TMIC fan mod Q&A

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Very nice. Looks great.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Wow! That is looking very nice!!!!! :tup:
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
No shit! Awesome!!!! :bigtup:

Sooo excited!!!!!! :D

Make sure you autograph it!!!! :tard: [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION]
 
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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
No shit! Awesome!!!! :bigtup:

Sooo excited!!!!!! :D

Make sure you autograph it!!!! :tard: @HolyCrapItsFast

I did! Can't you se the "HolyCrapItsFast Tuning" logo? :lol:

Badass, George!! I want to see it installed and working!

Wow that is really high quality work! Very professional presentation. Can't wait to see it in action

Me to... I'm keeping my fingers crossed. It will either work perfectly or we will see a mushroom cloud over the mid west. :tup:

Beautiful job, George! :bow:

Thunk you sir! I spent allot of time but I had fun doing it.

Now to finish the boost gauges. :tup:
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Ok, so update!

Today, the package arrived with the parts! :tup:

I got majority of the work done already. The only thing I will have to do in the morning is going to be to hook up the wire from the rear I/C splicing to the main unit up front. It got dark and I couldn't see shit, so I left everything how it was and will continue in the morning once daylight breaks.

I removed the speakers and the headunit as well. :tup: :tard:

Now..... Warning.....

Everything will pretty much look ghetto as fuck, so I don't want to hear it! As long as everything functions correctly, I could give a shit how it looks. :rofl: So, don't expect it look insanely nice. :lol:
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Ok, let's begin:

Now, I don't want to hear any crap! :lol: I know it isn't aesthetic, but it functions and that's all I care!!! :tup:



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Now, I also removed the rear passenger support bar. Thing is about 15 pounds!!! I never have people in the back, so it's useless and since I had everything out anyways, it was a perfect time. :lol: :tup:

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Ok [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION] ,tell me what the issue I'm having with the I/C sprayer is. I also reread the functions of the system and want you to know that I did NOT see any yellow or red displays. I have boosted as high as 15 psi and nothing. I also sent you that video of what happens when I manually depress the switch on the display and no noises come from the I/C motor.
 

IGOTASTi

System Operator
Staff member
Wire loom them wires. :)
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
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Ok @HolyCrapItsFast ,tell me what the issue I'm having with the I/C sprayer is. I also reread the functions of the system and want you to know that I did NOT see any yellow or red displays. I have boosted as high as 15 psi and nothing. I also sent you that video of what happens when I manually depress the switch on the display and no noises come from the I/C motor.

I'm not sure what I am looking at but it looks like you might have the blue and the purple wires reversed. To test this, disconnect both the blue and purple wire and check voltage at the purple wire while the IC spray is active. You should see 12 volts. The blue wire should have no voltage. If that works then remove the diode tap from all three wires and jumper a lead from the orange wire to one of the ic spray wires, at a time, while the IC spray is active. Which ever one drives the motor is the one you put the purple wire on.

Also I forgot to tell you that beside reversing polarity on the fans to make them push, you also have to remove the fan blades and turn them around.

And I agree with JJ... Get some wire loom!!!
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
Oh and I omitted the yellow display and the red display only comes on when there is heat soak which only occurs when the temperature underneath the IC is above something like 145*... I think.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
Ok, so first thing is first: I bought some red wire loom! :tard:

Second, I will get to the I/C sprayer wiring tomorrow.

Third, I went out for a 3 hour cruise. More for my enjoyment rather than monitoring the temperatures. :tard: So, after pretty much having my eyes glued on the display, all I have to say is this: holy crap temperatures rise insanely quick and also drop insanely quick! For example: Cruising at 40 mph or at 70 mph, it seems on average that the temperatures under the hood are about 20* higher than ambient that's shown on my cluster. The moment I arrive at a light, the temperatures start to creep up. I noticed anything over a minute at a light and the temperatures were hovering around 110*. Ambient was about 70-80* depending how close to the lake I got. Now, I got stuck at a light for about 2-3 minutes and the temperatures skyrocketed right to 135*. Both fans kick on when the sensor under the intercooler reads 120*. So, 135* was the highest reading that I have seen thus far. I will see how it is with the I/C sprayer kicking on tomorrow after I fix the issue with the wiring in the rear. And one more thing: I haven't really gotten on it lately and holy crap man. Once that torque kicks in, it's pure extacy! :rofl: :ty: [MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION]
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
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@HolyCrapItsFast
I was thinking about and looked at the information provided again. These fans have push and pull functions. It doesn't say in the description that the blades have to be turned over on the other side.

OE Fitment or Replacement, Push or Pull Type

Also, one more thing. How the hell do you get a temperature reading through an auxiliary cable?! :tard:
 

HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
@HolyCrapItsFast
I was thinking about and looked at the information provided again. These fans have push and pull functions. It doesn't say in the description that the blades have to be turned over on the other side.

OE Fitment or Replacement, Push or Pull Type

Also, one more thing. How the hell do you get a temperature reading through an auxiliary cable?! :tard:

The fan blades are curved toward the direction it turns. If you don't turn the blade around you won't have near as much flow. :tup:

I don't understand the last question.
 

Alin

Diehard Car Enthusiast!
The fan blades are curved toward the direction it turns. If you don't turn the blade around you won't have near as much flow. :tup:

I don't understand the last question.

The cables you provided for the temperature sensors are auxiliary cables. The type you plug into your ipod to listen to music. A 3mm jack. How is a temperature reading sent through that?! (I'm in shock cause I didn't know there were other uses for the damn thing! :tup: )

-The fan blades are symmetrical. If I were to flip the blade over, it would be in the same exact position. Also, There isn't a way to open up the fan without breaking it.
 
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HolyCrapItsFast

Drinks beer!
The cables you provided for the temperature sensors are auxiliary cables. The type you plug into your ipod to listen to music. A 3mm jack. How is a temperature reading sent through that?! (I'm in shock cause I didn't know there were other uses for the damn thing! :tup: )

-The fan blades are symmetrical. If I were to flip the blade over, it would be in the same exact position. Also, There isn't a way to open up the fan without breaking it.

It is just a wire so it can be used for any electrical signal transmission you can dream up. The reason I chose the audio cable is because it is shielded and is ideally suited for low frequency signal transmission.

Look closer at the fan blade... It has a curved profile to it. To turn it around you need to remove the fan from the intercooler to reveal the nut that secures the fan to the shaft of the motor. Remove this nut and flip the fan blade over.
 

Batmobile_Engage

Squirrel Meat Aficionado.
Staff member
The reason I chose the audio cable is because it is shielded and is ideally suited for low frequency signal transmission.

Good call, George. You don't want any EMC/EMI problems screwing with the signals.
 
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