Ooookay, so I'm bringing this back from the dead for a few reasons. I think it has a lot of potential to answer questions that others may have and I wanted to go over a couple specifics that we didn't touch on before.
Once again, a big thank you to George a.k.a. HolyCrapItsFast for the best damn explanations I've ever received from anyone. It's great to have you here buddy! :tup:
Sooo...let's get to it.
That's what I was thinking. I chose my previous mods (except injectors) to give me that power potential with the exception of forged internals which I would add later for reliability. Until the forged internals were installed, I would only run moderate tune yielding less than 400whp for reliability's sake.
George mentioned TGV deletes. A few years ago, during my big bolt-on and tuning extravaganza, we ran into problems with the TGV deletes I had purchased. They were physically too wide to allow my new turbo inlet to fit. I was on a crazy time budget and had to have the car ready so I could meet my "report no later than" date on my orders. :lol: So we made a decision to leave those out of the picture for the time being. Since then I have traded those TGVs for other parts, so I will purchase new ones before this build.
Heads:
I will clean them all up nicely and drop in 264 cams. I originally thought I'd install +1mm valves and half a shop do the bowl blending to match. I recently had an experienced source tell me that +1mm valves are not necessary and yield minimal power gains at best.
-Is this true? Should they still be considered?
-I am considering replacing any worn components in the heads as necessary such as valve springs. Thoughts on the necessity of this?
Engine Building and Auxiliaries:
I see that many engine builders suggest replacing auxiliaries such as the water pump before installing the new motor.
-What auxiliary's should I replace?
-I'm leaning towards buying a built shortblock and having a friend help me install it because it would probably be more reliable than replacing the internals in my current motor.
* Should I swap over all the auxiliaries from my motor or order all new? (60,000 miles on the motor now, probably 70k by the time I get this all done.)
That should be enough to get the ball rolling... Thanks in advance guys for all your input! :bow:
Once again, a big thank you to George a.k.a. HolyCrapItsFast for the best damn explanations I've ever received from anyone. It's great to have you here buddy! :tup:
Sooo...let's get to it.
That's what I was thinking. I chose my previous mods (except injectors) to give me that power potential with the exception of forged internals which I would add later for reliability. Until the forged internals were installed, I would only run moderate tune yielding less than 400whp for reliability's sake.
George mentioned TGV deletes. A few years ago, during my big bolt-on and tuning extravaganza, we ran into problems with the TGV deletes I had purchased. They were physically too wide to allow my new turbo inlet to fit. I was on a crazy time budget and had to have the car ready so I could meet my "report no later than" date on my orders. :lol: So we made a decision to leave those out of the picture for the time being. Since then I have traded those TGVs for other parts, so I will purchase new ones before this build.
Heads:
I will clean them all up nicely and drop in 264 cams. I originally thought I'd install +1mm valves and half a shop do the bowl blending to match. I recently had an experienced source tell me that +1mm valves are not necessary and yield minimal power gains at best.
-Is this true? Should they still be considered?
-I am considering replacing any worn components in the heads as necessary such as valve springs. Thoughts on the necessity of this?
Engine Building and Auxiliaries:
I see that many engine builders suggest replacing auxiliaries such as the water pump before installing the new motor.
-What auxiliary's should I replace?
-I'm leaning towards buying a built shortblock and having a friend help me install it because it would probably be more reliable than replacing the internals in my current motor.
* Should I swap over all the auxiliaries from my motor or order all new? (60,000 miles on the motor now, probably 70k by the time I get this all done.)
That should be enough to get the ball rolling... Thanks in advance guys for all your input! :bow:
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, I'm not sure what you are saying about the TGVs because they should be no different than the stock unit and they should be even more low profile because you can eliminate the servo and the sensor. You should really consider the TGV deletes because they are a real source of flow resistance. Perhaps have a look at the composite TGVs that Turn In Concepts sells. I think they are more low profile than the stock unit and the price is reasonable.
