New member from Utah

[Ryanveld]

Hi guys I stumbled across this site on Facebook. Figured I'd join and see what's up. I have an 06 sgm STI. I've had the car for 2 years and have done a few mods. I'm currently running e85 and synod at 333 whp and 428 tq. I'm still on the stock block and stock turbo for now. I'm trying to get 350 out of it. We'll see this altitude sucks. Well that's about it. I can add pics and a mod list later if ya want.

Thanks.

Ryan

 

[Paul.c]

Howdy. And yes we do want pictures and a mod list. personally I like pictures of mods, reading is hard.

 

[Ryanveld]

Here ya go

Well here it is.


Engine and drivetrain Mods:
Grimmspeed BCS
Grimmspeed AOS
Grimmspeed Ported Exhaust Manifold collectors
Grimmspeed Big Crossover pipe
Grimmspeed 8mm Phenolic Spacers
Grimmspeed Thermostat
Grimmspeed TGV Gaskets
Grimmspeed Exhaust Mani Gaskets
Grimmspeed Exh Mani to uppipe Gasket
APS 70mm CAI
APS 3in Turbo inlet
APS 3in Down Pipe
APS Cat Back
APS D/R 525 Stealth Black FMIC
Cleverly Tuned TGV Deletes
Cleverly Open source tune E85
Defi Boost Gauge and Control box
Innovative solutions wide band
Mishimoto Radiator
Weapon-R Coolant overflow bottle
Gimmick Motorsports Rad hoses
Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Brace
Kartboy Exhaust Hangers
Kartboy Short Shifter
Kartboy Front and rear shifter bushings
Kartboy Rear Diff Outrigger Bushings (HARD BLACK)
Kartboy Transmission Cross Member Bushings
Kartboy Rear Subframe Lock Down Bolts
Group N Tranny Mount
Perrin Rad Schroud
Power Enterprise 850cc injectors
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
Clutch Masters Stage 3 Clutch and aluminum flywheel
Amsoil 0w30 Oil
Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 Gear oil
Amsoil Dominater Coolant Boost


Suspension, Brakes, Wheels:
Tein Coilovers
22mm Cusco Front sway bar
24mm Cobb rear sway bar
Kartboy Solid end links front and back
SS Brake lines
Ebay Strut tower bar
18in XXR Rims crap ass all season 18s DD
17in BBS rims Nitto NT01 track
Headlights Cleared and painted by me
Ebay Front lip


Interior:
Subtle Solutions 2 gauge ashtray delete
I plastidipped my silver trim cause it was scratched to ****
Subtle solutions black HVAC stickers
Pioneer 7 inch Touch screen DVD
2 10 inch Polk Audio Subs
Pioneer Amp*

 

[IGOTASTi]

:welcome: to the team. Glad your here. You have a super nice STi.

 

[Ryanveld]

oops that's not accurate I have since changed now that I am on E85. ok I'll explain something first. I am an Amsoil dealer and in Amsoil we have 3 different tiers of oil. I was going with the best at 0w-30 and I loved it. However when I switched over to E I was told to change my oil more often because the ethanol saturates the oil somehow. That still doesn't make sense to me. So because of that I switched to a lower tier oil that was less expensive and only had 5w30 and not 0w30.

My source for the following is a great website called Bobistheoilguy.com specifically this page http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

So a 30 weight oil at average operating temp of 212 degrees is a certain thickness whether it is a 0w30 or a 10w30. The difference is in the start up temp. I can't remember the exact name for the measurement of thickness but here is an example:

At operating temp of 212 all 30W oil is a thickness of 10cS

At 75 degrees 10w30 has a thickness of 100cS

and at 75 degrees 0w30 has a thickness of 40 cS

So the 0 weight oil is closer to operating temp thickness than 5w30 or 10w30. " Now you can see that the difference between the desired thickness your engine requires ( = 10 ) is closest to the 0W-30 oil at startup. It is still too thick for normal operation. But it does not have far to go before it warms up and thins to the correct viscosity. Remember that most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too thick to lubricate properly. It cannot flow and therefore cannot lubricate"

 

[Z1107]

Hello and welcome!

 

[ZachTTLM]

hello and welcome to the group, Beautiful car!

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Welcome to the forum! Absolutely gorgeous car man! :tup:

E85 has moisture issues. The real issue comes when you don't warm up the car and don't drive for a long enough periods of time to allow the moisture to escape. Moisture builds up in the crank case and contaminates the oil and condensates in the blow by system and can cause sludge to build up.

I just heard of a conditioner you can use that will minimize this effect and improve cold start ups as well. I believe it is a Lucas product. Something you might want to try in the future.

Check out the member's Journals and feel free to start your own!

oops that's not accurate I have since changed now that I am on E85. ok I'll explain something first. I am an Amsoil dealer and in Amsoil we have 3 different tiers of oil. I was going with the best at 0w-30 and I loved it. However when I switched over to E I was told to change my oil more often because the ethanol saturates the oil somehow. That still doesn't make sense to me. So because of that I switched to a lower tier oil that was less expensive and only had 5w30 and not 0w30.

