physics and have a rather acceptable answer.

I want to read this. Really, I do.

+1

 

[Alin]

+1

Count me in. Start a thread. I enjoy reading everything this forum has to offer. The more knowledge the better.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Im liking that splitter, looks real nice. Keep the pics comin :-D

Do you have any install pics from the splitter? I keep meaning to try to fab up one of my own, but im curious about how APR has you install it. Like where to the support rods anchor on the bumper. Do they go all the way through to the bumper beam?

It's quite deep two, about 2 feet. So it covers a huge section of the underside of the front end. Then I have it custom mounted to my Rally Armor undertray/skid plate. This large flat area should even out airflow underneath.

Not the best pics, but these might help.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

As some of you know, I've had some issues with my headlights over the last year or two. It's really
my own damn fault, but as they say 'live and learn'.

A couple years ago, I opened up the headlight assemblies, removed the amber turn signal reflector and
painted the (chrome/crystal) bezel ultra-flat black. The results were great but over time, I started to
notice some fogging inside the headlights and have also more recently had a few low beam HID bulbs
die prematurely.

I opened up my passenger side headlight this past weekend by removing all the screws, baking the
assembly in the oven (220*F for 12-15 minutes) and pulling the halves apart. My main purpose for doing
this was to reseal the headlight properly. I bought some heavy duty silicone adhesive and laid a generous
bead along the seal. While I was in there, I also took a gamble and treated the inside of the plastic
lens/cover with Rain-X anti-fog. Before and after applying anti-fog, I buffed the inside of the clear plastic
lens with a 100% cotton cloth. So far, it seems to have done the trick. After a few weeks, if it gets foggy
again, I will update this post.

I carefully pressed the two halves back together, managed to force two screws back into the housing and
popped it back in the oven again for at least 10 minutes. This softened the adhesive/sealant enough to fully
seat the two halves and make a good seal. Make sure to drive the screws back in BEFORE the assembly
cools down.

 

[Spamby]

Reason why I'm so afraid of cracking my headlights open. That's all I need is to fix another issue that I created. Lol