Mike Schear - If it's .5v with the car off, the battery is toast, especially if it won't take a charge from the alternator. When the alternator is running, it should show ~14v, with the alternator off, it should be ~12v. Sounds like the alternator is putting out a charge, but the battery has a cracked cell.
Here's the latest anyways...The second I take the negative away to car dies. The battery even after running for 20 minutes puts out like .5 volts. My next guess is I fried the wire from the alternator to my fuse box? If I get a new battery, sure it will start up...but how long is the battery going to last. My buddy Mikey thinks it's the battery at all costs given the symptoms.
So here we go with a brand new Optima Yellow Top.
What I know:
- New battery
- Alternator tested out.
- Battery was 84% when I started the car
- I know there is still a problem
What I can't figure out:
- Where the problem exists.
- Why the alternator isn't charging the battery?
- Why I still own this car.
Basically I know there is still a problem. After a 25 mile drip/RIP the battery registered 11.5V instead of 12V. I have to only assume that the 12v from the alternator is fried somehow or I just simply have a shitty ground somewhere?
One big question is...if I get a ground kit - will that be a lazy way to potentially fix the problem so that I can enjoy the car until I have the harness tested or something?:rofl: