TMIC fan mod Q&A

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Good call, George. You don't want any EMC/EMI problems screwing with the signals.

It is probably overkill but to be honest I don't know what the max cable length is for the TMP36 temp sensors. Better safe than sorry so I figured a shielded cable would let me at least run them 12 feet. I'm so anal you would think I was building a space shuttle.

The readings are very stable but there is a voltage drop because it is one full degree less with the cable versus without. I can live with that. It is not a precise instrument.

I am making another arduino project for my AWIC setup. It is going to be an I/C efficiency monitor and a heat exchanger thermal energy flow meter. For that I will require very precise reading so I will be coding some calibration factors to compensate for cable length.

 

[Batmobile_Engage]

Jeeeez...you're getting really deep into this.

 

[Alin]

Can't wait to see that and read into it once the time comes! :tup:

 

[Alin]

[MENTION=9]HolyCrapItsFast[/MENTION]

So, after some driving and monitoring the fans, I have been thinking. If you ever do this again, I would suggest two things:

1) Instead of fan 1 turning on at 100*, make it 95*. Reason being is that 98/99* always bounces back and forth to 100.3* and the fan continuously starts and stops. This is at a standstill or very low speed.

2) Have both fans on at all times when the car is going 25 MPH or LESS and only one fan from 25-40 MPH. So, once the car is going 41+ MPH, the fans stop. Reason being is that these temperatures are retarded! They climb and decrease so rapidly that it's mind boggling! Another tweak with this suggestion is to have another switch as a cutoff as you obviously won't need the fans on if you're constantly going 40 MPH or so.

I'm not sure how you created the system, but since it can connect to a computer of some sort to adjust the settings, how difficult is it for you to tweak it? I'm not saying it's not great as it is (it's quite phenomenal!), but for future references! :tup:

 

[Spamby]

You could add a switch to disable the fans at will when you don't need them.

 

[Alin]

You could add a switch to disable the fans at will when you don't need them.

Are you referring to something along the lines of a custom kill switch tapped into the main power output wire?

It works perfectly fine as it is now, just food for thought. :tup:

I will take a video for you guys one of these upcoming days. Hopefully tomorrow after I wrap the downpipe. These past few days, I have been cruising and not giving a damn about anything else! :rofl:

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

It can be adjusted with little difficulty. I figured it would need adjusting because I pulled those number out of my ass. :lol: What I need to do, after reading this, is not adjust the 100* but in corporate a hysteresis so that the fan comes on at 100 but doesn't shut off until it comes down to something like 97*. This way the fans won't bounce when the temperature is on the threshold.

Incorporating speed sensitivity into the thing is quite a different story. It requires that I monitor the OBDII port and I'm not quite there yet with regards to skill level.

Besides it should be temperature triggered regardless of speed IMO.

If you need me to make adjustments you need to send the main unit back to me, I will add the hysteresis at that point also. Let me know what temperatures you think things should happen at.

 

[Alin]

It can be adjusted with little difficulty. I figured it would need adjusting because I pulled those number out of my ass. :lol: What I need to do, after reading this, is not adjust the 100* but in corporate a hysteresis so that the fan comes on at 100 but doesn't shut off until it comes down to something like 97*. This way the fans won't bounce when the temperature is on the threshold.

Incorporating speed sensitivity into the thing is quite a different story. It requires that I monitor the OBDII port and I'm not quite there yet with regards to skill level.

Besides it should be temperature triggered regardless of speed IMO.

If you need me to make adjustments you need to send the main unit back to me, I will add the hysteresis at that point also. Let me know what temperatures you think things should happen at.

Ok, let me play around some more and see what a good conclusion would be.

Also, check. this. shit. out!!!!!!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q247/WReXd/wrx008.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q247/WReXd/wrx009.jpg

Who needs a clock?!!?

How difficult would it be to either:
1) make another display
2) move the current display to the clock gauge.

 

[IGOTASTi]

OH SO SEXY!

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Ok, let me play around some more and see what a good conclusion would be.

Also, check. this. shit. out!!!!!!


http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q247/WReXd/wrx008.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q247/WReXd/wrx009.jpg

Who needs a clock?!!?

How difficult would it be to either:
1) make another display
2) move the current display to the clock gauge.

Mhe!... That can't hold a candle to this one... I had to move my gauges to where the HVAC controls where.

 

[Alin]

WHATTTTTTTTTTT!!!!! Dude, that is so sick and such a good use for that useless clock.....

How hard would it be for me to put the display in that spot?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

WHATTTTTTTTTTT!!!!! Dude, that is so sick and such a good use for that useless clock.....

How hard would it be for me to put the display in that spot?

Probably not very hard at all. you have to be careful taking it out of the housing it's in now but I don't see any issues

 

[Alin]

Probably not very hard at all. you have to be careful taking it out of the housing it's in now but I don't see any issues

I don't want to mess with it just yet since I don't know how it is inside the housing right now. How are you supposed to attach the display to the clock gauge?

