The Batmobile_Engage Member Journal

[Batmobile_Engage]

You remember the symptoms, right?

Major loss of boost at ~10 psi.

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[Raven32]

You remember the symptoms, right?

Major loss of boost at ~10 psi.

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More of less. I read though the last few pages of you thread earlier. Its defiantly a leek, the question is where. If it where me I would check each section one by one starting with the throttle body and work back. So after throttle body cab the IC piping from throttle body and go to end where turbo is and pressurized entire piping for intercooler. If that holds boost at say 15 PSI then move on to next area. This is how i would have to track down the leek without taking everything out of the dam car.
By doing the pressure test this way as well you take out some of the variables that can cause you to go insane, because you know you tested it 50 dam times and forgot to do a step while testing.....etc.... anyway hit me up when you want to look at it and have the time to do so as well.


Raven

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

More of less. I read though the last few pages of you thread earlier. Its defiantly a leek, the question is where. If it where me I would check each section one by one starting with the throttle body and work back. So after throttle body cab the IC piping from throttle body and go to end where turbo is and pressurized entire piping for intercooler. If that holds boost at say 15 PSI then move on to next area. This is how i would have to track down the leek without taking everything out of the dam car.
By doing the pressure test this way as well you take out some of the variables that can cause you to go insane, because you know you tested it 50 dam times and forgot to do a step while testing.....etc.... anyway hit me up when you want to look at it and have the time to do so as well.


Raven

One important thing to consider is my datalogs and the position of my MAF. The logs point to a boost leak after the MAF. Well, in my configuration, my MAF is mounted in the pressurized IC plumbing, ~ 2 feet from my throttle body. So if the leak is after my MAF and I've ensured that there is no leak at my IC-to-Throttle Body coupler, then the leak must be beyond my throttle body. This is why it's been so difficult to find and is beyond my experience level.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

[MENTION=5388]Raven32[/MENTION] I am pointing at the MAF in this picture.

View attachment 7319

 

[Doppelganger]

Remove the manifold install, an IAT sensor in it when removed, ditch the MAF after blocking it off and re install the manifold problem solved.

Don't you wish it was as easy as it sounds but your more then capable of doing it but you would have to retune it.

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[Batmobile_Engage]

"sounds simple".

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[Alin]

C'mon... this isn't rocket science! :lol:

Story of our lives, man! :banghead:

 

[Raven32]

One important thing to consider is my datalogs and the position of my MAF. The logs point to a boost leak after the MAF. Well, in my configuration, my MAF is mounted in the pressurized IC plumbing, ~ 2 feet from my throttle body. So if the leak is after my MAF and I've ensured that there is no leak at my IC-to-Throttle Body coupler, then the leak must be beyond my throttle body. This is why it's been so difficult to find and is beyond my experience level.

Now i see your frustrations. however for shits and giggles i would still pressureize the IC and piping so you can officially knock it off the list. remember 15 PSI is more than enough to make sure its holding pressure.

Additionally, when i built my pressure tester i used something like this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chief-30-lb-Gas-Test-Gauge-HD355-30PK1/202274122

along with some PVC couplers and teflon tape. I figure if its good enough to keep gas out of the house it good enough to test boost pressure on our cars.

let me dig mine out and post a picture of it. Hopefully it will give you an idea of how to make one that will last for some time.

 

[Raven32]

So couldn't find the actual pressure gauge I have. however, I do have a few of the pvc fittings laying around to give you an idea.

Make sure to use some PVC cement glue to secure all the PVC fittings and teflon tape on the threaded portions to connect the pressure gauge.

Hope this helps.


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[Batmobile_Engage]

I have definitely pressurized my entire IC system. I found one tiny leak and remedied it, but that wasn't what was causing the problem. I built a boost leak tester for this endeavor. It did what I needed it to, but I should try to find a better way to cement in the air fitting because (luckily after I was done) the cement I used cracked and fell out the next day.

 

[Alin]

We went through 2 tester that we paid $30 each for. We did so many fucking boost leak tests on my car and Radu's car. You better get used to it!!!! :angry:

:rofl:

We tried everything to get the damn gauge mended into the pvc portion so we gave in and got another legit one.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

I built mine at Home Depot for under $10. I might actually buy a nice one sometime later down the line, but I have a lot more cement around here and will probably just try to do a better job the next time around. At least it worked when I needed it to.

 

[Alin]

Yo yo yo! Have you guys gotten snow up there yet?

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

UPDATE: Well, I have come to a decision. I am done trying to figure out what to do with the Batmobile as far as fixing it. I have decided to give up that endeavor.

The Batmobile will sit safely in the garage until there is enough money to put carbon steel synchros in the transmission and drop in a built motor (likely a fully closed-deck block). At that point, it will get a more powerful tune, some much needed bodywork and a paint job. Cross your fingers for at least 450whp (though +475 is the goal).

I'm roughly estimating the work to begin around June 1st, 2018.

Upon completion, the Batmobile will become a fair-weather driver and a periodic track car. i.e. like JJ's former garage queen.

I would like to have this project totally complete by June 1st, 2019.

 

[Grinder34]

Have you already spec'd out a built block?

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Not completely. I am definitely taking suggestions, but my current considerations are IAG Performance or Off The Line Performance, short blocks. Somewhere between $3,000-4,000. If I go any more expensive than that, I won't have much money to work with when it comes to head work and so forth.

Also, it doesn't HAVE to be a closed deck block. But if I can find one that will work in that price range, that would be preferable.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

I'm really hoping for at least 450hp to the wheels. I think I have enough turbo for that, and I really like the turbo I have right now. If I were to change out the turbo at any time in the future, it would only be to go rotated. I do NOT plan on doing that, but IF I did, it would still be a GT3071. I think it is a great compromise between power and spool.

That said, with the GT3071 and the engine tuned for 450whp, do you think a closed deck block is necessary? If not, would it be more reliable that a semi-closed deck block? I'm not going to beat the shit out of it, but it WILL be driven hard from time to time.

I've gone back and forth a number of times over whether I should build a block or just buy a built shortblock. I am pretty dead set on buying a built short block. So in that case, what block would you guys suggest that will survive my power goal and not be too ridiculously expensive?
@Grinder34 @HolyCrapItsFast @SDMotorworks [MENTION=2334]Defined Performance[/MENTION] @Jnorth85 @Real Auto Dynamics @Alin @IGOTASTi

***Tag anyone else you can think of that could be of assistance***

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

For example, take a look at this engine. IAG claims it will handle 650hp at the crank. That should be more than sufficient for my needs...and for $3,000, that sounds like a good deal.

http://www.offthelineperformance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=8451_8453&product_id=1053

 

[SDMotorworks]

PM sent

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Thank you [MENTION=6025]SDMotorworks[/MENTION]!