The Batmobile_Engage Member Journal

[Batmobile_Engage]

Okay guys, I really need some help with this one. As you know, I'm trying to get parts together to complete an engine build by this time next year. There's a guy here locally that is selling a bunch of engine parts. I need the block and the good crank. @WRB_STi wants the heads and one piston, and a coworker wants to weld the rest of the stuff together and make a glass top coffee table. Here's the listing:

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/pts/4655557562.html

He says the block has one cylinder with a pretty big scratch (I asked for a possible depth measurement and pics). Until then, I'm thinking no go on this, but if it's not that bad...I was going to have a machine shop hone the cylinders anyway*, so a +0.5mm over bore wouldn't be much and would likely remove the scratch. Right?

*I do not want sleeves.

He says his price is FIRM at $650 and will not separate parts.

What are your thoughts on this? I need to make a decision in the next couple days.
@Spamby @IGOTASTi.COM @Alin @Td_d @HolyCrapItsFast @Grinder34
@Robert Viehweger @black bandit

 

[Alin]

How is he firm on that? No one has bought it yet and it's been up for a month. Haggle him lower... :lol:

 

[Alter3go]

What kind of engine build? Built motor?

 

[Spamby]

So long as its a scratch and not a crack and that scratch can be machined out.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

How is he firm on that? No one has bought it yet and it's been up for a month. Haggle him lower... :lol:

:lol: I don't know, but he seemed very adamant that that was his lowest price.

What kind of engine build? Built motor?

Built EJ257. Nothing crazy, potentially higher compression than stock though. Just building it to handle my power goal, which should hit at least 450whp.

So long as its a scratch and not a crack and that scratch can be machined out.

I hope I get a pic and maybe a measurement of how deep it is. I don't want to buy something unusable or expensive to fix. I also don't want to have to bore it out ridiculously to remove the scratch because thin cylinder walls tend to warp which grenades the motor, especially with bigger power builds.

 

[Spamby]

Are the other guys buying the parts they want from you?

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Are the other guys buying the parts they want from you?

Joe would be picking up the parts. I'm giving him mine and my coworker's money.

 

[Spamby]

Sorry to drag this out, but what ended the motors life? What cylinder number has the damage?

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

I don't know yet which cylinder. I think it was massive piston failure that ended it.

 

[Spamby]

Hopefully you get a pic. So long as he's not hiding something, I'd think pics wouldn't be a problem.
Bare blocks new seem to be around a grand, give or take. Just food for thought in case you get stuck.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Thanks, Spamby. This one is A LOT cheaper. :lol:

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

I've considered mild, street based (probably 264-268 grind) cams, if even at all. Either way, I want to increase the compression, I'm now thinking 8.5:1 is what I want to do. It's a small bump up from the factory 8.2:1.

-Now the question is, do I choose a larger bore size? 100mm for example? (+0.5mm). I know some people who choose this bore so that when the block is machined, boring out another 0.5mm is not enough to thin out the cylinder walls, but enough to remove any and all scratching and so forth.
How do you feel about that?

My personal preference is I will never go beyond 99.75mm on an unmodified block. In just about every case where I have had 100mm bores, there were micro cracks after several month of driving and that was with power levels below 450 and boost below 21psi.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

My personal preference is I will never go beyond 99.75mm on an unmodified block. In just about every case where I have had 100mm bores, there were micro cracks after several month of driving and that was with power levels below 450 and boost below 21psi.

Great info. :tup: Thanks Holy, this makes my decision much easier. I think I'm going to pass on this block.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

I need to change the oil in the worst kind of way. I know we've talked about engine oil again and again... I'm seriously considering going back to my old formula (though modified a bit) instead of AMSOIL Dominator. Talk me out of it tonight or this is going in tomorrow...

4.0 quarts of Castrol EDGE Titanium 5W-30
0.5 quarts of Lucas Oil Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer

 

[Alin]

How many miles on current oil change? What oil is in the car right now? Why do you want to change?

I replaced my oil last weekend at 3,734 miles. I had dominator and replaced with dominator. :tup:

 

[IGOTASTi]

I need to change the oil in the worst kind of way. I know we've talked about engine oil again and again... I'm seriously considering going back to my old formula (though modified a bit) instead of AMSOIL Dominator. Talk me out of it tonight or this is going in tomorrow...

4.0 quarts of Castrol EDGE Titanium 5W-30
0.5 quarts of Lucas Oil Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer

You have to do what makes you happy.

 

[Alin]

You have to do what makes you happy.

Doing what makes HIM happy isn't always the RIGHT choice! :lol:

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

4,500. I know you guys recommend changes way sooner, and I hate to be a dick but I've kept quiet for a long time - 3,000 miles on present day high tech oil is just throwing money away.

 

[Alin]

Well it all depends on the way you drive. I know you drive way more aggressive than I do! :lol:

Does your car eat any oil after 4,500 miles?

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

It's never lost a drop until the AMSOIL.