Sliderbandit
Member
I did quite a bit of research into this and believe it is a good investment.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
The Batmobile_Engage Member Journal
- Thread starter Batmobile_Engage
- Start date
Well, today is the next big step in the Batmobile Build: transmission removal. Joe is coming over at 10 am to assist. I've already got the upper and lower fluid reservoirs drained.
Remember the grinding issues I was having (which is the whole point of the trans work I'm having done)? Take a look at these pictures of the magnet in the lower trans fluid pan. COVERED with metal grindings and filings.
Pictured: magnet before and after cleaning.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Remember the grinding issues I was having (which is the whole point of the trans work I'm having done)? Take a look at these pictures of the magnet in the lower trans fluid pan. COVERED with metal grindings and filings.
Pictured: magnet before and after cleaning.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
The assumption is that the synchros have eaten themselves. So I'm not terribly surprised with what I found. Thought you guys would enjoy seeing the carnage.
I'll try to get some pictures of the internals next week when I take it to the shop. The guy said he would crack it open on the bench while I was still there, so I could learn more about manual transmissions.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
The trans is out! And we didn't even have to pull the front suspension!
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Yes. That AND the fact that the front top of the transmission can get water blown on it if you have a vent or scoop and a FMIC. So a lot of the white color is aluminum surface corosion.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
4th was the worst. It started in 5th, but only slightly. Then 4th went to shit, and not long after 3rd and 2nd went too.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Hopefully this was the last big expense for the engine build, besides whatever the transmission work is going to cost.
I got a hold of Jordan yesterday and ordered the half moon seals, up-pipe-turbo and turbo-downpipe gaskets (Grimmspeed), as [MENTION=5388]Raven32[/MENTION] suggested. Also got a turbo inlet coupler that will work with my new snail, 15 quarts of Motul Break-In 10W40 and an IAG Air/Oil Separator.
I've got an appointment with TRE in Kalamazoo for 4pm, this Friday. Let's hope there aren't any expensive surprises inside the transmission.
I got a hold of Jordan yesterday and ordered the half moon seals, up-pipe-turbo and turbo-downpipe gaskets (Grimmspeed), as [MENTION=5388]Raven32[/MENTION] suggested. Also got a turbo inlet coupler that will work with my new snail, 15 quarts of Motul Break-In 10W40 and an IAG Air/Oil Separator.
I've got an appointment with TRE in Kalamazoo for 4pm, this Friday. Let's hope there aren't any expensive surprises inside the transmission.
Last edited:
Eagleye
Tinkerer
Did you go with the street or competition series AOS? Why? And (you can pm me this answer) how much from Jordan? I already have him quoting like 10 things so I can save some time just asking you on this one.
I'm kind of ashamed to say, I'm not sure. I'll get a hold of Jordan later and double check. He only carries two IAG AOS models. The competition series is $379 and the street is $399. I think we went with the competition.
I just looked at the two spec sheets and maybe I should be getting the Street instead, due to it being "ideal for E85 applications".
I'm planning to be set up to run E85, but will probaby run 93 octane most of the time. I wonder how much difference the AOS makes between 93 and E85...
Eagleye
Tinkerer
With the IAG models it shouldn't be a problem with e85 vs 93. Other models that do not keep the unit at the proper temperature run the risk of introducing condensation as the engine bay temps can affect the temp of the AOS vs the air and oil it is moving. I was just curious what you picked and why (and the price) as I might pick one up during my next spending spree.
Transmission, before and after trans mount removal.
Oh, another thing... @Grinder34, that discoloration appears to be some staining from transmission fluid or something else like that. Since it's the first time I've had the transmission out myself (it's been out a few times before, done by shops), I can't really tell you what happened.
Disclaimer: Be suuuuuper careful standing your trans like this. You must have a void for the input shaft to sit in. Plus, it could always fall over and crack open or crush your foot.
Oh, another thing... @Grinder34, that discoloration appears to be some staining from transmission fluid or something else like that. Since it's the first time I've had the transmission out myself (it's been out a few times before, done by shops), I can't really tell you what happened.
Disclaimer: Be suuuuuper careful standing your trans like this. You must have a void for the input shaft to sit in. Plus, it could always fall over and crack open or crush your foot.
Last edited:
Ehh, ~180 lbs. I would imagine. My wife and I were able to load it into the trunk of her Equinox last night, so it can't be a whole lot more than that. A quick search turns up a few responses saying 192 lbs, but that seems to be a little bit to much. Maybe 192 with the mount/cradle attached.
I'm leaving work around 1:30 today and driving it to TRE in Kalamazoo. :tup:
Last edited:
This place is GREAT! They cracked it open on the bench for me while I was there. No gear damage, though the plastic pads on the shift forks are gone or nearly gone and many of the synchros are severely worn. Not bad enough to hurt anything, but bad enough that they don't work anymore. :lol:
They showed me how the whole trans operates, including how the DCCD works inside. And also went over the gear edge trimming, polishing, coating, shot peening, etc. that they do. I can hardly wait. This trans is going to be buttery smooth.
It's too hard to see the synchro wear in these pics, but look at the shift forks with the yellow pads. Then look at the shift forks in my trans. The yellow pads are either gone or nearly gone. :lol:
These guys are going to replace the plastic factory type fork pads with a bronze type material (I believe) that they make in house.
www.teamrip.com Kalamazoo, MI
They showed me how the whole trans operates, including how the DCCD works inside. And also went over the gear edge trimming, polishing, coating, shot peening, etc. that they do. I can hardly wait. This trans is going to be buttery smooth.
It's too hard to see the synchro wear in these pics, but look at the shift forks with the yellow pads. Then look at the shift forks in my trans. The yellow pads are either gone or nearly gone. :lol:
These guys are going to replace the plastic factory type fork pads with a bronze type material (I believe) that they make in house.
www.teamrip.com Kalamazoo, MI
Last edited:
Sliderbandit
Member
It is great that they took it apart while you were there and walked you through what they are planning to do. Great pics.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Absolutely! That was great! If you ever need any transmission work done, I'd highly recommend them. After all, you can't be THAT far from Kalamazoo. :tup: The drive would be totally worth it.
Similar threads
