The Batmobile_Engage Member Journal
- Thread starter Batmobile_Engage
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Grinder34
Track Monkey
Why dont you do both?!
Seriously though, I thought I remembered reading a ton of threads about how safe meth is with proper fail safes. Is that not the case?
Why dont you do both?!
Seriously though, I thought I remembered reading a ton of threads about how safe meth is with proper fail safes. Is that not the case?
With the proper fail safes and a properly operating system, methanol injection is very safe. My setup has fail safe options, but I'd need to buy a couple things to get that all installed. I've tried talking to AEM about it, but their customer service leaves a lot to be desired. I've also been having some weird error codes flashing on the indicator lamp for my methanol system controller. The controller and lamp has a number of predetermined codes that can be looked up by simply counting the number of flashes in a cycle. Unfortunately, what my system is doing has no corresponding code in the manual. I've even taken videos of what it is doing and sent it to AEM. They just bounce me around to a half a dozen different people after keeping me on hold forrrrevvvver. None of these people can (or care to) help me.
I've run multiple tests on my system and it IS pumping methanol properly, despite the erroneous error flashing. Regardless, over time I've had a number of different hose fittings break causing a huge pool of methanol in the trunk or spraying around in the engine bay. I've been able to fix them without buying additional parts...for now. I tried to order a couple specific pieces from AEM and---you guessed it---they were unwilling to help me get the exact pieces I needed. They instead suggested that I buy a full parts/install kit, which I'm not @#$%ing doing. :lol:
So at this point, I'm just @#$%ing done with this crap. I'd hate to keep jerry-rigging it, have it eventually fail dramatically and grenade my brand new engine. So I'm probably going to part out the system and put it up for sale when the time comes for the build.
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I am still seriously considering a Flex Fuel setup, though I think they are still pretty damn expensive. I think [MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION] might have the hookup on a reasonably priced system and I know he knows how to set it all up, since he was running E85 (with a Haltech flex fuel setup, I believe) on his monstrous EVO. I'll have to see what he has to say about it.
E85 is fairly common in my area, though I'm still a little paranoid. A couple years ago, the local tuner car Facebook pages around here were absolutely covered with horrific posts about severe engine damage due to poor quality E85. Eventually those posts turned into pictures of E85 that was pumped into a gas can and then poured into a mason jar. The fuel contained an enormous amount of water as well as dirt. Actual @#$%ing dirt...as if someone swept the garage floor and poured the dustpan into the jar with the fuel and water. A couple of the guys tried to get the gas stations to own up to it or pay for their repairs, and of course were not successful. One guy in particular, sued one of the stations in question and lost.
So while this is probably not still an issue, those events have scared me away from E85.
Don't get me wrong, I do want to make as much power as I can with this build. But I also want to do it without spending oodles of money. Most importantly, I want it to be as reliable as possible. One day, I hope to pass this car onto my son who is due in late May.
The more complicated I make the build, the less likely it'll survive for ~20 years until I can pass it on.
Hopefully I can reliably/safely put at least 450hp/tq to the wheels.
The more complicated I make the build, the less likely it'll survive for ~20 years until I can pass it on.
Hopefully I can reliably/safely put at least 450hp/tq to the wheels.
Allot better flow and the two piece that cones off the legacy I believe is the easiest mod since it bolts to your tgv housings. The one 2.5i piece requires fuel rails spacers and phenolic spacers to clear the avcs sensors.
Larger plenum better matched runner flow per cylinder and supposedly increase in Tourque and no thru out the power band.
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Yeah I only have exp with my 2.5i long runner mani. Do yuou have to slot the na manifold to bolt to the TGV housings? I've seen people weld them to TGV as well and of course the FMIC piping has to be modded and allot of shaving can be done to make the manifold look better then stock.
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I am referring to the fact that it's different years, NA vs. Turbo, different sensors and bolt locations for them, etc.
How wild is OP going deleting things, moving things, tucking and hiding. Making new brackets to fit, etc.
I mean a quick google will bring up a few in depth threads as well.
How wild is OP going deleting things, moving things, tucking and hiding. Making new brackets to fit, etc.
I mean a quick google will bring up a few in depth threads as well.
Yes I see what your saying but if I recall correctly Batmobile is pretty mechanically inclined. I also don't believe he would just blindly jump in to doing the mod with out researching the process first.
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The Bat better know
I thought that what Batman?s super power was .
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Ummmm.....no thanks. :lol: I'd like to keep this as simple as reasonably possible.
The Bat better know
I'm pretty handy, but I have also grown tired of Frankenstein'ed projects. I don't want to make anything more complicated than it needs to be. I've got a child coming in May and my wife is already getting pissed (after she said she wouldn't, what a surprise) about how much the Subaru is going to cost. The crap I had to deal with this weekend nearly made me put it up for sale. :banghead:
Well I ran E85 for about 4 years. There are a few ways to make sure you dont have failures.
1) test the e85 at the beginning of the year.
2) clean your injectors every year you store it
3) get fuel from the same place every time you fill up (there was a shell that had pretty much e90 all throughout the summer and about e80 in the winter blend)
4) get an e85 readout gauge
5) have the proper fail safes in the ecu to cut ignition and or fuel
When I did travel or go further than I planned, I filled up 2 5 gallon tanks and strapped them in the trunk. This way I knew the gas I put in was from the same station I tested.
With the proper flex setup, you can put regular pump gas in and shouldnt have any issues when traveling further than you can take fuel with you.
With e85 issues, most of the old tanks used to be diesel fuel. They would drain them and put in e85. If you got the bottom of the barrel, you started pumping some diesel. Also, e85 is hydroscopic and attracts water. If the tanks are not used often, they start to rust inside and this is where you see debris getting into the tank. This is why you want to find a station that has high traffic so the fuel isnt sitting for a long time. You should have a 6 micron filter in your car with any aftermarket setup with dual pumps, injectors etc... For $80 you save the $1000 injectors from getting destroyed with debris.
1) test the e85 at the beginning of the year.
2) clean your injectors every year you store it
3) get fuel from the same place every time you fill up (there was a shell that had pretty much e90 all throughout the summer and about e80 in the winter blend)
4) get an e85 readout gauge
5) have the proper fail safes in the ecu to cut ignition and or fuel
When I did travel or go further than I planned, I filled up 2 5 gallon tanks and strapped them in the trunk. This way I knew the gas I put in was from the same station I tested.
With the proper flex setup, you can put regular pump gas in and shouldnt have any issues when traveling further than you can take fuel with you.
With e85 issues, most of the old tanks used to be diesel fuel. They would drain them and put in e85. If you got the bottom of the barrel, you started pumping some diesel. Also, e85 is hydroscopic and attracts water. If the tanks are not used often, they start to rust inside and this is where you see debris getting into the tank. This is why you want to find a station that has high traffic so the fuel isnt sitting for a long time. You should have a 6 micron filter in your car with any aftermarket setup with dual pumps, injectors etc... For $80 you save the $1000 injectors from getting destroyed with debris.
The ultimate question is, will I be able to make at least 450whp with my current turbo and the shortblock I want, on 93 octane?
Because if so, then I see no huge reason to go with E85. I want to make this build as simple/reliable as possible.
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:angry: WHY THE @#$% is it so difficult to find and converse with a transmission shop willing to work on a Subaru 6-speed!!! This is driving me insane.
Anything you can think of in Ohio, [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION]?
Anything you can think of in Ohio, [MENTION=1172]Alin[/MENTION]?
Alin
Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Sorry, haven't looked into it. [MENTION=1]IGOTASTi[/MENTION] [MENTION=3416]WRB_STi[/MENTION] maybe know?
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