The Batmobile_Engage Member Journal
- Thread starter Batmobile_Engage
- Start date
Thanks. I hope so. Is that what you have?
You know how I am...I'll obsessively read and read and read about a product, and still not make a decision. I hate to spend money on something I'm not sure of. I ended up deciding on those pads after reading dozens of reviews from a handful of sites. It seems like most people really like them. I originally thought about getting Hawk HP+, but it looks like these should be a good go-between for both daily driving and lite track/autocross use.
If the rotor is f***ed up, you guys will get to see a picture of it. :lol: I sure hope it's not. I don't think 2 factory rear rotors are THAT expensive, but I don't think I'd attempt that job myself. Have any of you guys installed rotors yourself before? I'm guessing I won't have all the tools I'd need either.
Rotors are cake, they are free floating. All you gotta do is remove the wheel and calipers.
Spamby
Meat Product Toy
Word. Easy as pie.
I can't get my hand far enough back in there. With my Grids I probably could, but not with this set I have for winter.
We'll see on Saturday.
What else could be making this noise besides a pad?
We had them on our Evo. Loved them.
Spamby
Meat Product Toy
If your rotors are fucked and you're looking to do this on the cheap, get something like the Centric blanks. Much cheaper and they'll do the job.
Also, if the rotors don't wanna seem to come off of the hub, you'll need to thread some metric bolts into two little holes on the rotor hat. I don't remember what size the bolts are just that they're metric and you can get them at ACE hardware. I pounded on my front rotors until I broke them and they never budged. Threaded the bolts in and the popped of in 30 seconds.
Also, if the rotors don't wanna seem to come off of the hub, you'll need to thread some metric bolts into two little holes on the rotor hat. I don't remember what size the bolts are just that they're metric and you can get them at ACE hardware. I pounded on my front rotors until I broke them and they never budged. Threaded the bolts in and the popped of in 30 seconds.
Hmmm...I'm not totally sure what you're talking about, but I'm sure I'll see what you mean if I have to change the rotors in which case, I will refer to your post...as I often do.
I'm quite competent in some areas and retarded in other areas. :doh:
By the way, are factory replacements expensive?
EDIT: When I bought the car, I made a deal with the stealership, that if I was going to buy the car, I wanted it inspected by a third party and anything fixed that was f-ed. The front rotors where a bit warped so they changed them for me. 10 minutes after I got off the phone with them about the rotor replacement, the parts guy called me back and said "believe it or not, the factory drilled Brembo rotors are the same price as the original rotors, do you want those?". Of course I wanted those. So that's what I have up front.
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F*** Yeah! I love you guys AND this site. Thanks man!
Spamby
Meat Product Toy
According to tire rack for hawk pads:
HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.
HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Ewwww factory rotors and pads. *spits*
I went with hawk hps+ pads and dba 4000 rotors. That was 2 years ago and theyre still meaty. (Granted i dont drive as much as i used to anymore)
Dont buy oem rotors and pads. Waste of money imo. You can get better performance aftermarket for half the cost!
I went with hawk hps+ pads and dba 4000 rotors. That was 2 years ago and theyre still meaty. (Granted i dont drive as much as i used to anymore)
Dont buy oem rotors and pads. Waste of money imo. You can get better performance aftermarket for half the cost!
Nice! Will do!
Well, I got the pads replaced and took it for a drive to bed them in. There was no damage in the right rear, but one of the pads had a hot spot formation on it, which probably made the noise. They were almost totally shot in the back but the fronts still had a bit of life left. I felt that was strange, I'd guess the front brakes would be under the most pressure. Regardless, I changed them all. No squeaking. I also noticed I may have a wheel bearing going bad. :-(
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Hot spot.
I also broke this shit off. I barely bumped it and it broke at the rivet in the middle. It doesn't actually seem to serve a purpose as the rest of the spring below is held in the caliper. Maybe it's a dust cover?
I also broke this shit off. I barely bumped it and it broke at the rivet in the middle. It doesn't actually seem to serve a purpose as the rest of the spring below is held in the caliper. Maybe it's a dust cover?
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