My source for the following is a great website called Bobistheoilguy.com specifically this page http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

So a 30 weight oil at average operating temp of 212 degrees is a certain thickness whether it is a 0w30 or a 10w30. The difference is in the start up temp. I can't remember the exact name for the measurement of thickness but here is an example:

At operating temp of 212 all 30W oil is a thickness of 10cS

At 75 degrees 10w30 has a thickness of 100cS

and at 75 degrees 0w30 has a thickness of 40 cS

So the 0 weight oil is closer to operating temp thickness than 5w30 or 10w30. " Now you can see that the difference between the desired thickness your engine requires ( = 10 ) is closest to the 0W-30 oil at startup. It is still too thick for normal operation. But it does not have far to go before it warms up and thins to the correct viscosity. Remember that most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too thick to lubricate properly. It cannot flow and therefore cannot lubricate"

 

[BAD STI]

Love the car! Thats a good looking mod list. Welcome to the forum. :tup:

 

[Ryanveld]

Thank you all for the kind words. I hope that I can contribute to the group. I am very active with my home group slcsubaru.com.

 

[Ryanveld]

Welcome to the forum! Absolutely gorgeous car man! :tup:

E85 has moisture issues. The real issue comes when you don't warm up the car and don't drive for a long enough periods of time to allow the moisture to escape. Moisture builds up in the crank case and contaminates the oil and condensates in the blow by system and can cause sludge to build up.

I just heard of a conditioner you can use that will minimize this effect and improve cold start ups as well. I believe it is a Lucas product. Something you might want to try in the future.

Check out the member's Journals and feel free to start your own!

Thank you very much for this info I will look into it. So would you recommend not haveing an AOS and just having a catch can on E?

 

[Cornblakes78]

Dude where did you buy your STI from. Wasn't in riverdale was it? Looks like the one I traded in a couple years ago...

 

[Ryanveld]

Lol yes it actually was in Riverdale. I've been waiting to run into the previous owner.

 

[Cornblakes78]

Lol yes it actually was in Riverdale. I've been waiting to run into the previous owner.

Haha I think that was my old car. It came with those xxr's right? looks like you swapped out the spoiler. Which is what I was going to do also. Where abouts are you from? I'm in Clinton driving s DGM 08 STI.

 

[Ryanveld]

Wow small world. I live up in Farr West. I've done quite a bit to it. I'm surprised I haven't ran into you before. I am a very active member of Slcsubaru.com. Have you ever gotten on there?

 

[Cornblakes78]

Wow small world. I live up in Farr West. I've done quite a bit to it. I'm surprised I haven't ran into you before. I am a very active member of Slcsubaru.com. Have you ever gotten on there?

Yea I get on there once and a while. I'll prob do the Japanese dinner outing thing so I can meet some of the other members. I'm new to this forum, but a regular on iwsti. We should hook up sometime. I'd like to see the old whip and what you've done to her. Let me know

 

[Ryanveld]

Yeah man for sure. I am going out of town for Jan - Feb so if they do that dinner then I wont go but I will for sure if I am here. Yeah I'd like to know a little about the cars past. It was running pretty rough when I got it. Did you have an AP on it before you traded it in? I am aware of the accident you had. I had a carfax done.

here is a link to my build thread. http://slcsubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=28

 

[Cornblakes78]

Yeah man for sure. I am going out of town for Jan - Feb so if they do that dinner then I wont go but I will for sure if I am here. Yeah I'd like to know a little about the cars past. It was running pretty rough when I got it. Did you have an AP on it before you traded it in? I am aware of the accident you had. I had a carfax done.

here is a link to my build thread. http://slcsubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=28

I bought the car used. It had a invidia cat less DP and a piece of crap looked like eBay exhaust when I bought it. Also had a no name BOV. I replaced all that with an Invidia catted DP, HKS hi power exhaust and the HKS ssqv BOV and added a AP, but sold the ap before I traded it in. Yea some ass bag rear ended me on riverdale rd one afternoon and shortly after I traded her in. I hadn't had much experience with subaru's at that point or I would have recirculated the BOV. I heard from the dealer(whom I'll never go to again) that the motor had issues. I can't tell if that was my mistake or the previous owners, but from the set up it had when I bought it. It was most likely the previous owners doings. Let me know if you ever want to get together.

 

[Ryanveld]

The Stealership was dumb. There was nothing wrong with the car mechanically. It was over boosting that was it I took a look and found a turboxs man boost controller that was cranked up. I took that out and it ran fine. Had CELs but that was from the DP. Like Dummies they told me it had engine problems when I looked at it and I used that to my advantage. I talked them down from 25,000 to 17,000 2 years ago. lol so not too bad. I have not had any issues that weren't of my own doing. I have Tein coilovers on it and had a lower bracket break when I was driving. Luckily it wasnt on I15 or on the track. No major damage. just the brackets broke and Tein sent me new ones. Basically its a completely different car now. I change things up from time to time.

 

[Ryanveld]

I wasnt trying to sound like a know it all. I have alot to learn.

Thank you for the info I will look into it. I run the OE 5w30 now because Im changing it all the time. Here in Utah Amsoil is mostly just in the Diesels from what I have found. I have not heard much about the Zrod. Maybe I will try that next.

I was solely going on that info I found on that site and from what amsoil recommended. Currently I dont have any customers on 0w30. Once the 5w30 ASL came out they all switched over on their own.

Thank you