The Batmobile_Engage Member Journal

Might sound like a stupid ideal but have you considered doing a smoke test to find the boost or vacuum leak? There's several easy ways of doing this type of test and I've seen people pressurize the system with a bike pump after blowing the smoke in the system so they can then find where the leak is coming from due to the smoke coming out.

Sorry just an ideal to help narrow it down and a simple way to pressurize your system.

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Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Way back in the day, when I was having strange issues with the factory turbo, a tuner suggested a smoke test. Maybe he could have done it more effectively, but it seemed like a big waste of time because it doesn't really work as intended. That was one thing I thought about early on though...

Basically, we were able to get the smoke into the system and somewhat pressurized, but the smoke that was escaping was so thin, no one could see it. They just couldn't get dense enough smoke into the system if I remember correctly. I think a boost leak tester is going to be the only way to figure this out, short of putting it on a dyno.

But I suppose if I had a smoke machine, I might try to use it in addition to the boost leak tester.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
After I finish the aforementioned work on my MAF housing, I think I might try spraying down certain areas with soapy water to see if I can identify the leak that way.

Of course, that probably won't work because air flow from the hood scoop will blow the soapy water around.
 
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Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] [MENTION=5942]Real Auto Dynamics[/MENTION]

What do you think the chances are that the culprit is the throttle body shaft seals?
 
Yep im skeptical as well about the smoke tester but I've seen some clever ones done. The soap is the other ideal I was going to say as well as carb cleaner around positive leak areas to see if the idle is affected but that's all old muscle car tricks lol.

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Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Yep im skeptical as well about the smoke tester but I've seen some clever ones done. The soap is the other ideal I was going to say as well as carb cleaner around positive leak areas to see if the idle is affected but that's all old muscle car tricks lol.

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If I had a vacuum leak, that's the first thing I'd do. I've got a can of starting fluid in the garage for that reason. I feel that it doesn't leak though until the system is under pressure.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Well, I cleaned the coupler and the mating surfaces extensively, sealed up the threads on the meth line and took it for a drive.

No dice. I mean...I feel like it might be "better" but not fixed. Instead of the event occuring at 10 psi, now it's maybe 12-13 psi. But I don't know.

The t-bolt clamps on the throttle body coupler and tightened down so hard that another half turn might have snapped them in half. I'm afraid the MAF to throttle body area is not the problem.

Where are some other places beyond the throttle body that I might be loosing boost?

If I can't figure this out by the end of this weekend, I might end up taking it to a shop and putting it on the dyno so we can load it up and look around under the hood.

Unless one of you crazy bastards want to lay on top of my motor with the hood off and look/listen while I get into boost...

...but I doubt that.

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[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION]
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Yeah I'm not going to Michigan! :lol:

It could be any number of things. If it is not a leak in the plenum then I would look first at the PCV valve. If it is stuck open it can cause a massive boost leak. It could be a manifold gasket, a throttle body gasket, the throttle body shaft (though I have never seen this on an STi), it could be anything really. The only thing that will help you to find it is a boost leak test and maybe combined with smoke to. Remember it has to be under pressure.

Perhaps you should take Alin up on his offer to send you a boost leak tester. :tup:
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
I'll send you a cigar and a hookah as well. If that's not enough smoke, then I don't know what is! :tard: :rofl:
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
I'm considering building my own boost leak tester so I'll always have one here. I'm terrified at the possibility that one of my phenolic spacers could be cracked. I'm pretty capable, but I don't feel comfortable removing the intake manifold. I *probably* have the tools necessary, but not the experience.

I suppose I could go with my old tried and true method of tear down and rebuilds that I learned in the Navy: Remove one thing, and one thing ONLY, at a time. Masking tape and sharpie label it. Take photograph. Describe details in notebook. Continue.

That's what I had to do to maintain my sanity when working on $20 Million systems. I'm still super paranoid and don't know if I want to do it myself, IF it comes to that. I really don't have the money right now, but am afraid that it will come down to 2 choices I can reasonably make *IF* I find a huge boost leak in something beyond my capability.

#1. Take it to a shop and spend too much money to have them fix it.
#2. Prepare the car for long term storage and garage it for however long it will take for me to save up for the built motor I intend to one day purchase. Considering I'm expecting to get married in 10 months, and weddings are retarded expensive (and honeymoons too), I have no idea how long it will take.

Man....I hate to be this way, but I'm starting to wallow in despair and fear the worst. Once again, it's over 90 in the shade here, so I think I'm going to destroy this 6-pack of Yuengling and call it a fucking night. :bang:
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Ask [MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION] to help you. You're more than capable of doing it on your own, but for peace of mind, ask him.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
He seems kind of preoccupied lately. Of course, idk...he invited me to a couple different events recently that I wasn't able to make it to. I hope he doesn't think I don't care about him or anything. At the same time, I hate to bug people for help when everyone's time is precious. :unsure:
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Then it's settled.... I will help you fund [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] 's trip to MI and back! :tard:
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
It's easier than you think. The manifold, tgv's, inlet and fuel rails and injectors all come out as one unit. I would do a boost test and check the PCV before you go that far though.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Well, shall I build the boost leak tester and attach it to the throttle body? If that's the case, is there something I have to do to actuate the PCV in the process? If not, how will I know whether the leak is in the PCV system or not?

I guess if I understood the myriad of plumbing in/on the engine, I'd have a better idea of what to look for.

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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Well, shall I build the boost leak tester and attach it to the throttle body? If that's the case, is there something I have to do to actuate the PCV in the process? If not, how will I know whether the leak is in the PCV system or not?

I guess if I understood the myriad of plumbing in/on the engine, I'd have a better idea of what to look for.

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No... you need to put everything back together and attach the boost leak tester to the air intake. Then pressurize the system from there. You need to clamp off every hose that comes off the intake or turbo inlet including the one that goes to the PCV. Use needle nose vice grips to clamp off hoses indicated below.

9d666047b27b3163bfa1cd66b4379bb3.jpg




To test the PCV you need to locate the hoses that come off of it and clamp the one that goes to the turbo inlet and then remove the one going to the manifold. Blow through the line that came from the manifold. If you can blow through then the PCV is bad.

036-1.jpg
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
That helps a ton. I will let you know what happens when I get to that point.

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Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
Ooookay...after lots of homework and other responsibilities, I finally made it to Home Depot where I bought what I need for a boost leak tester. The PVC cement is curing right now and I should be able to start using it tomorrow. Hopefully the pneumatic connection I cemented into a hole drilled in the PVC will hold to the 15-20 psi I plan to pressurize the system with. If not, I can always try again, seeing how the cleanout piece I used was only $0.98.

I'm going to start by pressurizing the turbo inlet as instructed but I don't really expect to find anything until I get to the PCV line below the throttle body as HolyCrapItsFast suggested.
 
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Ooookay...after lots of homework and other responsibilities, I finally made it to Home Depot where I bought what I need for a boost leak tester. The PVC cement is curing right now and I should be able to start using it tomorrow. Hopefully the pneumatic connection I cemented into a hole drilled in the PVC will hold to the 15-20 psi I plan to pressurize the system with. If not, I can always try again, seeing how the cleanout piece I used was only $0.98.

I'm going to start by pressurizing the turbo inlet as instructed but I don't really expect to find anything until I get to the PCV line below the throttle body as HolyCrapItsFast suggested.
Good luck bud

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