Frankenstein's Creation, brought to you by Hawkeye ; )
- Thread starter Eagleye
- Start date
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
When you start the engine for the first time bring it up to between 1500 and 2000 RPM for just a minute or two to allow oil to fling off the crank and up into the cylinders. The you can let it idle and check for leaks. The initial drive should only be around the block. Then bring it back to home base and check for leaks again. For the first 20-50 mile you need to baby it and not go above 3000 rpm.
Typical break-in is really not motor specific for piston type engines. It is the same basic procedure no matter what you build. As Jordan suggests you want to change your oil very soon after you have driven the car and then replace it with a good break-in oil. I typically wait till 50 mile before I change the oil and I have even let it go to 100 miles before. You want a high zinc oil. I am of the opinion that you should not be using any kind of synthetic oil until you reach 3000 miles but I see many OEM putting synthetic oils in right from the get go so maybe there is new data out there to support this.
While you are breaking in the engine you want to vary your speed and rpm's. Don't go out on the highway and set your cruise control. When you can, engine brake as much as possible. This will create a vacuum inside the cylinder and promote the flow of oil to the rings. The key to getting your rings to seat properly is to remove heat from the cylinder walls and rings and the only way to do that is to provide sufficient oil and not get on it.
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HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Also when you start the engine for the first time expect to see some smoke and some funny smells as things burn off. If you wrapped your headers these can throw off a smell for as much as a week or more.
Eagleye
Tinkerer
And the complete and total frustration sets in again...damnit I hate and love cars....
First the heads are being a bitch, now the pressure plate is no good. When you think the car is going to be running by tomorrow and now you are scrambling for yet another part, it just makes you want to scream. O well, rant over. Basically the update is that I spent over 2 hours in the garage and the engine is on the hoist with the flywheel attached...yay!
First the heads are being a bitch, now the pressure plate is no good. When you think the car is going to be running by tomorrow and now you are scrambling for yet another part, it just makes you want to scream. O well, rant over. Basically the update is that I spent over 2 hours in the garage and the engine is on the hoist with the flywheel attached...yay!
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
What's wrong with the pressure plate?
Eagleye
Tinkerer
The throw out bearing would not release, as if the springs on the pressure plate were disassembled and reassembled. Long story short, the throw out bearing should simply pry off and it def. did not. Further investigation showed that the fingers were all mangled and we had to break the inner springs to get the throw out bearing out. So I need a new pressure plate with the center assembly installed (as they come new). Unfortunately this has pushed the drop in date back to Friday (hopefully Jordan will be able to have a new pressure plate to me by then) and added an unexpected $300. O well.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
There is a very specific procedure to get that off without incident. It involves the use of two large screwdrivers or two small pry bars at the same time. I had no installation issues that would cause what you are describing.
Just remember when it all goes together that you need to mount the throughout bearing onto the fork and the tranny before you mate the engine.
Just remember when it all goes together that you need to mount the throughout bearing onto the fork and the tranny before you mate the engine.
Eagleye
Tinkerer
2 screwdrivers isnt exactly a specific procedure.
But besides that I didnt do it, my mechanic did. All along he kept saying "I've never come across one this tight before". Then when we had to get the one ring off seperate, he saw that the fingers were messed up as if it was disassembled and reassembled. I am not trying to say you messed this up, but if you took that little ring assembly apart and put it back together on a different pressure plate, that is where the problem came from. They are not designed to do that. But don't read too much into my rants, it is my car now and I hold you accountable for nothing wrong with it, but dont worry I will give you credit for the good things haha.
Ultimately its not a big deal, it was just one more thing on a shitty week so it feels worse than it is. $300 and a few days isnt that big of a deal, im just getting anxious now that the end is in sight.
But besides that I didnt do it, my mechanic did. All along he kept saying "I've never come across one this tight before". Then when we had to get the one ring off seperate, he saw that the fingers were messed up as if it was disassembled and reassembled. I am not trying to say you messed this up, but if you took that little ring assembly apart and put it back together on a different pressure plate, that is where the problem came from. They are not designed to do that. But don't read too much into my rants, it is my car now and I hold you accountable for nothing wrong with it, but dont worry I will give you credit for the good things haha.
Ultimately its not a big deal, it was just one more thing on a shitty week so it feels worse than it is. $300 and a few days isnt that big of a deal, im just getting anxious now that the end is in sight.
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Eagleye
Tinkerer
Thanks jordan, can't say enough good things about what you do. Couldn't have gone too many places to get a good price and immediate shipping. You've got my business for life.
So, the update at this point is a new clutch will be installed tonight and a few other odds and ends will be done for the motor to be installed on friday. Should be awesome.
I thank this community (especially George) for all the help along the way. Look for an update on friday and possibly a video *fingers crossed* by Sunday.
So, the update at this point is a new clutch will be installed tonight and a few other odds and ends will be done for the motor to be installed on friday. Should be awesome.
I thank this community (especially George) for all the help along the way. Look for an update on friday and possibly a video *fingers crossed* by Sunday.
Eagleye
Tinkerer
UPDATE:
Since 1st firing it up she has been switched back to the 93oct tune and is running a little better.
As of tonight the car was running well with no leaks that I could see and it sounded ready to go. With that said it will be going out on the road tomorrow. I'm pretty pumped.
Since 1st firing it up she has been switched back to the 93oct tune and is running a little better.
As of tonight the car was running well with no leaks that I could see and it sounded ready to go. With that said it will be going out on the road tomorrow. I'm pretty pumped.
HolyCrapItsFast
Drinks beer!
Please take a log and post it or email it to me. I want to see how the fuel trims look while just driving normal
Eagleye
Tinkerer
well that lasted long...
No log to post because a leak at the power steering pump was running onto the headers, this ignited and burnt up my oil pressure wires. YAY!!!
Fortunately I got stopped quickly and it went out, so hopefully there is no serious damage other than some cosmetic, a wire, and a few other odds and ends.
No timetable on getting it back going. I need new brass seals for the power steeing line and a turbo line that I believe is the culprit for an oil leak.
No log to post because a leak at the power steering pump was running onto the headers, this ignited and burnt up my oil pressure wires. YAY!!!
Fortunately I got stopped quickly and it went out, so hopefully there is no serious damage other than some cosmetic, a wire, and a few other odds and ends.
No timetable on getting it back going. I need new brass seals for the power steeing line and a turbo line that I believe is the culprit for an oil leak.
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