Tim's Twin Scroll 06 STI: Parts review, parts ordered and more parts to come
- Thread starter STi FR3AK
- Start date
Yep I knew a long time ago, and remember I asked you for you address?
Your mom is #1 in my book.
STi FR3AK
Armyssoldierboy
Tell me about it! Since I've had the car back, I've installed:
--kartboy rear cross member bushings
-kartboy diff mount bushings
-rally armor mudflaps
-baysonR front lip
TiC subframe lock out bolts
I need to do a vacuum leak test and a few logs cuz my idle is a little goofy. The car pulls like a raped ape though!!
--kartboy rear cross member bushings
-kartboy diff mount bushings
-rally armor mudflaps
-baysonR front lip
TiC subframe lock out bolts
I need to do a vacuum leak test and a few logs cuz my idle is a little goofy. The car pulls like a raped ape though!!
STi FR3AK
Armyssoldierboy
Wow, didn't realize how long it's been since I've updated this. Well the car still runs like shit, I have a burnt o2 sensor, I might have a bad axle and I snapped a camber bolt when installing the rear coilovers. When I installed the diff mount bushings, I bent the mount pressing out the oem bushings. I thought that's where this clunking that I have comes from. Only during left turns, under throtte or all the time with 3+ people in the car. I bought another mount and am ready to install, then....I found out the nuts on the open ended studs are rounded!! 
I've done some logging on the car and it knocks with -12 on the AP.
The good, orderd some Whiteline camber bolts and I got some Vorshlag front camber plates, thanks to Geoff @ Cygnus I installed the front set just fine...well it was time consuming. I'm still waiting for the bolts since I just ordered them. Also with my car running like poop at idle and driving, having this constant slight loss of power, I wanted to check the engine. Compression test came out 105-110 across the board. Spark plugs looked a little on the white side though.
I've wrote AST and Cobb complaining how the rear perches didn't match up, come to find out I was supposed to use an adapter with the perches, which they sent. However with Cobb being the dealer for the coilovers, I wrote them stating how I was going to hop on the TiC group buy for the SST and feel like I got got when they knew exactly what we were going to do. Hopefully they send me some dust boots and rear extenders soon.
I finally did a rear diff fluid change...didn't realize that was supposed to be done every 25-30k!! It was 58k when I did it Used Royal Purple Max Gear fluid. Also did an oil change, RP there too. I still need to do a tranny fluid change. I want to order some Project Mu B-Force brake pads but will wait since the car is down anyways.
I've done some logging on the car and it knocks with -12 on the AP.The good, orderd some Whiteline camber bolts and I got some Vorshlag front camber plates, thanks to Geoff @ Cygnus
I installed the front set just fine...well it was time consuming. I'm still waiting for the bolts since I just ordered them. Also with my car running like poop at idle and driving, having this constant slight loss of power, I wanted to check the engine. Compression test came out 105-110 across the board. Spark plugs looked a little on the white side though.I've wrote AST and Cobb complaining how the rear perches didn't match up, come to find out I was supposed to use an adapter with the perches, which they sent. However with Cobb being the dealer for the coilovers, I wrote them stating how I was going to hop on the TiC group buy for the SST and feel like I got got when they knew exactly what we were going to do. Hopefully they send me some dust boots and rear extenders soon.
I finally did a rear diff fluid change...didn't realize that was supposed to be done every 25-30k!! It was 58k when I did it
Used Royal Purple Max Gear fluid. Also did an oil change, RP there too. I still need to do a tranny fluid change. I want to order some Project Mu B-Force brake pads but will wait since the car is down anyways.
STi FR3AK
Armyssoldierboy
Oh I know. It doesn't do it all the time. WOT it's fine. Only during 20-30% throttle from 2k-~4k rpm will it pull a little bit of timing.
I'm still waiting for the camber bolts. I was hoping they'd get here on Friday so I could go to work on Saturday. Looks like it'll be next weekend.
I'm still waiting for the camber bolts. I was hoping they'd get here on Friday so I could go to work on Saturday. Looks like it'll be next weekend.
STi FR3AK
Armyssoldierboy
Ever since I installed my diff mount bushings, I've had this clunk while accelerating during a left turn. Some people said bad halfshaft. After snapping that camber bolt I haven't driven the car except for the ride home. So rough times/schedules with a sick child and two working parents led me to taking my car to work today. It has a stock (sized) bolt where this mysterious camber bolt came from so I off I went. Did a 24hr shift and noticed on the way home, that the clunk during accelerating left turns is gone!! Maybe when I dropped the strut out and was able to lower the hub/axle assembly, it popped something back in place?? I didn't beat on the car in the turns for fear of what could happen but did accelerate to recreate that clunk and nothing.
