TD_D mod journey. From stock to the 'bastardmobile'

[SSJBaku]

out of curiosity what is your reason for choosing the kelfords over the gsc or cosworth cams

 

[SSJBaku]

i really like the results ive seen out of the rotated HTA3586 from FP, also using a rotated intake manifold to minimize piping

 

[Td_d]

Good reputation, shop has tuned plenty of them with great results, and an aggressive yet streetable profile in terms of lift and duration.

 

[SSJBaku]

If I keep my AVCS, I'd choose kelford S2 cams over everything else. I've seen a cosworth cam snapped in two and GSC has been known to sell ground castings that were out of tolerance fitment wise... IE the lobes are off center.

i had never heard that i appreciate the information

 

[SSJBaku]

Now I just need to download access race to get with the picture on tuning with the rest of ya

 

[Td_d]

Hmm.. The thread on the meth insert on the tip of my intercooler stripped. The nozzle itself is still threaded fine, but the thread on the intercooler not good. What are my options?

 

[Td_d]

Yeah, looks like Wurth inserts are the best option for me locally.

 

[Td_d]

Any recommendations for a replacement fuel damper and regulator kit? I'm still convinced that the FPR is at least in part a culprit in the problematic part throttle fueling I have to tune out so meticulously...

 

[Td_d]

I've been looking at the AEMs - looks like they have a good reputation. My rails are already upgraded, as well as the injectors - but, yes - I'd be interested to have a look at the layout, thanks.

 

[Td_d]

Aha... always check for the obvious - I think something up with the battery or alternator, which is leading to the idle / engine breaking hesitation.

After reading up about injector latencies again, I wanted to just test some margin above / and below my current latency setting, and lo and behold, my battery voltage at idle is between 12v and 12.4v, and only climbs up to 13.6v when the fans kick on, and goes back down to 12v when they switch off.

12v seems way too low for idle - shot battery? I would think that between 13.5v to 14v would be normal idle voltage?

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

Battery at idle should be between 13.2 and 14v depending on what you have running. typical is between 13.5 and 13.8

yours is to low.

 

[Td_d]

Yup... And that was without lights, ac radio - anything! Only bumped up when fans kicked on, which I would assume would kick the alternator up a notch, hence the higher voltage.

I think this finally explains all the weird idle / engine braking issues - latencies (amongst other tables) are already in a completely different cell compared to the 14v.

So obvious, yet so elusive...

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

But now this begs the question... What is wrong with the charging system... Alternator? Battery? Grounding?

 

[Td_d]

Yeah - the funny thing is that it cranks over just fine - and the battery is not really old - about a year. First thing I'm going to check is grounds.

 

[Td_d]

Exactly what I did - cleaned the terminals, and checked out the grounds, found a couple a little loose. Tightened everything up, started her up, boom, voltage at idle between 13.6 and 13.8v. Haven't driven her yet, but I'm betting it will make a difference.

I could quite easily swing past a battery spot and get it looked at, might do so just as a precaution.

 

[Td_d]

Ah well, on leave for 3 weeks, away from my scoob. Should come back refreshed!

 

[HolyCrapItsFast]

It is always good to step back sometimes... Hope you enjoy your time off!

 

[Td_d]

Thanks George, and yeah - a little distance from the car every once in a while is quite healthy!

 

[Td_d]

Thanks Fuji, you too.

 

[toomes]

this is almost exactly what happened to me, I had to clean all of the grounds on the intake manifold and i also cleaned the inside of the terminal connectors since mine blew the main fuse, it left a residue.