Yes it is. Thanks for the heads up. I will still have to order a few things it seems. :tup:
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The Batmobile_Engage Member Journal
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Did some rust abatement and paint prep on the oil pan, header and up pipe.
I had to cut off and drill out some old hardware as well, sand everything down and start in with the loctite extend. I brought everything in the house to cure since rust eliminator works faster and more thoroughly in warmer temperatures.
Later I'll use the primer and black matte high temp paint.
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I had to cut off and drill out some old hardware as well, sand everything down and start in with the loctite extend. I brought everything in the house to cure since rust eliminator works faster and more thoroughly in warmer temperatures.
Later I'll use the primer and black matte high temp paint.
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When ordering the exhaust gaskets for turbo and up pipe I like to use the grim speed ones because they are same design as oem but thicker giving you a better seal
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They will get rewrapped and then painted with a wrap sealer and then high temp black. At least that is the current plan.
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Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Sick!! Please post pictures of every step!
This is how bad everything was beforehand. The O2 sensor was so seized that I couldnt get it loose with a wrench. Ended up cutting it off with a diamond blade rotary tool and busted it loose with a socket and 30" breaker bar. 
I just looked at everything in the storage room and its pretty much done drying. The (cream colored before application) purplish coating (post #1402) turns black when it is done converting the Iron Oxide to Iron Sulfate, which prevents further corosion.
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I just looked at everything in the storage room and its pretty much done drying. The (cream colored before application) purplish coating (post #1402) turns black when it is done converting the Iron Oxide to Iron Sulfate, which prevents further corosion.
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Wet, standing for a bit.
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Photos are crap, but everything is sitting in the storage room overnight to cure.
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Hell yeah. It doesn't really matter that much if they look good, though I do try to produce a quality product. Hopefully, the surface will never been seen again, since I plan to wrap and seal/paint over. I want to make absolutely sure that they don't corrode ever again.
VHT paints are pretty good if you do decent prep work. There is micornized ceramic in the paint that can be baked on. My wife would kill me if I put them in the oven :lol: and there's not much need to, as they will surely get hot enough in the future to fully cure the ceramic coating. Not only should this prevent corrosion, but it will also help the wrap keep more heat in the header and up-pipe, spooling the turbo faster AND reducing engine bay heat soak.
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I'm fairly certain I am going to give the same treatment to my old turbocharger before I sell it.
(Speaking of which... Bump! Bump! :lol: Anyone interested? It's in phenominal condition. ZERO shaft play. I take care of stuff pretty well but even I was amazed.)
I just wonder if I should VHT pain the hotside of the brand new turbo. (I would be taping it off completely, NOT taking it apart.)
I am considering a turbo blanket AND reinstalling the stock heat shield over top of it. I had previous cut the stock heat shield to fit my larger turbo and downpipe.
(Speaking of which... Bump! Bump! :lol: Anyone interested? It's in phenominal condition. ZERO shaft play. I take care of stuff pretty well but even I was amazed.)
I just wonder if I should VHT pain the hotside of the brand new turbo. (I would be taping it off completely, NOT taking it apart.)
I am considering a turbo blanket AND reinstalling the stock heat shield over top of it. I had previous cut the stock heat shield to fit my larger turbo and downpipe.
That's probably true. I guess I won't bother and risk messing up a nice new turbo.
And no, I don't think I'm wrapping the downpipe. But then again, maybe I should do the first 18-24" to keep heat out of the engine bay. Otherwise, you usually want exhaust to cool as quickly as possible after it leaves the turbo.
I guess I haven't decided yet.
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Once again, crappy cell phone pics in bad light. But you get the picture.
(Up-pipe and turbo bracket also complete, but not pictured.)
The oil pan is all ready, not fully cured yet, but hard enough to be installed. If I don't get on that tonight, I will tomorrow for sure.
We are planning to sell our house this year, so I've begun doing a lot of lawn maintenance to produce the best curb appeal. It's pretty time and energy consuming.
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(Up-pipe and turbo bracket also complete, but not pictured.)
The oil pan is all ready, not fully cured yet, but hard enough to be installed. If I don't get on that tonight, I will tomorrow for sure.
We are planning to sell our house this year, so I've begun doing a lot of lawn maintenance to produce the best curb appeal. It's pretty time and energy consuming.
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Oil pan is bolted and permatex'd (black) in place.
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I was just reading through the literature that comes with IAG shortblocks. They state, "you MUST run an Air/Oil Separator with a built engine...", so I look them up and HOLY SHIT are they expensive! Tuner mods have really gone through the roof in pricing over the last few years. It's getting pretty ridiculous.
I mean, c'mon man...it's a $400 pop can with some hose fittings on it. :doh:
I mean, c'mon man...it's a $400 pop can with some hose fittings on it. :doh:
Eagleye
Tinkerer
They are really salty, but unlike a catch can, air oil separators actually have more going on internally to separate and return air and oil to their respective systems. You can still buy a catch can for $50. Any decent AOS is going to be $300 and up. Good units have coolant lines run to them as well to keep everything at the proper temperatures, avoiding condensation and other temperature related issues.
I don't look forward to purchasing one either, but buying one like the IAG unit seems to be a solid investment whether it is a MUST or not.
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