I still need to mess with the front driver's strut for that clunk. It feels like there's a gap like the nut didn't torque then get preloaded. I'll mess with it when I get a chance.
The car idles and drives fine though that check engine light is there for a bad o2 sensor and my wideband no longer moves. Bet that sensor is toast too. I still have my other o2 sensor that wasn't completely fired that I can swap out. I really need to find someone with an air compressor that can be regulated. I swear it's a vacuum leak but the shops air lines here can't be adjusted so I'm just a bike pump connector which only allows for a couple seconds of listening till that sound dies...could be leaking but I want constant pressure that stops pushing once it reaches the target ie 20psi like what I did when I first installed the turbo kit. I found like 4 leaks.
I'm aiming to get some Project Mu brake pads soon too. I get that drivability issue worked out, the brake pads and finish getting these coilovers on...I'm getting some Nurburgring time in the Spring
I still need to mess with the front driver's strut for that clunk. It feels like there's a gap like the nut didn't torque then get preloaded. I'll mess with it when I get a chance.
The car idles and drives fine though that check engine light is there for a bad o2 sensor and my wideband no longer moves. Bet that sensor is toast too. I still have my other o2 sensor that wasn't completely fired that I can swap out. I really need to find someone with an air compressor that can be regulated. I swear it's a vacuum leak but the shops air lines here can't be adjusted so I'm just a bike pump connector which only allows for a couple seconds of listening till that sound dies...could be leaking but I want constant pressure that stops pushing once it reaches the target ie 20psi like what I did when I first installed the turbo kit. I found like 4 leaks.
I'm aiming to get some Project Mu brake pads soon too. I get that drivability issue worked out, the brake pads and finish getting these coilovers on...I'm getting some Nurburgring time in the Spring
STi FR3AK
Armyssoldierboy
Whoa this is out of date. Lets see, I got my coilovers installed back in March timeframe after ordering my Vorshlag V2 camber plates for the fronts. I ended up snapping a mysterious camber bolt that I never installed in the rear so ordered a set of Whiteline camber bolts. I got some Dunlop Star Specs 245/35/17's on it now too. I just had my power steering line blow on me so I have a P and L line coming. I ordered some DBA T2 Street Series rotors f/r, Project Mu B Force pads, SS lines and RBF600 fluid that arrived last week. Once I get my power steering line installed, I'm going to get the brakes installed and hopefully hit the Ring again. I went back in May, did one lap and roasted my brakes so I've been taking it easy since. It was such a rush though!! I still have 3 more laps paid for that are unused so I'm planning on going again next month if the weather hold out
Oh ya, turns out that clunking was the halfshaft. It must have become loose in the diff after doing my bushings install. After installing the coilovers, through pushing on the rotor/hub assembly to line the strut base to the hub, I must have popped it back in place cuz the noise went away
Oh ya, turns out that clunking was the halfshaft. It must have become loose in the diff after doing my bushings install. After installing the coilovers, through pushing on the rotor/hub assembly to line the strut base to the hub, I must have popped it back in place cuz the noise went away
STi FR3AK
Armyssoldierboy
Here are my brakes
I've tried to bed them in but I'm still getting used to the new brakes. Ive bled them 3 times but it feels like there might be a little air still in the lines. I'll press the pedal 1/4-1/3 before anything, then it'll start to slow and if I press harder...these pads like to bite! I've tried bedding them in an since those attempts, the pads now squeak when coming to a stop. I need to really put some heat through them. It sounds like the squeak is only coming from 1 if not both front. It hasn't annoyed me that much and I have a ton of other things to do before I will investigate them.
I've tried to bed them in but I'm still getting used to the new brakes. Ive bled them 3 times but it feels like there might be a little air still in the lines. I'll press the pedal 1/4-1/3 before anything, then it'll start to slow and if I press harder...these pads like to bite! I've tried bedding them in an since those attempts, the pads now squeak when coming to a stop. I need to really put some heat through them. It sounds like the squeak is only coming from 1 if not both front. It hasn't annoyed me that much and I have a ton of other things to do before I will investigate them.
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