Another thought I had was to move it in place of the passenger vent on the center console. I could redirect the flow of air to the left vent and then use the right vent as a holder for a cleaner look. However, I'm not sure if it will fit.

 

[Alin]

Ill update this after i take a shower with pictures and more info. But in the meantime.... I am so dumbfounded by this heatwrap.... Remember when i said ill laugh if i can touch the downpipe with my barehand after its wrapped? Well i laughed pretty damn hard! :lol:

Just wow is all i can say. Stay tuned for the complete post update.
[MENTION=1507]Spamby[/MENTION] hurry up with those downpipe and turbo blankets!!!

 

[Spamby]

I know. Sorry for the delays. It's a bitch with a laundry list of to dos. It's a real pita to try to do this on your daily driver.
If I can just get someone's unwanted aftermarket DP and pile o shit turbo I'd be in business. Too bad everyone thinks their old stuff is a gold mine.

 

[Alin]

Ok, so let's begin with the ugly looking downpipe off the car first.


@HolyCrapItsFast here is the location of the where you told me to place the AFR O2 sensor! Apparently, we have gotten optimum results! :tup:

Next, let's wrap the downpipe and then keep the wrap tight on with the heat resistant metal ties. Both the heat wrap and the metal ties are rated for up to 1800* on contact and 2200* from radiant heat.



Also, @HolyCrapItsFast , sometime in the past 10 months, I ultimately got the infamous IWG crack.... Just saw it now since the downpipe was off. We tuned it as it is, so what does this mean? I have a holy turbo that still shines through the battle scars?! :lol:



In this picture, you can see where the second temperature sensor is located. directly in between the TMIC and turbo.



And finally, some results!!!!!! Now, these numbers are 15 minutes of idle from a cold start and a few revs to 3k rpm. The numbers before used to be: Sensor 1: ~125* Sensor 2: ~135* Sensor one is located between the battery and the strut tower. We have identified that sensor 1 is going to be the under the hood temperature and sensor 2 is the heatsoak onto the TMIC. Now, check these numbers out!!!



Can't believe that I haven't done this sooner! I am able to keep my hand about 1 centimeter away from the downpipe and continuously tap it with my bare hand! Before, with just the downpipe alone, I wasn't able to get any closer than 4-5 inches from it. There is more heat coming from the turbo than the downpipe now. It's ludicrous! :lol: So now, @Spamby needs to tell us how we can help him so we can get those DIY downpipe and turbo blankets!

I will go for a joyride later on and see after some prolonged driving how the temperatures are. :tup:

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Ok, so let's begin with the ugly looking downpipe off the car first.


@HolyCrapItsFast here is the location of the where you told me to place the AFR O2 sensor! Apparently, we have gotten optimum results! :tup:

Next, let's wrap the downpipe and then keep the wrap tight on with the heat resistant metal ties. Both the heat wrap and the metal ties are rated for up to 1800* on contact and 2200* from radiant heat.



Also, @HolyCrapItsFast , sometime in the past 10 months, I ultimately got the infamous IWG crack.... Just saw it now since the downpipe was off. We tuned it as it is, so what does this mean? I have a holy turbo that still shines through the battle scars?! :lol:



In this picture, you can see where the second temperature sensor is located. directly in between the TMIC and turbo.



And finally, some results!!!!!! Now, these numbers are 15 minutes of idle from a cold start and a few revs to 3k rpm. The numbers before used to be: Sensor 1: ~125* Sensor 2: ~135* Sensor one is located between the battery and the strut tower. We have identified that sensor 1 is going to be the under the hood temperature and sensor 2 is the heatsoak onto the TMIC. Now, check these numbers out!!!



Can't believe that I haven't done this sooner! I am able to keep my hand about 1 centimeter away from the downpipe and continuously tap it with my bare hand! Before, with just the downpipe alone, I wasn't able to get any closer than 4-5 inches from it. There is more heat coming from the turbo than the downpipe now. It's ludicrous! :lol: So now, @Spamby needs to tell us how we can help him so we can get those DIY downpipe and turbo blankets!

I will go for a joyride later on and see after some prolonged driving how the temperatures are. :tup:

The results look good!

I think it's time for a new turbo. The crack is only going to get worse.

 

[Alin]

The results look good!

I think it's time for a new turbo. The crack is only going to get worse.

What are side effects of the crack?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Low or erratic boost and the crack has propagated to the turbine so it is a matter of time you will likely see catastrophic failure

 

[Alin]

Low or erratic boost and the crack has propagated to the turbine so it is a matter of time you will likely see catastrophic failure

Hmmmm, I'm reading now and there seem to be people with cracks far worse than mine. They are still running the turbo without issue. So is this pretty much a gamble then? Either it's going to go or nothing will arise?